Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: How To Manually Turn On Dome Light
Jan 9, 2014
Can't figure out how to turn on dome light, so I broke down and did the un-thinkable, I read the manual.... from page 66
Press and hold the top of the control to the full on position to activate the "dome on" feature. This will turn on the interior courtesy lights. The lights will remain on until the bottom of the control is pressed.
[URL] ......
And no luck. Can hold the button down for a long, long time. The dimmer function works OK so the buttons are working. I would like to be able to turn on the rear light so my kids can buckle themselves.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
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I was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
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If doing a EGR delete on a early 2004 6.0 will turn on the check engine light? I was going to leave the valve in place and harness connected, I was just looking to add durability to the truck so don't want to use a tuner but also don't want the engine light on, I seen conflicting reports that it may or may not turn on the light!
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I have been trying to diagnose my truck for 2 weeks now. Truck basically died at light. Towed to a friends shop, had ficm low voltage and crank and cam codes. He replaced crank and cam sensors with aftermarket ones from his parts supplied. I also purchased a ficm, still no start. When i turn key I get a clicking under dash and cruise light flickers, it does flash it flickers. If I unplug ficm relay or icp it will stop and crank over.i am getting a weird random off and on ficm sync.as well as cam crank sync.
If I unplug icp it will start for about 30 seconds then dies and as i am watch ficm and cam sync,when it says no is when it dies. Key on Icp unplugged. Here is Icp plugged in you can see cruise light flickers and check engine goes on and off but this is when it will grind starter. I'm starting to think maybe the motor fires briefly and then dies and starter is trying to engage moving flywheel.
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While driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
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My buddy is selling his truck in a couple days and was taking out speakers, afe intake, and satelite radio. I go to start the truck and i have no power to windows, no power to radio and no domelight when i switch it on and off. Dont know what i did but none of this works and everything else does.
I checked all fused all were good. I searched the forum for a solution and they said something about the automatic delay relay and i bought a new one and nothing still. I am not sure what else to do i checked with voltmeter if i had anypower to the window or radio and nothing. But the radios clock works and when i turn on the light it illuminates but doesnt turn on.
The truck is a 2002 7.3L Crewcab. f350
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Why the heck would my dome lights (front and back) stay on while I'm driving and when the truck is off KOEO and locked? It's not the reading lights, those I can turn on and off at the switch on the light, it's the lights in between them.
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I was to leave tomorrow for a trip with three horses. Last night when I parked my truck the dome light went on and off and there was a noise (like a relay opening and closing?) coming from the area. (I have been having issues with the turn signal getting "tired". At times they would only come on solid then other times try would quit after sitting at a long light.)
Checked my manual for fuses to this issue and I removed the fuse in the spot indicated for the "dome and courtesy lights", number 14. Actually I had removed spot number 15 (5amp). This ended the noise. Drove the truck after and all seemed in order, cruise control, turn signals, interior lights! This was the incorrect fuse according to the book! This event occurred with the ignition in the OFF position. Not wanting to start my trip before I get this in order.
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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I own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
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My transfer case engages the front drive shaft spins but even when I manually lock my hubs neither of my tires will pull! I was thinking either the hubs are shot but I was told it could be the 4wd locking solenoid??
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My dome light will not turn off. I have tried the WD40 in the latch trick and replaced both of the switches. The dimmer is not all the way up. I don't know what else to do.
98 Ranger XLT, V6, Manual windows.....
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Has happened twice now but last night I had to disconnect the battery. A few years ago the driver's door switch was replaced for the same reason. I would do it again but I can't find anything that looks like a switch. Where that thing is? It is a '98 Explorer XLT.
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I am getting tired of my EGR valve plugging up and disabling my Excursion, I pulled the valve and installed an EGR plug. The valve is still plugged in and sitting on the intake.
After a couple of drive cycles the CEL came on for "low EGR flow".... yeah, you don't say.
Anyhow, what's the easiest way to turn this thing off? I don't want to crank up HP with a "tuner", but if that's what it takes. Can I turn off the CEL and retain the factory performance?
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So I locked my keys in the truck and road side assistance pried the door with the hand pump airbag. After which the dome light won't turn off. The drivers door which they pried remains open about 2mm more then the passage light but if I lean on it the light still dosent shut off. This is a 2010 ford ranger. What I should try/check first?
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In the morning, she starts great. Right up. And that's the least time she'll start until tomorrow's morning. Once in a while I'll turn the key and nothing happens, all of my lights are on like normal, but once I turn the key to start, absolutely nothing happens. Next morning, started right up. I can't leave her running everywhere I go. This is my first diesel, I just bought her with 265k miles, looks like she was well taken care of. But she doesn't like to start since the day after I bought her. New alternator because Ford told me, battery light doesn't come on, she still won't start once warm.
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Truck was running fine. Stopped and got fuel. Then crank truck and after about 15 secs it shut itself off. Now it WILL turn over but it is very slow and sounds "tight". 2004 f350 6.0 4x4 auto. I'm leaning towards torque converter.
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2004 Excursion, won't start, just turns over. Pulled the cap off the fuel filter and it's filling fast so seems to be getting fuel. FICM replaced with a unit from Ed a year ago, along with a high output alternator, tests at 49 volts at key on, 48.5 cranking.
Truck started up fine last night, went for a drive with the family through Christmas lights. It has been running very rough at start and then smooths out after a few seconds. Went to start it up today and it just turns over, never fires. Unplugged the ICP on the passenger side valve cover and no improvement.
Pulled codes and had P0269, P0672, and P0676. Looks like a couple flow plug codes an injector contribution code.
What else can I check before pulling the valve covers?
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I have a 2005 Ford f250 Diesel 4x4 with - unfortunately - the crappy 6.0 engine. Yesterday my Daughter parked in the yard and this morning the truck not only will not start but will not even turn over. I thought maybe the batteries were dead but that is not he case. When you turn the switch on you can hear the pump start up but it will not turn over? All the lights come on and the bell comes on when you open the door and the dashboard lights work but the thing will just not turn over. I am assuming this may be some type of electrical issue or something but whatever the problem is it just came out of the blue. Ford imo should have recalled this engine.
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