Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Fuel Line Purge - Hard To Restart After Sitting For Couple Of Hours
Jul 31, 2013
I had to drop my fuel tank and as a result, I replaced the fuel lines from the underbed filter to the tank. After replacing everything, I purged, purged, and purged some more. With much difficulty I was able to get the truck running and it ran good. But, I have trouble restarting the truck anytime I let it sit for a couple of hours. It cranks and cranks and eventually fires, but with much difficulty.
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2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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I have s 2007 f250 superduty with a 6.0. Recently after the engine gets warm I have a problem restarting it. I have to turn the key to the run position until all sounds have stopped then I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. Sometimes I have to repeat this three or four times before it starts. I have had the fuel pump rebuild and installed two new batteries. What I should be looking at.
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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Couple of years ago I installed a fuel pressure gauge. I wrapped the fittings with teflon tape. Well within about a year it started leaking. So I shopped around and used Permatex Permashield fuel resistant sealant on the fittings. It says diesel resistant on the package. Couple months later leaking again. So I take it apart again, clean every fitting and follow the instructions to the letter. Well its leaking again. What will resist diesel fuel under 55 psi pressure. All the fittings seem to be pipe thread.
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Should the upper fuel bowl be empty after sitting for 30 minutes?
I believe no. Which would indicate to me a stuck open injector which Iv been suspected of. Iv been trying to track down a miss that I have and Iv been suspicious of a bad injector but ain't been able to pinpoint which one yet.
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Went to go and start my truck this morning and noticed after it was running that it sounded like a misfire, then i seen the smoke... I shut the truck down and lifted the hood and seen that somehow i had a high pressure fuel injector supply line on the Lh side break off. The line that goes from the fuel rail to the injector port on the valve cover (theres 4 of them on a side). There doesn't seem to be an o-ring or anything on them, they are just pressed over and tighten down.
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I have 2006 ford f250 6.0 diesel. I was changing the fuel filter on the frame rail and noticed a lot of dirt in the housing . I tried to remove the plug to drain water to see if i could get out some of the dirt. But the bolt just turned and wouldn't come out. It wouldn't tighten either. I went ahead and cleaned as much dirt as i could and changed the filter. How to get the bolt out....... I just bought the truck so i don't have any prior maintenance history...
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Ok. I have a 2015 6.7 power stroke and my fuel return line clip keeps falling off. And goes into limp mode. It has happen twice and in come up with code p0088. And I push it back on start the truck and it is fine. But idk why it is doing it
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2005 PSD 6.0L Excursion ... I suspect that have a fuel leak at the fuel line fittings near the driver side cylinder head. (I believe that it is fuel, since it is so clear, I guess I should collect a few drops and see if it burns vs. coolant.)
It appears to be at the junction of the fuel lines. This is the point where the fluid drops off the tubing and falls down. The clip that holds the two tubes together at the joint is very dirty, the one below them is clean. The tag on the line that is at the joint leaking is part number 3c34-9j338-ag. Is there a o-ring in side the joint? Do I need to replace both hoses of the joint? I can't find any posting of a history of this fuel line leaking.
Or... is it that the joint never fail, and the leak is up tube? I can't see any where it is coming out when viewing it from the top.
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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Car is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
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I am an inspector and my truck is my office. I have my printer, computer and phone booster running off my 110v all day. Having issues with the 6.7 idling for hours?
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I got a 6.0 in 2006 tow truck happens to be after using the truck for 2 to 3 hours the truck stalls out while driving can seem to figure this problem out , I change
ICP
FUEL PUMP
FUEL FILTERS
INJECTORS 1-3-5-7
Can't seem to figure it out...
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I recently bought a used 2015 F250. When the fuel level reached 1/4 tank it became hard to start. Sometimes up to 6 seconds of cranking to get it to start. I filled it up with fresh diesel and it fired up as soon as I turned the key. A week later the problem returned, this time I was above 1/2 tank. I run the recommended additives, I changed both fuel filters, but it didn't work. I have only had the truck 3 weeks, and it still has a warranty. There are no fault codes, and the truck run great once started. What could be wrong.
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Ok so the title isn't completely true. It starts. But when it's cold it takes a couple tries. When I say cold I mean Cali cold. Like low 40s. BUT when I have her facing downhill she will start up every time on the first try. What could be causing this?
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I have a 1983 Nissan Sentra with a Hitachi carburetor. The fuel in the float bowl seems to drain completely after sitting for 48 hrs. Is this normal? If not, what is the solution to preventing this fuel loss?
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I replaced the speed sensor in the differential yesterday, but it didn't make a lick of difference. I've been having intermittent problems with the speedo ever since I bought the truck. When the speedo starts acting up, the truck will sometimes momentarily cut out and buck a couple of times. It was first mentioned this post, post # 35. I had the truck in the shop for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fittings, and when I got it back it ran worse than before as detailed here in post #1. It turned out I had a torn IPR screen.
I replaced that and it cleared up all of the problems I had except for the speedo problem I originally had. The truck actually ran perfectly on the way home from work yesterday, about 20 miles. No speedo problems and no cutting out. This is not unusual, as the problem is only intermittent. I put the new VSS in last night but did not drive it until this morning. This morning, same thing again, speedo swinging crazily. When cruising about 70 it the speedo would suddenly jump up to about 90 and that is when the truck would cut out and buck a couple of time. The VSS is a Dorman product and proudly displays "MADE IN CHINA".
Should I try a better quality sensor? Rock Auto sells an Airtex/Wells sensor that seems to be of good quality, but I can't determine where it was manufactured. The only reason I bought the Dorman is because I could get it next day from Amazon. Should I be looking at another source for the problem? This is very discouraging because this one thing is what is keeping the truck from being mechanically sound, and I'm trying to get it ready to tow an RV this summer.
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Ok, so I have a Viair onboard compressor supplying air to airbags, train horn and fitting in the rear. With all that, I have multiple connections and some leak ever so slightly making the compressor cycle ever few hours. Question: Is there some sealant I can use with push on fittings and connectors to eliminate the leaks?
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I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
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