For those of you tuned and deleted......intermittent transmission shifting stutter is gone now? Mine sure is. Never once since the mods have I had that annoying stutter when the truck is cold and I'm easy on throttle between 2nd and 3rd gears. What a relief it is to have it shift NORMAL ALL THE TIME!!! Stutter no more after H&S Tune and Delete, for about two months now.
View 9 RepliesWhen taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
View 14 RepliesBeen having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
I was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
View 5 RepliesIn my 2011 F-250, 6.7, auto....it seems that at certain times went the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd and I pause with acceleration, for some reason the tranny seems to go into a slip mode and then slams into 3rd. Now I read about 8 months ago that there was a computer upgrade via Ford. Which they did when I was having some work done on the truck at the dealership.
View 14 RepliesTook my 2011 F250 in to the dealer where I purchased it concerning intermittent misses on gear changes. The dealer had no history or knowledge of problems with shift flares. I was told they would check it out. Bottom line, their checking it out yielded no results, no action, and no "engagement", pun intended, to resolve a serious concern. How did others resolve the issue when it came up?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 6.0L with 76,000 miles on it. And it just started to shift softer then normal under light throttle. The first to second to third shift are softer then normal. And the third to fifth gear shift seems to have a lot of what I would call overlap and some times it feels like it is slipping. Gets better under hard acceleration but not as firm as it used to be. I have always changed the trans fluid and filter every 25,000 miles. Trans temp runs about 150 to 160deg. I checked the fluid today and it's bright red and does not smell bad. And I don't have any coeds. Could it be a solenoid going bad ?
View 9 RepliesTransmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
View 4 Replies Hauled my last 2 cord of wood for the season, and I now have a pretty good 3-5 slip in and an intermittent bang/clunk when its shifting. So I've put this off for a long while now, and I want to fix it. I've done my research, and I don't really feel like I'm any further ahead than before I did my research.
I'm looking for recommendation's on what transmission and or kit is the best for my truck. I pull my 5er 10-15 times a year mostly up and down the east coast. We are looking to get a new 5er with a bunk house, my goal is to stay in the same weight neighborhood, I run 13-13,500 now depending on where we are going. The goal is to be able to get maybe another 3-5 years of use from the truck, maybe more, and then upgrade to a newer truck. So let me hear what you all recommend as I'm going crazy and probably over researching what I'm gonna do...as usual.
My truck was running rough when cold, I went to check the ficm voltage while wife was cranking and coolant shot right into the ficm and cooked the sumbitch. Stop laughing that stuff happens to me all the time. Anyhow, got a new ficm and truck wont start. Starter kicks out after a few revs. I ran my own solenoid wire to the starter and it cranks just fine. ficm at 48.5 koeo and cranking, icp 1100+, ipr from 14.8 to around 40%, ...
It takes a few seconds for the cam/crank to sync but it does. I changed the fuel filters and primed it, Got new batteries, and threw a crank sensor for s+g. With the key on and me cranking it using the solenoid wire, it almost starts. But from the key it will kick out after a few seconds. All fuses and relays are good. I hear the pcm also controls the starter, could that have cooked when the ficm went or would it blow a fuse? Diagnosing using a scangauge2 ....
I'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
Recently picked up a 2004 Ex 6.0L. Drove great for a bit, then it started shift badly, then finally the Tow/Haul light came on. The original codes were P0976 and P0755.
P0755 being shift solenoid B, and the P0976 being SSB Control Circuit low. I replaced Solenoid B and that code went away.
P0976 stayed with no change in how the truck drives. Replaced the internal harness today, and again no change.
At this point I'm at a loss. I'm wondering if it's something between the PCM and the transmission?
I am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.
06 6.0L 205k
EGR, cat, and muffler delete
IPR replaced roughly 10k miles ago
New oil cooler roughly 15k ago
Replaced turbo Y up pipe 15k ago
Replaced radiator, idler pulley, and serp belt roughly 50k ago
I've got a strange squeal sound coming from under the hood only when truck is cold? It sounds like a bearing and after it gets heated up the sound stops. I talked with a guy thats a cummins guy and he said he had a similar issue and he had to replace the bearing in the turbo? Also when truck is warm it will still do it, like for instance, if I run in a store and truck idles for 5-10 mins it will do it only if I romp on it for a short while like 2-3 mins then again goes away. And if I'm idling or in neutral, hot/cold, it does not do it, it seems to be only under a load. Pull a 26 foot boat no problems.
I just got a 2006 ford F250 lariat fx4,and it's already at the shop.. when cold start it has some white smoke, but once I get up to highway speeds the truck jerks and bucks. turbo is putting out normal boost. I've changed oil and filters along with fuel filters. also put on a new serpentine belt and pulley, air filter and have everything cleaned real good. the truck is acting like it's starving for fuel. FICM or injectors ?
View 14 RepliesLast week I hauled my camper (2000 Thor Citation @ about 10,000 lbs) to Moosehead Lake. On the trip to and from I experienced a few problems. Tow/haul was engaged all three times. Trucks got just over 90,000 mi.
1) When shifting, the truck would occasionally stutter, like a gas engine when it misfires. Seemed like it would usually happen when transitioning from a slight down hill to an up hill.
2) Once, after a long up hill pull, as it crested the top, the truck slammed into the next gear, hard.
3)Once, going down hill, the trans wouldn't shift into O.D. until I took the rpm's up to 3000 then let off the throttle. No, I did not touch the brake prior to this.
Figure the tranny's gonna need a rebuild soon. What kind of upgraded parts does the wise and all knowing FTE wizards think I should be looking at? I tow the camper a lot during the summer so I want a trans that will hold up to the abuse. I'm probably stuck with this thing for a few more years.
just bought a 2003 camry 4 cylinder with 126xxx miles automatic, everything seem fine when i was test driving and all. I bought the car and finally drove the car for around town running errands and all of a sudden i started to noticed a stutter in between shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
View 2 RepliesSo I put in new clutch yesterday. Reverse works, granny works, 3,4,5 work. ZF6 manual. But when I try to go 1st or 2nd. Its as if the truck is in neutral....what should I be looking for. I bought the truck having only knowing the clutch was completely shot, was not told about this 1&2 gear issue....
Do I need to pull the trans out again... or is there something I can see or adjust, because from what i can see where the shifter connects there is no adjustments. Is it probably a gear selector fork...or connection that took a crap. when moving in granny gear i did not hear any irregular noises....
I've tried everything I can think of to get my cruise control working again to no avail. I have a late 99 with a 6 speed. So far I have checked all the fuses with a multimeter, I've checked continuity from the harness under the dash through the clockspring to the switches, truck does not start without the clutch pushed in so the neutral safety switch works, has the upgraded switch and harness off the master cylinder. the previous owner said the cruise was intermittent about a year after they did the harness and switch recall on it. is there a way to test the harness and switch? I got a 1800 mile round trip coming up in about a week and I am gonna have a sore foot if I cant figure this out.
View 11 RepliesWtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 Replies