Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Glow Plug Fell Inside The Cylinder
Dec 6, 2011
I would like to know if i am the only one that had that problem... a few weeks ago, I had to stop and get the truck towed to the dealership and they told me that my engine was shot. Then they told me it was a glow plug that fell inside the cylinder... didn't know it was possible but any way it was under warranty.
Last Monday they asked me to bring all my service receipt and that ford is asking them to take the engine apart and study it before they would ship a new engine... Are the trying to get away from paying it under warranty? The truck is 2011 with 80000 km (50000 miles).
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Pulled p0678, glow plug 8. I've changed out the glow plug on cylinder 1 a few years ago.
Cylinder 8, being on the driver side rear, is it difficult to change out? Should I just pay Ford or another shop to fix this?
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Just got back from the beach yesterday. On the way back I noticed the check engine light on and read the codes. It listed 4 codes, P0671,P0672, P0677 and P0678. From what I can find, Cylinder 1, 2, 7 and 8 have the glow plug circuit open. Truck ran fine and didn't miss a beat. Ambient temp was around 80 when we started up the truck so I guess diesel plugs are not to crucial for that temp. I did notice when driving back the Vbatt would jump from 12.2v at1854 RPM (34 MPH) and 13.8v at 1652 (57 MPH).
Would bad batteries or low batteries cause this type of problem? This may be wishful thinking on my part. I have tested the batts with a DMM and they are at 12.3v. I took them out and charged them but they always go down to 12.3v. FMP is 47.5v to 48.5v. It seems suspect that all four glow plugs would be bad so I assume it could be the harness. What are some ways I can test to verify where the problems come from.First thing I would do is get two new batteries as these are still under warranty.
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I have to replace the #6 glow plug. I confirmed it is bad and the harnes broke when trying to reove it with the proper tool. I ordered a new glow plug, ZD13, and a new drivers side harness.
I have never replaced a glow plug before but it seems pretty straight forward. I watched some youtube videos and did some reading.
I have read some state that you have to loosen the glow plug with a 10mm socket and then take some tubing and push it onto the glow plug to finish loosening it and prevent it from falling into the cylinder. I have read people saying it took them hours with a magnet to get the plug out of the cylinder.
If the plug is threaded and is removed from the threads how is it possible for it to fall past the threads into the cylinder?
Anything special I need to know? Anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the connection? What the torque spec is?
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Just happened to check codes today for fun and found something interesting. I've known about 2 or 3 glow plug codes since last winter but I looked today and I have a code for every single circuit. Thought that was kind of odd.... I already have 8 brand new plugs and both harnesses from Autonation sitting in the back seat, was just waiting till the fall to change them out. At 176k on the originals I decided to change them all. But now I'm thinking the GPCM may be faulty as well.
P0671 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit
P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit
P0673 Cylinder 3 Glow Plug Circuit
P0674 Cylinder 4 Glow Plug Circuit
P0675 Cylinder 5 Glow Plug Circuit
P0676 Cylinder 6 Glow Plug Circuit
P0677 Cylinder 7 Glow Plug Circuit
P0678 Cylinder 8 Glow Plug Circuit
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Could a leaking passenger side glow plug harness cause a "hot no start?
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I'm really struggling to get this sucker off my 2014 6.7 F350
it says in the ford manual to lift the plastic tabs then pull off, I did that easily with 3 on each side, but the end plug on each side (the one closest to the windshield) does not seem to have a liftable tab (it looks different to the others as its at the end of the cable)
I've almost broken it but not quite, its over $300 for new harness, ouch
I do have the odd little hook tool they sell for this, it worked with the other 3 for sure, but I've spent ages on the 4th on each side and cannot budge either of them
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Got a 2003 6.0 that seems to be leaking from the glow plug harness. How hard would it be to just replace them? I've heard that trying to remove these things can be a pain because they almost always break. But if I'm just going to replace them who cares right?
Is there anything I need to be careful about? Or can I just rip em on out? Also I've noticed two different styles of harness should I replace mine with the other style or just keep it the same? And yes those valve cover nuts are loose. I'm aware
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Ok yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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CEL came on in my 2013 6.7L with 74K miles a couple days ago. Pulled the code today and it was a P263C - Glow Plug Driver Performance code. Any remedy for this.
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I have an 2011 f350 6.7 diesel. The glow plug ruptured causing damage to the chambers. I recently bought a new 2014 6.7 diesel engine had this motor installed. When I received the truck back it shifts 1,2, 3 gear and jumps to 6.
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#2 contribution/glow plug/injector code ????? Harness looks good. What's the malfunction?? Runs rough. Never seen those 3 codes together.
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So bummed. I love Ford but this has put a bad taste in my mouth. Glow Plug dropped and destroyed the engine and injectors. Now i have a bill for 15k for a long block and injectors.
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We just replaced the #5 injector. Went to take for a test drive and the 4 glow plug caps on passenger side popped off and leaking oil while driving. Pushed them back on and they popped off again. They shouldn't be under pressure should they.
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So i just finished putting in new high pressure oil rail cup seals in and a new #2 injector. Truck was running great for about 5 miles and then just shut off. When I had it towed home I plugged in the super chips tuner "no tunes installed" and I have a p0460, p0463, p2290, p2291. I also have a #7 glow plug circuit failure Ive been a little neglectful in getting done.
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06 6.0 F250 throwing code P0677 #7 glow plug circuit module. I don't think one bad plug would cause a no start, however coupled with too much oil possibly? Swapped my oil about 500 miles ago, I put in 20qts accidentally, drained off about 3-4 qts eyeballed, truck fired up and ran fine no smoke nothing. Yesterday morning I was leaving work and moved my truck from parking space to behind the bay at my fire station, I turned the engine off.
Loaded up my gear and turned the engine to the aux position and someone was talking to me so inlet it sit for a while in the auxiliary position. Went to crank no start, turned the key off then back on and it fired. Fast forward after 7 different starts throughout the day, I'm at dinner with my son we go to leave engine will not start at all, rolls and rolls and rolls nothing. Towed her home and scratching my head. Over filled oil with a bad plug cause no start??
Egr delete, new oil cooler, cat and muffler delete, upgraded Y turbo pipe. Also have an SCII throwing codes p0677 and p0401 egr code....
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I'm new to owning a diesel. I have a. 2004 f250 6.0. I gotta smog the truck this weekend but the check engine light is on. Fault is P0674. I've notice during the day it starts up fine but at nights, lately it's been low 40 outside it won't start. Where to start at.
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So; I bought my 07 f350 6.0 the other day. I have a light on that sends a code for glow plug control module, but the truck starts fine, the same in cold temperatures as warm, so far nothing below 32 degrees though. I dont have the code # at the moment, but will update when i get the scanner back. Why this module is throwing a red flag?
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I have a 07 f250 6.0l and it has 112k on it, I've owned it for over 4yrs, since 45k, and no issues, but this morning I went out to start my truck didn't start, tried again and started, but the glow plug controller made a funny buzzing noise, (making that noise for a few weeks), so I went to ford and bought a new controller, so I hope that fixed that, but on my way to work I was at a traffic light and noticed that my ficmv were between 46-48.5, icp 23-24%, vgt around 68%, truck was at temp, should I start to worry about the ficm??, I have to replace my ground on driver side battery, noticed that it is corroding, gonna do that, I have 2 yellow top optima batteries about 3 yrs old....
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My 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
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