Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Locking Fuel Cap Replacement?
Apr 6, 2017
With how touchy our diesel fuel system is to any contaminates...what locking cap will replace the OEM fuel cap? Also, looking for a locking DEF cap? Looking for caps for a 2016.
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My 2005 F-250 does not have power when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up then it seems fine. I believe that the fuel injectors need replacement. I was told that one cannot get new injectors. They are all re-manufactured. Is this correct?
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I may have to replace fuel injector #8 on my 2004 6.0. Aside from doing brakes and rotors, I don't have any experience working on my truck.
Side note- this is the second injector to go bad in the past few months. Ford also wanted to replace the HFCM, so I'll be doing that as well.
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I posted about my steering issue and i went ahead and did the gear box and now on to the ujoints ...
HUB LOCK ASSEMBLY is in 2 i started to gently pry it out with a flat head in a star figure while jiggling and pulling the whole unit with my other hand well ...
The cover plate separated from the rest of the lock and I am lost ...
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I got new auto-locking hubs. The updated ones. As I proceeded to replace them, I pulled out old ones and when driver side came out, there was like 1/2 ounce of water that flowed out from where the auto-locking hub would sit. Strange. I had changed out lines, vacuum pump, vacuum solenoid and reservoir. All new and dry. I blasted both sides down with brake cleaner to clean off old grease, let dry and installed new auto hubs. So far so good. Will test the ESOF feature another time. I was wondering where this water would come from? Other side of wheel hubs are dry.
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I don't think it's possible but is there any way to stop this message from popping up in the info centre Every Single Time I exceed 30kmh while the locking diff is engaged? It's winter here on the Canadian prairies and roads are generally snow and ice covered where at live. Makes driving in town really annoying. On My '11 SD I only had to clear it once per drive cycle.
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I'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
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So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
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I have a 04 F250 6.0 and change transmission and transfer case. Now all of a sudden the rear passenger tire is locking up but the rear driver side still moves. I've dropped the carrier and the ring and pinion looks great and so does the spider gears ... Need on whole new rear....
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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Just notice this in the manual page 302 The vehicle should not be driven in 4x4 high or low with the lock hubs set to auto as this condition may damage driveline system components.
Page 303 It then goes on to say !!
Automatic operation of the hub locks is recommended and will increase fuel economy.
when using 4x4 once in awhile LOCK or AUTO
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I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
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I have a 2006 F250 c/c LB and I am curious, how much fuel is left in the tank when the low fuel light comes on?
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For the last four months my 04 F350 has been having the same problem every now and then. Cruising down the highway at a decent speed and the fuel pedal/fuel shuts off. Only lasts seconds then re-engages. Two lights come on. Low fuel and water in fuel. I changed the internal fuel pump last week and it did it again tonight. The truck runs great otherwise except for an occasional death shake while stopped at a light. No codes came up and FICM is at 54.
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Changed fuel filters today. Now my water in fuel light is coming on. But the truck is not running any different no sputtering or anything. ????? Could this be human error
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I have a very slow fuel drip off the housing for the fuel filter on the engine. Can't see where it's coming from. It started sometime after I changed the filter a couple of months ago.
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When replacing the power steering pump on my 2006 should I go OEM on the pump or save some money and get a Napa or aftermarket remaned unit with the pulley installed? Also, whar is the fluid capacity of the power steering system?
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269k on a 04 6.0, in the rust belt, oil pan is needing replaced according to the tech. It looks rusty for sure. 1300+ to change it. I understand you have to lift the engine some to replace. Engine is stock, are there any aftermarket pan's worth looking at if I'm going to replace it?
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My low-beams are very dim and I am looking to replace them before an upcoming cross country trip. Question: what headlights do I have here, and what low-beam bulb do I need to order to get some more brightness?
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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What it is or why there is a three inch pull handle hanging down on the bottom of the Diesel Tank on my niece new 2012 F350??? It is sitting hanging there begging to be snagged and ripped off the bottom of the tank!!!!! I'm at least going to Gorilla Tape it up to the bottom of the Tank.
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