Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Leaking Cooler Lines At Turbo?
Dec 1, 2016
I am experiencing leaking cooler lines at the turbo. I thought it was only the line coming from the side of the turbo, but it looks like it could be the one going into the top. Can I safely remove the line from the front of the engine without interfering with the other metal lines directly in front of it. See the pic. This is the front of the engine under the turbo.
Also, the fitting in the pictures is not leaking. Can I replace the metal line without replacing the threaded connector going into the engine or does it have to be replaced with the line? I already have parts BC3Z-6A968-C and BC3Z-9U469-A for the line coming out of the side. What is the part #s for the other line pictured?
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06 6.0 How do I remove the trans cooler lines from under the truck? I've got the lines hanging free they're unscrewed from the transmission and trans filter but I can't seem to snake them out to replace them. How is this accomplished?
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Can I change these out to hydraulic hoses with clamps that are rated for the fluid. Mine are rusted and starting to leak.
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So I'm about to do the oil and EGR coolers on my 6.0. At one point, or currently, my EGR cooler was leaking, so I've got that gooey residue in the intake, at least around the EGR valve. No dry carbon residue. I wondering what is the best way to clean the intake out, if at all. I have to assume there's some clogging in there, especially since I've had the P0401 code for a while. I just wanted to get this done right once, so I'm not coming back to it again any time soon....
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Would there be much oil in the down pipe if the oil deal was leaking on the turbo? I broke it loose to look at it and not much there, one small area that looked like it has had on it..
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I've been getting some grayish/blueish smoke on cold starts lately and decided to do some investigation to see if there was a problem or just the cold temps.
I googled it and turbo oil seal problem was pretty common so I figured it was easiest to start there. I removed the pipe between turbo and CAC and it had quite a bit of oil it in. The pipe after the CAC had a fair amount as well. I checked the oil level in the engine and it was slightly down but I can't say how accurate the dipstick is nor it was completely full after the last oil change. Either way, not much oil is entering the intake but I would assume any is too much.
Here's my main concern - What's the likelihood of getting a runaway from this?? Is it possible for the oil seal to fail 'more' than it already has putting more oil in the intake allowing for a runaway condition?
Obviously the turbo needs replaced but is it safe to run it the way it is until it completely fails or replace immediately?
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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I have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
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I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
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I've had my early 99 f350 7.3L for a lil while now. Starting to see few problems surfacing. while doing my weekly fluid levels found oil in coolant and after looking around found oil covering bottom of driver side engine. As far as i can see it looks like oil cooler leaking from front side.. Should i just replace oil cooler or rebuild?
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What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
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Just found out that my EGR cooler is bad. How big of a job is this/how much down time if a compatent tech is doin the job?
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So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
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I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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My 2011 has 62k miles and has been throwing P0401 codes, which results in losing power. I assume the EGR cooler is clogged. So I went to the dealership to see if it's covered, and was told there's no warranty coverage.
I would rather blockoff the EGR cooler than repair it. I would also like the extra performance from a tuner like the MiniMaxx. I do prefer the stock exhaust and not real excited about the drone/smell that comes with deleted DPF.
Will I have issues if it's tuned with the EGR blocked off, and stock exhaust? Or am I better off doing a full delete at this point?
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Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
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