Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Jerks When Shifting From 2 To 1 While Slowing Down
May 7, 2015
Trans has new solenoids in the trans but is shifting too firm sometimes from 1-2 or 2-3.. It is tolerable going up, but when slowing down it jerks really bad from 2-1. Sounds and feels horrible for the trans and miserable during stop and go traffic. Ive had to switch it to Manual and start off in 2nd gear. Im deleted, with intake, and a custom sct x4 tune. My main question is there any way a new tune could have better shift points?
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I have a 2004 F250 early build over 260K miles on it. After taking a trip out west Texas and back I noticed my truck starts to jerk a lot around the 50 to 60 mph range under moderate throttle. Getting a contribution code on #6. FICM voltage stays over 47v during KOEO and startup. Took an inferred thermometer and even after truck is at operating temp #6 is reading about 3 degrees cooler then the others.
When cranking the engine everything sounds smooth but startups are getting harder. Usually let it idle for a few minutes before taking off on cold start but I am having to let it warm up longer before I can get any power. Did a bubble test and passed and oil level hasnt changed. Fuel mileage has been sucking bad also. Safe to assume the injector is shot and needs replaced? Use Delo 5W-40 Syn every change with motorcraft filters.
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When I'm speeding up or slowing down, right at about 37mph every time my front end starts bouncing and it's annoying. It's by no means severe, I just don't like it. I don't think it's as bad as what a lot of you are experiencing with the death wobble? Maybe it's just starting and will get worse?
Also, I'm experiencing a clicking noise almost as if something is loose under the front end when I hit bumps in the road or off road.. Not sure what that could be
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So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
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Last week my 2011 KR Diesel with 85k on it stopped downshifting correctly. Basically when the transmission is cold (<150 degrees on the digital gauge for transmission fluid) it jerks everytime it shifts down from 4->3->2->1. Especially 3->2 and 2->1. I have never seen anything like this before. It's almost if you are getting reared ended when it shifts.
If I let it warm up it eventually goes away until it cools down again. I did take into the dealer and they said that a) there is definitely something wrong with the torque converter and b) I might actually need a new transmission which is anywhere between 4-7k depending on if its a reman or new.
This truck is barely broken in and I at this point have not towed a single thing with it. I had thought the transmission was covered up to 100k but it looks like it's only covered to 60 or 75k (I forgot which).
I've opened up a case with Ford but they kicked it back to the dealer. The dealer service manager has been really NICE and is definitely on my side that this SHOULD HAVE NEVER HAPPENED at this mileage. They also don't know how to fix it without pulling apart everything which is a lot of labor.
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,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.
Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.
I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.
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I just got a 2006 ford F250 lariat fx4,and it's already at the shop.. when cold start it has some white smoke, but once I get up to highway speeds the truck jerks and bucks. turbo is putting out normal boost. I've changed oil and filters along with fuel filters. also put on a new serpentine belt and pulley, air filter and have everything cleaned real good. the truck is acting like it's starving for fuel. FICM or injectors ?
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When I'm at 60 mph and go full throttle, it doesn't seem to down shift enough and the torque seems low. But when I go 1/2-3/4 throttle, I get the power I'm looking for. I'll test it later today and see what gear it shifts to with both.
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2003 F250 6.0 ESOF - 4x4 and LOW lights on, TC not shifting
About the truck: 2003 F250 CCLB 6.0L 210k Miles
Heavy Duty Bulletproof Diesel Kit
Warn Front Manual Hubs (vac lines clamped/blocked)
Transfer Case Shift Motor/TCSM is off (I personally have not tested it and am still looking for what to test on it) or I will purchase a new one.
From seller: "What happened is, I accidently put it in 4x4 and when I turned the switch it would not go out. I had to limp it home slowly. When I got home I messed around with it, and could not get it to go back into 2x4. I removed the shift motor, and tested it. It tested ok. I shifted to back to 2x4 with a wrench and left it."
CURRENTLY the TCSM is off the transfer case and is in 2WD. Warn hubs are set to "FREE," seller also noted that this is how he has been driving it for quite sometime. TCSM is in 4x4 LOW, that is what I have to manually shift the transfer case to if I want to mount it up. I have been shifting it using a 14mm open end wrench and with the transmission in neutral. I have not tried turning the TCSM position manually.
Scanning using AE brings up different codes depending on transmission position and which scan is used:
P1812 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Circuit Failure
P1819 Transmission Neutral Safety Switch Short Circuit To Ground
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1876 Transfer Case 2 Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1865 Transfer Case Contact Plate Power Short to Ground
AE scanning for DTCs: P1832 and P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in PARK: P1812, P1832, P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in NEUTRAL: P1812, P1819, P1876
AE scanning with TCSM off: P1865, P1832, P1876
P1865 seems to be solved by simply installing the TCSM.
AE Live Data shows correct indicators for 4WD switch, showing corresponding drive mode in AE as the switch setting but nothing happens. No clunk/thud/movement. I have tried resetting the codes but the 4x4 and LOW lights both stay on. I tried it in park, neutral, engine off and engine on. I tried driving 5-10 mph to relieve any driveline wind up, I tried driving in reverse with front hubs free and locked, gave the same results in AE and no transfer case shifting.
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I
Found a thread with some fuses to check, I have checked fuses #19, 27, 31, 33, 34, 45 and 111 (with a multimeter for continuity),
Relays (first swapping the old ones, then trying new ones), I did the pinpoints from test I, and installed another GEM (same part number as mine but from a 2005 F-350)
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I led to my purchase of a used GEM, not knowing if it is good or bad, I have determined that I get the exact same codes for each AE Scan as the GEM that came with my truck.
I included a photo of my relay box, have any of you seen this type before? There is no other box in the engine bay with twin relays.
Air/Defrost switch works and routes air to switch setting. AC works, DEFROST works.
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
I want to avoid taking this to the dealer if their own service manual and diagnosis is going to have the same results as my testing.
Where do I go from here?
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
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So I took the wife to the pumpkin farm today, and was we were pulling into the grass/mud parking lot, my tires just started spinning. I stopped because I wasn't going anywhere and I turned my truck to go into 4x4(SOTF) and it made this LOUD clunk and then went into 4x4. Everything is ok and I tried it 4-5 after that to see if it would keep making that noise and it did not.
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i bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
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I was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
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In my 2011 F-250, 6.7, auto....it seems that at certain times went the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd and I pause with acceleration, for some reason the tranny seems to go into a slip mode and then slams into 3rd. Now I read about 8 months ago that there was a computer upgrade via Ford. Which they did when I was having some work done on the truck at the dealership.
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Just bought 2 new F-350 with 6.7s for a service truck and feed truck. I have a 2011 6.7 so pretty familiar with it. I noticed both these new trucks shift at a lot lower RPMs. At times if going from pasture to pasture I have noticed the tach at 900 rpm in 6th gear. My 2011 doesn't do that, it shifts at a higher rpm. Both of the trucks have been deleted, and I have a SCTx4 tuner in each truck and have both tuned to the lowest setting, Tow 40HP. Is this a fuel economy thing?
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I brought my truck to ford because I thought I was having transmission issues, but they are telling me that my transmission is fine, that I need to replace my number 8 injector. None of these symptoms sound like injector issues:
-Shifting from park to reverse, takes a couple seconds to shift, then jumps.
-Coming to a very slow stop, truck is a little jumpy at around 2-3 mph
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0L with 76,000 miles on it. And it just started to shift softer then normal under light throttle. The first to second to third shift are softer then normal. And the third to fifth gear shift seems to have a lot of what I would call overlap and some times it feels like it is slipping. Gets better under hard acceleration but not as firm as it used to be. I have always changed the trans fluid and filter every 25,000 miles. Trans temp runs about 150 to 160deg. I checked the fluid today and it's bright red and does not smell bad. And I don't have any coeds. Could it be a solenoid going bad ?
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Transmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
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My truck just started to have issues with the gear shift. The gear shift seems very loose now and it is having trouble getting back into the park position. Is this a larger transmission issue, or is possibly a failing part on the actual shift mechanism?
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Hauled my last 2 cord of wood for the season, and I now have a pretty good 3-5 slip in and an intermittent bang/clunk when its shifting. So I've put this off for a long while now, and I want to fix it. I've done my research, and I don't really feel like I'm any further ahead than before I did my research.
I'm looking for recommendation's on what transmission and or kit is the best for my truck. I pull my 5er 10-15 times a year mostly up and down the east coast. We are looking to get a new 5er with a bunk house, my goal is to stay in the same weight neighborhood, I run 13-13,500 now depending on where we are going. The goal is to be able to get maybe another 3-5 years of use from the truck, maybe more, and then upgrade to a newer truck. So let me hear what you all recommend as I'm going crazy and probably over researching what I'm gonna do...as usual.
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For those of you tuned and deleted......intermittent transmission shifting stutter is gone now? Mine sure is. Never once since the mods have I had that annoying stutter when the truck is cold and I'm easy on throttle between 2nd and 3rd gears. What a relief it is to have it shift NORMAL ALL THE TIME!!! Stutter no more after H&S Tune and Delete, for about two months now.
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When taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
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