Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Leaking - Oil Spray Going Down The Center Of Truck
Aug 5, 2015
So I just changed the oil on my truck I had a ford motorcraft filter on there and replaced it with a Fram filter ( only because that's what was on the shelf at the big W store ) I drove it to town and back once ( 35 miles round trip ) ...
I was going to add a trickle charger to my truck as It will be sitting for a while and I was laying under the front of the truck trying to fish the power cord down and I looked back and see I had Oil spray going down the center of my truck . So I thought dam my filters not tight as when I looked at it , had oil streaks coming down it. So I checked it was tight , would not move.
So I wiped if off with a rag and it looks to me as if the filter is leaking at the top seam . were the filter is crimped . There's not way I can take it off and take it back to the store. a filter that is oil soaked . I am going to replace it but before I do I am going to see if I can get the leak on video
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I am towing my 5th wheel RV trailer and just started out on my journey. I've driven 350 miles. I stopped for a breather for about two hours. Now my truck won't start and a low oil pressure indicator beeps in the message center. My truck is a 2011 F250 super duty 6.7ltre diesel. Recently had oil change and fuel filter change.....
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I have a 2004 Ford F350 6.0. It is leaking diesel from the front of the engine to the ground. I have a video of this and pictures as well but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. What I can do??Puddle after about 20 min of running.
Dripping from here, left of hose....
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2011 ford f350, 200,000 miles. I was getting an antifreeze spray on the windshield while pulling and going up a hill. It was from exhaust pressure going into the coolant system. It was building over 16 psi and blowing out the degas bottle.
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Okay so 2007 F350 DWR here, I have a driver who hauls loads using the truck and a 25' gooseneck trailer. She's gone through the bullet proofing process at 80K miles, she now has 128K miles. I have a programmer to monitor temps, and do all required maintenance.
With that said, my driver reported last week that when under load and going up hills he got the white spray coming out from under the hood. See pics below, this is never really good of course but I want to believe its not catastrophic. Two weeks prior I changed out the thermostat and upper radiator hose and of course flushed and filled coolant, all was good - no hoses were loose, etc. Driver reports the truck did not overheat at any time.
Both ECT and EOT are within 10-12 degrees of each other, and did not go over 190 for me while driving around town the other day. There are no codes present, I cleaned the engine bay and drove and re-inspected but can't tell where the coolant is coming from as none appears to be leaking. Last note, I have to admit after driving for a day or two I had to fill the degas bottle up about 3/4 gallon of water. My questions is, what is the next step for me in the diagnostic process?
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Got a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
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I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
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Have a rattle of the latch on their center console door? For the last few weeks I've had the rattle I thought was the cup holders but, today I found the culprit. Its the latch hook, the part that locks into the center console. Its somewhat loose. Every time it rattles and my wife is in the car she gives me that look.
How to open the latch cover? I don't see any screws and I really don't want to experiment on a new truck. I have to take it to the dealer to fix the reverse camera but I haven't had much luck with Ford dealers addressing rattles.
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What is the secret to getting the rear center caps off a Dually Without scratching the hell out of them with the tire tool?
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Convert center console to a refrigerator? Seems like a pretty easy thing to do if you could find a 12v cooling element sold separately outside one of those portable 12v refrigerators. I've seen the OEM Ford kits to turn the console into a cooler by using ice, but I'd like to be able to cool via a 12v cooling element instead.
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A couple of weeks ago, had a weird thing happen. When turning left at slow speed there was a click sound that came from the upper part of the steering column (similar to the sound you got with the indicators on in the old super duties when turning and it would go over the clockspring). It hasn't repeated the noise since.
Anyways, a week or so after this, I happened to try to use the buttons for my message center to reset my odo, which I rarely use. Didn't work. In fact all of the 5 buttons associated with the message center on the left side of my steering wheel are not working, but the cruise control buttons are. The buttons on the right side of the steering wheel are also working fine.
I am not sure if the noise in the steering column is related (but it has me suspicious...), or just coincidental, but wondered on peoples thoughts to diagnose. I pulled off the cover over the steering column, all the wires in and out of the clock spring look fine, I haven't pulled the switch yet (need to look at the service manual to make sure I don't break it as I do it), but wanted to see what was the diagnosis.
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Dealer forgot to reset oil life warning oil change. I cleared it in the "settings" but then "oil filter" and "fuel filter" warnings came in and won't clear. How do I get rid of them?
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I called my servicing dealer and he was unaware of the message or how to check/test this. He also did not think it was a warranty issue.
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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I have a 04 F250 6.0L ,The center bolt that holds the a/c clutch to the compressor. I'm assuming that bolt needs to be tight, correct? Mine was loose when I looked at it last night. My a/c squeals for a while trying to engage. Also, is that bolt right or left hand threads? Can that clutch be replaced without removing the compressor?
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It appears the spring that keeps pressure on the handle has broken, now the console lid won't stay latched.
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Just started to get a vibration in the last couple days. When giving it fuel there is no problem. when i let off the fuel it begins to have a slight vibration as it slows. even does it if i pop it into neutral. took it for a ride last night when i noticed it. wife sayed been going on for a few days. after just a 6 mile ride i crawled under and tried to check the joint but when i stopped i was not on level ground so have tension on the shaft but did notice that the rear joint was warm after just that short of a drive. not hot just warm compared to the other 2. it is a 2004 F250 SD 6.0DSL 4X4
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Turns out I've lost nearly all of the coolant from my secondary cooling system and am trying to diagnose the problem.
Things I noticed:
-All of the hoses appear to be in good condition.
-Coolant is dripping from the center of the engine bay.
-After inspecting the turbo area, it appears the valley below the turbo is wet.
The intake manifold is still on the truck, so I haven't been able to get a better look. Is there anything else near the area I am describing that has coolant? My guess is the turbo water inlet?
Perhaps this : Coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel - YouTube...
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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The steering on my truck has become a little heavy after making a turn and bringing the steering wheel back to center. The steering feels heavy like I had a front tire half way down. There's a lot of drag then once on center it's gone. Could it be the beginning of the end for my ball joints?
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