Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Knocking Sound Noticeable On Driver Side Towards The Back Of Engine
Apr 4, 2016
I have a 2014 Superduty with 41000 km on it. I was driving in a remote area yesterday about 53 km from pavement. I stopped for a break and had a very noticeable knocking sound that was more noticeable on the drivers side towards the back of the engine. I had no choice but to keep driving it. the truck ran perfectly fine for the 4 hour trip home(1 hour on gravel and 3 hours on highway) when I stopped a couple of times after that there was definitely no knocking sound an it is not there today, what this could have been? like I said the knocking was so noticeable that you couldn't miss it...
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I have a new 04 F350 with only 2300 miles on it. Every once in awhile, I will get a sound coming from under the driver side of the vehicle engine compartment that sounds like back pressure being released. It happens when I am up around 2000 or more rpms and let off of the accelerator. I am gonna take the truck into the shop the first of next week just to get it checked but thought I would ask here first. It only happens when i am above 2000 rpms though.
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I have an air leak sound coming from I believe the driver side. Sounds like an air line from a compressor leaking. Could see anything obvious last night or hear well over engine. When driving it's pushing more air. Nothing looked/felt loose. Didn't find any air blowing were I could stick my hand in a hot engine. Doesn't seem to have performance issue, maybe a little more turbo delay.
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My truck is running fine but it sounds like there is an air leak on the drivers side of the truck. When it first happened I was passing a car and it sounded like a vacuum hose come loose. It made a loud hissing sound. Now I have come to the conclusion it must be associated with the turbo. I don't hear the hiss unless I get into the truck and the turbo starts making boost. The more boost is made the louder the hissing sound is.
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I'm having a squeak/rattle type sound coming from my front drivers side wheel (more rattle). It only happens when I go over a quick bump and happens going straight and while turning. 2012 f250. 87k miles. 4x4. I have a two inch block level (southern truck) up front..
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I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
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I have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
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So I started my truck this morning and it sounds like air rushing out from the driver side of the engine. I currently have my ICP unplugged due to a bad sensor, will be replacing it on Sat. Also I have been having an issue with my turbo but I don't think that it's related as I here the air rushing sound when at idle as well at when driving. It seems to be a bit louder when the engine is cold but I could also be crazy about that.
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it's now 1,500 miles away on the side of the road.White smoke, knocking and lost power. Truck has 133,000 reman engine installed at 46,000. Is it common for hydro locking to bend a rod? He sent a video and it def sounds like a rod and degas is empty.
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My ford f250 i have a intermittent knocking sound when i turn the ac/ heater? it is not all the time and can never tell when it is going to happen. i always think the worse like it is a cylinder or something.
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So I am owning my first diesel so I am still getting use to it. Shortly after I bought it, I had to make my 900 mile drive to work and it ran great. After being here for a week or so I noticed heavy white smoke bit thought it had to do with the -5- -10. And haven't seen the white smoke since the weather warmed up. Since then I have noticed a "knocking" sound that to me sounded like a rod that I didn't notice before. After reading through these forums, it sounds like I probably have a cracked injector. I have had no engine light or anything. So my question is, can an injector fail or be cracked without an engine light and can a code reader detect which one it is with no light on?
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So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
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On way way to Florida and got 5 hours away and after the truck ran flawlessly for 5 hours it all of a sudden started billowing smoke, lots of knocking, and died. Now the engine won't turn over, tries to but acts like it's stuck. No codes...Accidentally crushed the cord on my CTS so no way to read codes. Just did studs and injectors
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My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
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I posted many months ago about a problem I had while towing. This weekend I towed about 5,000 lbs, bumper pull with no load distribution, for about 600 miles. The truck did well except for the steering shake I noticed at 75 mph. The road was smooth, all interstate, but it did go away when traveling about 70 mph. I've had the tires road force balanced, two alignments and it's stock with 20 inch BFG's AT (2012 Laria 4 door, 4x4, diesel). I'm running 65 psi with a dual steering stabilizer from pro comp and all four shocks pro comp as well. Could it be the casters or anything similar?
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I have a family member that has a stock 2016 6.7 Auto F350 XL DRW that is less than a year old, has 85k on it and is developing an oil leak on the drivers side of the engine. What are the possible culprits and any pictures that I can forward to him of those places.
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Is there a way to program all four doors to unlock when the truck stops? The driver's side unlocks but the other doors do not. This is annoying, but I can't seem to find anything about how to accomplish the auto unlock...
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so i cant quite tell where its coming from, but here is a picture. it seems to be coming from just even with the drivers side exhaust manifold towards the back. from what i can see the top valley looks clean. it seems to only leak while its running. and it leaks quite a lot. its close to the bell housing so im guessing a rear main but i don't know. i hope its not!
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I would like to replace my drivers side window. It has some deep scratches and with the windows tinted it really shows. Been looking for place to buy from but can't seem to find one.
The only one I found was on Amazon but was trying to find one cheaper or with no shipping charge.
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Drivers side headlight is very dim or not even working with new bulbs. Occasionally it will come on. High beam light is always very dim until you click high beams then its bright blue
Short?
Bad switch??
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Today I went to my trusted mechanic to find out what is making a knocking sound in the rear on my 07 Camry LE. He told me that this part [URL] ... is loose and I need to replace a rubber piece. I believe this is a stabilizer? I want to try to do this myself. How would I go about fixing this?
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