Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: HPFP Failure - Code P0087 And P21b0
Nov 27, 2016
My hpfp just blew up 2 weeks ago. I'm still waiting to hear if my ford extended warentee will pay for it. What was weird for me was I had a p0087 code thrown about an hour before the p21b0 code. I had a 5sec warning of reduce power, then pull over now message, then it died before I could get over. All service down by ford, 48k miles on my 2011. I'm not happy that the truck left me on the side of the road with the 5th wheel in tow. Having a second failure? Not sure if I want to keep the truck now or not. Sounds like even the newer trucks are failing as well. I would have thought they would have this fixed by now.
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CEL came on.. hooked up my cheap OBD/CAN scanner.. getting code P21B0..googled it and this is what i find: P21B0 - Reductant Level Sensor C Circuit High. What is this for? I've about had it with this truck..this having to replace a sensor every time I take it on a long trip stuff is getting ridiculous..2 EGT's, air charge cooler sensor, blower motor, and now this...
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I'm getting a p0087 on a hard acceleration new low pressure pump new fuel filters run the pinpoint test in the pced is fine and passes the high pressure test with the ids? Not sure where to go from here?
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This morning I went to go to the corner to buy something, I knew it was colder than usual, -12F. I did not plug in the pre-heater last night. I let the truck idle for 15 minutes before moving it. It was still idling high. The P0087 code is the only code popping- is this just because of the cold temp? I haven't owned a diesel since my '79 Rabbitt, and this engine is as different from that as night is day. this didn't happen yesterday but it only got down to -2F and warmed up to about 18F.
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I have a 2011 F450 with a 6.7. It has 99K. The whole fuel system was replaced about 10K miles back. I installed a dieselsite aux fuel filter/water separator after that. Has been running like a top till this am on the way to work. Right before I get to my biz the reduced power warning came on, fortunately I made it into the parking lot at my biz. Then the engine died and it would not restart. Hooked it up to auto ingenuity and I got the P0087 code. I changed the diesel site fuel filters and the stock primary and secondary fuel filters.
The diesel site had a little bit of sediment but no water whatsoever. The Ford filters were very clean and had no trace of sediment or water, but I replaced them anyways. I cleared the code and tried to restart the engine but it will not start. Checked for codes again and now has P0087, P2291 and P2539. The pump is kind of loud when trying to prime the system but there is pressure to secondary filter on engine. I do not have a gauge and adapter to check the pressure yet. I did pick up a replacement pump before the parts dept closed. Could the pump still be bad even tho I do have pressure at the secondary filter?
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My truck had to be towed to the shop today. The wife and I were stranded for 2 hours and to say I was upset is a understatement. My truck has 13,800 miles and this type of failure is unacceptable. Is it necessary to carry extra sensors around in order to get your truck off the side of the road? BTW, my truck didn't even make it to the side of the road, we had to push it to a narrow shoulder on a busy side road.
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Had CEL light and took truck to dealer and they replaced Bank 1 sensor 4, two days later, CEL again Bank 1 sensor 3.
I've trouble shot many EGT sensors on Airplanes, and we could tell if there was a failure coming if a couple failed by testing the sensors themselves. My Service Manager told me there is no way they can check the others out. That sounds like Bull to me.
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So I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 that broke down about 2 months ago due to an EGR failure. Took it to the dealership got it fixed along with a new injector everything has been running fine only thing I notice is a big split in EOT and fW(218 EOT and 192 fWT). Well yesterday on the way home my wrench light comes on I tried to scan it with the scan gauge but it said no codes found and when I got home and turned the truck off and back on the light went off. What could cause this?
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I'm at 76K miles and I had another exhaust sensor go bad. This time the check engine light came on and the truck did not shut down. I was prepared this time and had an extra sensor / code reader handy.
It was the last sensor in line and very easy to get to. It took me less than five minutes to complete the job. I did use anti seize, but as easy as it came out it probably wasn't necessary.
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I only get random TPS failure messages when I am hauling my cab over camper and towing a horse trailer. Other than Murphy's law which dictates that these type of events only happen at the worst times (fully loaded w/ kids, dogs, horses, steep grades, no shoulder, 110+ temps, etc) I figure that the big metal box is disrupting the TPS signal reception. Not sure where the antenna is for the TPS system. I stop and check pressure/temperature just in case but all is well. My Lance has a sheet metal skin and blocks satellite completely and terrestrial radio somewhat, which I don't use anyway.
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Having issues with the instrument cluster and lost communication trouble codes. My truck has been having issues and it loses comm with all the modules. All the warming lights the truck has come up on the LED screen in the dash and if I turn it off it will not start. Most recently my traction control light stays on and my tranny is locked into 5th gear. I have park, reverse & 5th gear. Most recent DTC's are lost come with TCM & ABS control module. It seems to be getting more consistent but was very intermittent. Spent a week at ford with no progress. Truck wont start for a full day and then will start the next morning? When its bugging out it wont even prime the fuel system of turn over. Cab was off last fall to install SPE diesel STG 2 short block, Industrial compound turbo kit & water/meth kit. truck has been amazing and insane power until recent electrical/computer issues. When truck is bugging out tuner will not communicate with the truck and cannot read codes or remove programmer.
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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So I am happily driving my 2011 F250 Powerstroke and the water in fuel light comes on. I drain the filter and drive about 10 miles and it happens again. Drain again and 5 miles later the engine dies. Had it towed to my dealer who found an exploded high pressure diesel injection pump. They talked to Ford and found out that they needed to install an all new fuel system from the injectors to the tank! The bill was 18,000 and no warrantee. Bad stuff gets right by the filters!!! I have two of those trucks and since the dealer used exactly the same parts as the broken ones, it can happen today again.
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I was pulling our 14k fiver home after a weekend at the lake and I heard a muffled pop sound. About a minute prior I had checked the gauges and everything was normal. It honestly sounded like a chinabomb tire on the ttrailer had popped. Puled over and all tires were good so I popped the hood .....
Here's the bottom half. Is this possibly a warranty item? 2011 with 61k. And no mods. Plus a lot of oil on everything is that normal?
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Started truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
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My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.
So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?
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Today I just installed a brand new IDM and after running the Injector Buzz Test test, I received codes: P1298 Injector Drive Module Failure, P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1, and P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2. How a new IDM could throw these codes?
When running the KOEO test I received codes P0605 Injector Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error, P1298, P1293, & P1294.
My engine is still missing but the engine is running a heck of a lot better after replacing the IDM and injector 8 has a rotational velocity of about 3%
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So i just finished putting in new high pressure oil rail cup seals in and a new #2 injector. Truck was running great for about 5 miles and then just shut off. When I had it towed home I plugged in the super chips tuner "no tunes installed" and I have a p0460, p0463, p2290, p2291. I also have a #7 glow plug circuit failure Ive been a little neglectful in getting done.
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2005 6.0 SuperDuty ... I was driving my truck on the freeway, no issues. Started hearing a very faint ticking sound, then the engine died. Pulled off to the side. tried to start it, and it turned over very rapidly, with no compression. I'm thinking "Timing Gear".
Had it towed to a Ford dealership near the incident. I told them what i thought it may be, and the mechanic thought it "May be possible". not very confidently....
I authorized them to remove the engine, and look. Sure enough, the gears were toast. This is the difficult part.
The service manager is a young kid, (I can tell from talking to him a hundred times on the phone), and is telling me "My Cam(s) are ruined, and the valves are bent, because the metal from the gears went through the motor. I told him to stop. put the truck outside, and wait. So, I have a couple of questions. other than i don't have Cam(s).
1. Is the 6.0 a clearance type motor? (will the valves impact the pistons, if the timing gears fail).
2. Will the metal from the timing gears get into the motor, or fall into the oil pan?
There were no loud noises, when the engine died. I had the engine bullet proofed at 101,000 miles, it now has 250,000. The truck is still solid, so worth fixing?
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Truck has been running very well while in the warmer North Carolina climate pulling trailers with no limp mode or wrench light. However, when daughter started the truck this morning, SGII showed one DTC and when she pulled it up it was P0675. OK, glow plug num 5 maybe or the module. No issues starting or rough cold idle. I told her to clear the code and we'll see if comes back.
She did ask if it is something she should have it repaired before the trip back to Vermont. So I thought I'd ping the group here since reading posts, they seem to be fairly easy to replace (and assuming it isn't a chafed wire) and I could probably save her some $. Just want to make sure there isn't any chance of real engine damage.
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Ok 2011 ford f350 6.7. Turn key on, no crank, no start. Trailer brake module failure flashes on the screen. If you leave the key on after 5 to 10 minutes the heater kicks on and you can start it. Runs down the road, hitting every pot hole for 1000 miles fine. Shut it off, try to immediately restart, same thing. If you hook up a booster box to it it starts. Replaced both batteries, cleaned cables. Scanned it, only codes are with the instrument panel : loss of communication with trailer brake module, with abs, with heat and air, and with parking aid modules. Tried to scan abs, parking aid, and brake, scanner would not communicate. When it is running communicates fine with them. Need a direction to go from here?
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