Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Gear Indicator Display Quit Working
Apr 3, 2014
So for 4500 miles since new my truck has been displaying, on the right side of the instrument display in the center dash, the actual gear the truck is in. I would shift from park to drive and move out and the truck would display what gear it was in by placing a lighted box around the gear number as it shifted 1-6. Now that display is gone. It's not anywhere. If I go to the manual mode it will display that, but the normal numbers from 1-6 , bottom to top , are gone.
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My truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
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I went on a 4oo mile trip the other day and kiddos were in the back playing games and powered up- Next thing I know the AC seems to not be working. It was pretty cool outside so I tested it a little and I could not feel any cool air in the seats and teh vents were not very cold.
Clutch seems to be engaged and not cycling.
I am taking back to them Wednesday.
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My truck does mostly pavement duty so no telling how long ago 4WD quit working but I needed it the other day and it's now a no-go. It's the '06 truck in my sig and it has ESOF.
When I flip the switch (4hi or 4low acts the same) my A/C continues to come out of the dash vents, it doesn't change. With KOEO I can hear a whirr-click from under the truck when switching 4wd on and off, I get noise both ways. 4x4 light on the dash seem to work correctly.
Broke out FORScan and got the following info:
===GEM DTC P1832===
Code: P1832 - Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
===END GEM DTC P1832===
[Code] ....
Any tips to quickly nail it down between the switch, GEM, wiring or solenoid? Looks like the whole thing is failing. I've climbed under the truck and all the wiring appears undisturbed. No recent work under there. In FORScan, these DTC's were generated in a user initiated test and I didn't pick up the instruction to re-run the test in 4x2 mode until I posted just now.
Under the hood everything seems to be routed correctly and connected. Vacuum pump runs a short while on start up like always has. I can lock hubs manually and they don't seem to be binding hard but they are a little stiff, haven't done that before so I don't know how hard it should be to turn them. I have a MiteVac but haven't tried using it to try and lock the hubs. Not sure any of that matters (yet) with the DTC's listed above.
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I know that when you are in the manual mode you can see which gear you are in on the right hand side of the small display between the speedo and tach (forget what that display is called). Is there a way to configure that screen so you can see which gear you are in while in "Drive"? With six gears to go through and these things shifting so smooth, I just think it would be nice to be able to tell what gear you are in at any particular time (especially when towing). -Glenn
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The only problem it's had is the heated seats quit working.
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So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
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My SYNC voice commands witch I refer to as " Shiela" has quit working. No voice and it does not recognize phone. Just displays " no phone" ????
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We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
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I have a 2015 F350, sometimes the info center will show what gear I am in and sometimes it won't. Why or what I can do so it shows all the time?
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My work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
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So i had been up in the woods for better half of the day. I had been in 4wd a few times, didn't thrash on anything and while driving home about 30mins into the return trip on the pavement i noticed my speedo only showing 10mph. I know i was easily going 50mph. I changed my SGII gauge to show MPH and sure enough i was going way faster. Eventually the needled dropped to zero and stayed that way for at least 5 miles. Then I came to a stop to and made a right turn giving it a bit of throttle and the speedo began to work correctly and did so for the remaining 5 miles. the Odom also during that time wasn't adding mileage. could this be from the rear sensor ontop of the rear diff?
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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On my 2003 powersteering the windows and radio will just quit working. Then they will come on again. Maybe in and hour or a day or a week. Where do I sart.
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I have an 03 F350 Lariat, the overhead console display quit working awhile back (about 18 months ago) and so far my only option is to buy a new one from Ford. I have looked online, on ebay, local wreckers and have come up with nothing. I have come close a few times but the wrecks didn't have a sunroof so the display is different. I searched and found ways to fix the resistors but mine do not seem to have the poor solder problem that some do. Where I can find a replacement display?
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I have an 04 f350 and the other day the windows and radio quit all at once. Lots of people are having intermittent problems but mine went from being fine to nothing all at once. I tried the circuit breaker and the relay but nothing seems to fix it. What this is?
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I have a 2011 6.7 with 16000 miles and it just turned 5 years old.Yesterday had hood up and notice driver side battery eye indicator was red, other battery was showing green, truck turned over and started fine. 15 degrees out this morning, truck started fine.Truck hasn't been ran for a couple weeks.What does the red indicate,battery needs charged or time for new batteries?
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Recently turned 100k and since have had my exhaust RTD's go out. While fixing that they found the back radiator leaking. Since then both batteries died which didn't surprise me at 40 months. Then my windshield washer started leaking, then my DEF heater went out and two days ago my AC quit. I was ready to buy a new 2015 but now not sure. I've contacted Ford customer service and they are getting with the dealer to see what they may cover but haven't heard anything back yet.
Mine is a 2011 with 105,000 on it. This is pretty frustrating. I have been very pleased with this truck up until now it has been very dependable. However when that dependability begins to go south at only 100k it brings to question what exactly are we paying for here? A heavy duty truck that costs upward of 60k should be one you can count on for a lot longer than that. How Ford approaches this with me is definitely going to have a direct bearing on which 2015 diesel truck is in my driveway in the next few months. Again let me say that i have been very pleased with this truck and FOMOCO in general.
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I'm working on a 2005 F350 with a 6.0. The customer was driving the truck when it suddenly quit running and now it won't start. The only code stored in the memory is P2290 - ICP too low. With my scanner connected the IPR is showing 85% duty cycle and the ICP is only showing 5 psi while cranking. I disconnected the ICP sensor while cranking but still no fire, so I removed it and connected a pressure gauge which shows zero psi while cranking. I hooked up a cylinder leakdown gauge to the ICP port and with 100 PSI of air pressure I'm showing less than 2% leakage with the IPR energized at 60% duty. Thinking the hpop was bad I replaced it but still no change. I also tried a new IPR but no luck there either. I removed the oil filter cartridge and verified the low pressure pump is pumping oil while cranking. Could the inlet screen be plugged inside the oil cooler? I'm at a complete loss.
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I need to replace the cable on my gear shift indicator. Of course you can't just replace the cable. I have even looked on you tube and not found anything. I don't know if maybe I am using the wrong search terms or not.
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The dreaded "water in fuel" indicator is on! I'm traveling an hour south of me in the blizzard and the WIF indicator goes on. I immediately pull over and crawl under the truck to find the wiring to the sensor disconnected!!!(I just had Ford service the vehicle Monday!) I plug it back in and no change. After 50 miles or so the truck goes into reduced power mode. I get home and ride out the storm. After cleaning up the snow I get under the truck and disconnect, clean, and re-install connector on the sensor. Drain fuel from bowl.....not a drop of water. Restart truck...still no change. I know there's no water but now what?
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