Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Front Leveling Kit Causing Premature Wear
Apr 9, 2014
Previous owner of my truck installed a front leveling kit (2" aluminum shims under the coil spring seats) and was told by a dealer that it definitely lead to the wear and tear on the front end, specifically the track bar and track bar ball joints. They also stated it causing the truck to still pull to the left even when aligned because the geometry was off. My truck has 56k miles on it.
I was informed of this after months of trying to correct the death wobble. After 4 alignments at NTB, I took it to the dealer for diagnoses. I paid them to do the labor of replacing the track bar, but elected to remove the leveling spacers myself. Came out in about 45 mins, but had to purchase the shorter stock seat bolt from the dealer which was only available as a package with the coil spring seat...
Truck now rides better and seems perfectly aligned, before it pulled hard to the left. Wish I would have known about this earlier...
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I have a 2014 Supercab Ecoboost F150, which has 37k KM on it (23k miles). I work at sea for 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off so the truck sits a fair bit. I had it in the dealer for scheduled servicing and they noticed the inside pads on both front brakes were wearing significantly more than the outside (4mm vs 7mm). The lube guy at the time had suggested sticking calipers and that they'd be warranty.
A few days later I brought the truck back in to have the brakes looked at and an unrelated warranty item done. They looked and said the calipers aren't sticking and the rotors are grooved and rusted, particularly the inside surface. They wanted to put new pads on and turn the rotors for 400 bucks.
I had a hard time believing it wasn't the calipers, and I was having a hard time getting a good explanation from the service writer of what was going on. So I took the truck back and pulled the pass side tire off in the driveway to take a good look.
As far as I can tell, the calipers are free. The slide pins are nicely lubed and are free, and the pads are free to move in the anti-rattle clips. I squeezed the piston back with a set of C clamps and it seemed to be good. Also, the pads are wearing more or less evenly (not tapered or anything), just the inside is worn significantly more than the outside.
So, rotors wearing out in 23k miles? They aren't really warped, just heavily grooved. My theory at this point is that the weeks the truck spends sitting allows too much corrosion to build up on the rotor, which is getting caught up and wearing down the pads and rotor. Maybe the outside of the rotor isn't nearly as bad because it gets hosed down and washed more frequently?
Inside rotor surface
Outside rotor surface
Inside pad surface.
I still have 7 months of bumper to bumper warranty. Ford says the only cover brakes if the damage is caused by a caliper, so I think I'm out of luck on that front.
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I am finally thinking of leveling out my 2012 f-250. First of, I have the FX4 off road package on it, I guess with heavier duty shocks. When I pull my camper the back end of my truck sags quite a bit, it actually sags a lot with just my polaris sportsman 4 wheeler loaded in it. So I was wondering would a 2.5 inch leveling kit with a 4-5 inch block in the rear work? Would I have to add air bags to solve my sagging problems? Would I be better off just getting a whole suspension lift kit?
I had a 2.5" level kit with a couple inch block in the rear on my f-150 with 35s and I loved the look, not to mention you couldn't beat the price.
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24,000 miles, car is totally stock.
Both of my front tires have the cords hanging on on the extreme inside at a really odd angle.
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Premature tire wear and faulty wheel alignment issues on 2004 Touareg V8 with 10,000 miles. My dealer informed me that my original tires, Continental 4X4 Contact 255/55R18s were about to need replacement and that there were known issues with the tire compound and alignment specifications. I have had the vehicle about 14 months. He said it was over twelve months but he would bring it up with the district representative. I told him that I thought this came under concealed defects and I expected VW to replace the tires and align all four wheels to whatever the current spec. Are there VW bulletins covering this I can obtain copies of?
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I am tearing down my junkyard engine to prep it to put into my truck and I came across this on the rear main seal... is this a wear ring?
It kinda looks like a oil slinger. My new seal is on the way so I have nothing to compare it to.
I don't want to be yanking on it if it's supposed to stay.
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Ok haven't been on here in a LONG time. Sold my '12 and bought a DRW '14 F350 to tow our fifth wheel. Just got back from a 775 mile round trip pulling our fifth wheel. My dad noticed my passenger front tire was going bald on the outside. I said yeah it was pulling to the right and thought my tire was low but when I checked it was the right psi.
Turning to the left I was starting to get a grinding type noise. If I rolled my passenger window down you could here something just grinding away but when you straightened out nothing.
So I took it into the dealer and they tell me the outside tire wear is normal. I said it has 22,000 miles and the passenger tire will be bald on the outside in 4,000 more miles or less. Said they can't hear any noise, yet my wife can hear it, kids can hear it and people outside the truck can.
It's not normal for the passenger or drivers tire for that matter to go bald in less than 25,000 miles? Tires have always been kept to proper psi, I've towed only about 5,000 miles total with it. They are also taking the worthless rancho rebranded shocks off and going with bilstiens. I should have replaced them 10,000 miles ago. They are horrible shocks.
It really torques me that they have it for a week and can't find anything wrong. When turning to the left it's almost like bump steer in 4wd just not quite as bad but with also a grinding sound that you can hear inside the cab and can feel it in the floor board. Nothing evident but just looking under the truck.
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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So at low idle my fan is running like 230rpm according to torque pro. I think this is causimg my ect to rise when at idle. It's usually 192-194* but if I'm idling in traffic or just In general (after it's been running a while) it climbs to 195.8, 197, 199.2, 201, 203, 204.8. Haven't seen it get higher than the 204. Now once I get moving again it will lower back down. I can see where I have flow into the degas not to mention the water pump is new. Could my low fan speed be my issue? I believe it should be more around 500rpm at low idle.
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I just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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So I went from a 3 inch to a 2 inch leveling kit. After tightening everything up the sway bar was a hair off. I pulled it out of the garage and got it lined up. Fast foreward the next day and went on a 200 mile trip hauling an empty goosneck and noticed it one time. The day following the the truck has went into this horrible sway through the tires back and forth that makes it undrivable. Looking at tie rod ends the one at the pitman arm is shot. I order the whole front steering kit from xrf and I'm going to replace. I know I also have some play in the box but I have for awhile. So what else would there be to look at? I need to get this fixed. I will update after the steering is put back together.
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I just had the tie rods replaced and a front end alignment on my VW Golf. The tires that were on the front were moved to the back because of some wear on the inside edge. The tires currently on the front look brand new, but the car pulls to the right more than it did before I had any of the work done. The place where I got the work done told me I would need to replace the two tires with wear but they are still in mostly good condition. They are telling me now the pulling is because the tires on the rear have wear. Can wear on rear tires really cause my car to pull so significantly to the right? The tires are only two years old. I do not want to replace them yet. The car front wheel drive.
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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What's the best way to remove front rotors from the hub without damaging them on my F350 4X4?
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Coming up the mountains here in Ca last night. Snowing and slippery. Put truck in 4x4 light came in saying engaged. Driving very slowly and almost slid off road with two kids and wife in car. Then noticed that there was no front traction happening. Locked hubs manually and all was ok. I think this is a serious problem. If in auto and dash confirms 4x4 engaged then it should be. I am just very lucky to not have seriously hurt my family or someone else. Is this a recall on Fords part I truly think they need to be held accountable if so.
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Bought this truck back in September. I thought the ball joints were going out. So decided to replace everything i would think of. The ball joints, hub bearings, all the tie rod end parts, sway bar links & bushings, and the seals around front u-joints. Now i still have the same rattle. Sounds like a piece of metal rattling in a tube. Really it sounds like the ball joints are out, which i know they are not. Also i greased them again (Just to make sure) and no change.
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My new truck has developed a squeak in the front suspension every time you go over little dips and bumps in the road.Which is all the time.
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Is there an easy How To write up on how to remove the front grill? I want to install some grill inserts I picked up.
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Since I bought my F350 last Jan. I have several times had prolonged instances of a severe grinding noise coming from the front end, seemingly the left side. At slow speed in a turn (shallow or steep) a horrible grinding sound is apparent as well as a vibration in the steering wheel. At 9k miles a dealer said it was the wheel bearings and replaced both sides. I now have 12.5K and it is worse than ever. My local dealer says it is normal but that has to be bull. It is is worse after I drop my fiver after towing. It is a 4x2 with the 6.7 diesel. I love the performance but this front end issue is a real problem.
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