Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: How To Get Ambient Temp To Read On Dash Display
Jun 14, 2015
New 2015 King Ranch. Has the navigation screen where it displays the outside temp. Just watched a youtube video where another 6.7 truck had their ambient temp displayed on the dash screen between the speedo and RPM gauges.
Also going under "gauge mode", it shows tranny and engine oil temp, move over one position it shows compass, and move over third, it shows nothing. What this third position is supposed to be for?
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I'm excited to be a Powerstroke owner again! I had a 2000 with the 7.3L and since bought and now sold a Chevy 1500. Last week I bought a new 2015 6.7L. I am MORE than impressed and love the truck. Today I brought it to get the windows tinted. I have not had one issue with the truck since I have had it. When they finished with the windows, my check engine light was on. The shop I had it done it EXTREMELY reputable. They brought out their snap on scanner and pulled the code. p0073 for the ambient air temp sensor circuit high. Is this a coincidence that this came on after they got done, or could something they did while tinting the windows tripped this?
As I drove off down the road after determining I wasn't going to hurt the truck, the air temp sensor went from showing -40 to the actual temperature. What would cause this? I deleted the code when I got home with my actron, and the MIL has stayed off since, however, it shows P0073 Permanent ...
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
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I'm only getting a low reading of 0f, it will not go below that. does it truly not read below zero? It was way below zero this morning.
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P0073 Ambient air temperature sensor circuit high. Preliminary inspection, right outside mirror badly damaged/broken. Guess where the sensor is?
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My 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
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My question may be unique -- I cannot find anything about this -- at an idle, what should the boost read? Sunday at WOT I saw 28.76 -- but at idle it generally reads 0.1-0.4 -- bounces around a little -- but is that about right? Also, at WOT and 28+ boost what should the VGT read? I really am trying to sort out what this information is telling me -- not is that normal or average but what is ideal and what represents a red flag -- cut the truck off you have a problem kind of numbers.
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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For some reason my OH display decided to show 140 deg F when its 40 deg F outside. Continues to show 140 all the time now regardless of out side temp. In case its the related outside temp sensor sending unit, where it is exactly on an 02. Unless someone has solution may try changing that out to see if that is the problem?
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On my monitor, when I really get on it, I see the boost come up nicely and then when it gets to about 22 -23 lbs, it drops to zero on my monitor display, but the engine does not seem to falter in anyway. Why or what I might do about it?
I find it very annoying and do not believe it should be doing so, thus figure it might be causing some other problems or so. ..? I hear others talking about seeing 24 and up boost being displayed... why not me?
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I cannot believe outside temp is not available on 2015's...I don't see it on any screen or in the manual.
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I know that when you are in the manual mode you can see which gear you are in on the right hand side of the small display between the speedo and tach (forget what that display is called). Is there a way to configure that screen so you can see which gear you are in while in "Drive"? With six gears to go through and these things shifting so smooth, I just think it would be nice to be able to tell what gear you are in at any particular time (especially when towing). -Glenn
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I have an 07 6.0 diesel and I'm having trouble once it gets hot. It begins to lose throttle response and shakes while cruising and also has a rough idle. sometimes it dies while idling but after cooling off for a few minutes starts back up and runs fine. I've checked the high pressure oil and the ficm and both of those are fine. I've done an EGR delete so it has nothing to do with that either. My MPG also goes way down when this happens.
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I know they're supposed to be within 15 deg of each other. How bad is this? Pulling a small trailer with a polaris rzr on it. Running 75mph
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This is not on my truck. This is on my buddies 04 we just did the egr delete and oil cooler and a bunch of other stuff to.
Coolant temp doesn't go past 170 which I assume a new thermostat will fix this issue no problem.
but, the oil temp never goes past 140 no matter what driving for an hour at 70 and it doesn't change.
Bad sensor? Or would replacing the thermostat bring the oil temp up to where it should be?
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I recently observed coolant temps of up to 217 degrees as reported by my mini max and oil of 230 as reported by the dash while towing 9000 pounds from San Diego to Las Vegas on the 15 going up the 16 mile mountain grade. My temp gauge on the dash never moved a bit, it stayed in the same spot from 199 to 217 so I assume its not too hot. My mini max defuel setting has the coolant temp at 220? I slowed down and tried to keep it under 210.
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I have my check coolant message on my display again... I need to get the fuel filters changed so I'm thinking of having the coolant flushed too. 45,500 or there abouts on the ODO.
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Own a 2011 6.7 diesel, 59K mileage, short bed 4 WD. Was driving at 70 mph and noticed my instant mileage display read 0. Usually I see a instant mileage reading of at least 16. No regen was in progress. Steady gas throttle. Display could be changed to other screens. After a few minutes it came back. But it jumped to 16 and did not ramp up.
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I have 2007 6.0, rough idle starts, rough and no power till engine reaches running temperature, runs great after that. If the engine is off for half hour, and restarted, runs rough again till engine temp is back again.
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To start off. I have a 2004 F350 with the 6.0 in it which just had a top end rebuild done on it due to the head gasket blowing on it. During the rebuild the EGR cooler was also deleted, ARP head studs, Heads were milled down to make them flat (shop said they had to take 9 thousands off to do so), new up pipes installed, new back pressure sensor installed due to the plug head snapping off, new glow plugs, new glow plug rail harness, oil rail rebuilt due to bad o-rings on the ball tubes, injectors were installed with all new seals and had polished the spool valves hoping to avoid stiction (however its spelled can never remember), and lastly the EGR was deleted electronically with tuner. Also had to get 2 new batteries as they were stone dead and would not take a charge. And had to get a new alternator due to low output. Not sure if the alternator killed the batteries or the batteries killed the alternator either way it needed replaced to.. Unfortunately after i got that fixed i had to get a new starter as it died 3 days later.
Ever since its gone back together Ive had a consistent intermittent miss with the truck. Ive searched every article i can find but seems most complain about misses when cold. Mine is the exact opposite as it only does it once the engines up to normal operating temp. It accelerates hard and fast like it has no issues. While its cold it doesnt miss at all. Once its warmed up sometimes while cruising it will feel like its missing on every cylinder or better description would be as if your driving on a cobble stone road.. If you mash the pedal for a couple seconds till it kicks down and raises the rpms it stops.. Its most prevalent at idle though.. You can literally hear the difference in the engine when it starts missing. Truck will shake as if its got a large lopey cam. Odd part while sitting at idle it will cycle back and forth between running smooth and missing. But same with at cruise as soon as you get on the throttle it goes away. If its doing it while sitting idle at a light, it will take a couple seconds once your on the throttle for it to smooths out. But always does.
Ive tested the Ficm hot and cold, KOEoff and KOEOn.. getting a steady 48v from the main board.. Scan gauge says the Logic boards reading steady 13v... Also from the scan gauge it says my ICP pressure is in the 640 range at idle (full throttle highest ive seen is 3600psi so dont think its a pressure leak) and volts bounce between .80-.90.. but oddly once it starts missing the ICP pressure jumps up 20 psi.. IPR at idle reads 23.5-25.5.. at cruise its up around 45ish.. fuel pressures said to 70 psi.. which its usually around that most times, cruising itll be around 66psi. I had 3 injectors replaced not this past spring but the year before (ironically same symptoms).. Injectors 5,7,8 were replaced then.. ICP sensor was also replaced at the same time as it split and shorted out the connector which was the initial reason i took it in that time since it was dumping the oil on the ground.
I dont have any way to perform a cylinder contribution test and after spending 6K on a rebuild I really cant afford to take it in to have someone else do it. A local guy was able to scan the truck for me but he couldn't do the contribution test either but was able to buzz test them. Everything passed there but we also found some hidden fault codes my code readers did not find. The ones we found hidden said that injectors 2, 4, and 7(again??) are reading low contribution. Of what I've read 2 & 4 sit on either side of 7 in the firing order so have wondered if they're not pulling down 7's results.
I really cant afford to replace the injectors till near the end of next month. Is there anything else I can look at that might actually possibly be causing false readings or intermittent misses only when warm.
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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