Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Got Error Codes P220c And P220e?
Apr 21, 2014
I had incorrect codes its a p200c and p200e
I know this has been talked about but im not having the same results when doing tests
Truck had a ruff fri night. Getting on I state with trailer loaded and it said STOP SAFELY NOW shut donw before i got it under 30 mph. Had it towed back to our shop and started to figure out what was wrong. I have heard of egt 12 and egt 13 sensors going bad. so i un plugged them and put a test meter to the first three all came back in the 216.00 range which is in standard for what my buddy's tested at.
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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Truck wont start idm communication error all the fuses are good and the relay seams good I switched it out with another relay 340,000 miles how do I know if its the IDM r not... I'm sure the idm is not cheap...
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My CEL is on and I pulled this code...I made the mistake of using a Hypertech programmer and the code came on soon after. I do have a stock code I saved from my SCT, would it fix it if I put it back in?
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
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OK getting these 2 codes PO113 and PO4DA What now have 17,000 miles and a long weekend. Truck has no power barley moves. Can't get it to a dealer till tuesday.
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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6.0 diesel 83,000 miles. My CEL is always on and my Edge gauge says it's lower than expected Mass air flow. I've changed the filter, cleaned the MAF with special cleaner and then replaced with new. I've replaced the EGR valve.
If I clear the codes and run it I don't get a CEL until I turn it off. But the next time I start it, there it is again. My Edge reads 0.0-0.3 MAF while running but what that means. One end of my cleaner box is slightly warped but I can't feel any noticeable leakage.
Everything runs fine but I would like to regain the ability to have that idiot light available to tell me if I have a new problem.
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I just did a test drive with my 04 6 liter, I did the stealth egr delete. I had a P0400 error code any concern?
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I had a bad Glow Plug on my 2004 F350 6.0L Diesel causing the check engine light to go on. I replaced the Glow Plug and cleared the OBD2 error. The check engine light is off now, but I can't pass the smog check because EGR Monitor "Not Ready"
I put 100+ miles city/freeway miles on the truck, but I still get EGR Monitor "Not Ready" Even tried "Drive Cycle" with no luck...
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My SCT X4 tuner was not loading the gauges, so I updated it and then the gauges started working. Then I check the codes and it came up as "General error 21000".
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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Alright so I'm a little frustrated at my truck for the last month. I have a 2013 f350 with 2 codes comming up. P0100-mass or volume air flow circuit and a U0106-lost communication with glow plug control module. I have an H&S tuner with the delete. I changed the MAS and it's still lighting up. The dealer is looking into it cause they didn't foresee any problems with the glow plugs either. I erase the code, shut the truck off and once I start it it's right back on! Frustrating!
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Today on the way home after about 45 min drive my wrench light came on but when I checked for codes on my sct I get no codes. Is that weird or common?
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These are two codes I have gotten in the past but my programmer has no description & it is not in a list of codes that I have either.
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So last night wife texts me pict of dash with CEL lit up... She was on the way home with horse in tow from a short haul to a nearby riding area. Truck has been in this service for more than a month and also sitting a lot. It has extremely low miles and wife tows horse with a soft pedal Always. I do try and take it out and exercise it, but that has been at least a couple months now.
Checked codes and ignoring a bunch of soft and repeat codes, got:
Current: P0299 - which is under/over boost usually, right?
Pending: P0478 - EBP high
So idled truck and all realtime info looked pretty normal, I think EBP was around 19, I realized I'm not watching Baro, I'll add that. Turbo was cleaned about 5K miles, but several years ago.
Was going to: clear codes, unhook trailer and take truck for a good drive, including some WOT romps and see what happens...? Or? I could set up data logging for boost, baro, ebp, rpm, and ?, prior to the drive... I guess eventually your "turn" comes up...
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ok i have a 2004 6.0 that has been a pain for the last 3 months so much so that i have replaced all the injectors,fuel pump ,water pump ,ficm, batterys , now 4 days ago i was driving and the truck stumbled for a second but i brushed it off as maybe I still had air in the fuel and the truck drove as it should .. now fast forward 2 days and whil driving it just died so I put the shifter in nutral and it fired right up in 2 seconds then it runs as it should for about 10 minuets then it died again and fired right up .. while i was turning around it died 3 more times but would crank and run then just 3 miles from home it died and would not crank . when I got the truck home I hooked up my computer and had a cam position sensor code so it sat for about 3 hours and as luck would have it it fired back up and run fine i once again checked it and the same code was there now its today and I once again fired up the truck and i checked every wire for chafing and I could not find any i even checked it while running and nothing so I drove all over the yard and the truck run great until it reached a temp of 191 at which time it shuttered and died I could crank iit back up then it would die again but now I have no codes and my icp and irp seem fine here is a screen shot while the truck is running.
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I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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Was trying to give back to FTE, all have been useful. So I figure I would post a problem solver. Had a nice oil leak traced to cam sensor o ring. All back together now crank no start.
Truck is half in and out of the garage, torque pro isn't pulling any codes. I did accidentally pull my alternator cable out of the connector, luckily had one to replace.
Did I wreck the sensor taking it out? Will have to try and pull the beast out tonight.
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Got a P0470 code check engine light on. It's - 12 outside. Having problems with this in the cold? I seen something awhile back about a TSB about ice forming on the sensor on 06-07 engines. It's the second time thus winter it has come on both times it was - degrees out.
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