Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Front End Bounce While Driving On The Freeway
Nov 4, 2014
I have a 2011 F250 6.7 XLT crew cab with just over 50,000 miles. A couple of weeks ago while heading to work I experienced a very violent Front end bounce while driving on the freeway. My Speed was around 55-70. I experienced this front end bounce on after hitting a patched portion of asphalt on the freeway. I lost complete control of my vehicle and had to slow down almost to a complete stop in order to regain control. When I got to work I checked my tires, wheels and under carriage. I found under abnormal. Well it happened again today. Again on my way to work I hit a bumpy stop in the road and experienced this "Death wobble" (youtube it). So I decided to take it to the dealer and have it looked at. On the way there it happened a couple more times.
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When I'm speeding up or slowing down, right at about 37mph every time my front end starts bouncing and it's annoying. It's by no means severe, I just don't like it. I don't think it's as bad as what a lot of you are experiencing with the death wobble? Maybe it's just starting and will get worse?
Also, I'm experiencing a clicking noise almost as if something is loose under the front end when I hit bumps in the road or off road.. Not sure what that could be
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Just a quick question, my serpentine belt fell off while driving on the freeway today and wondering what are the possible causes for this too happen? First things that came too mind were tensioner or worn out belt. Hard to believe the belt would be worn out though as it only has 65k miles.
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2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
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Why I am smelling coolant? I have a 2004 6.0 SD.It generally happens when accelerating up to freeway speeds or passing cars, Medium to hard acceleration and the smell is strong and will go away after a few min. The obvious thing is to check for a leak but I haven’t seen any.
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2001 7.3 4wd srw ext cab auto 173,000 miles. Truck rides rough at certain speed. Worse at 45 mph. I have replaced tranny mounts,new Michelin tires,replaced aftermarket rims with rims that are correct and balanced.Transmission was rebuilt,works very good, I have receipt. This truck had 2" extenders on the hubs when I bought it,have since removed these,that worked with bounce issues. When I replaced tires I thought I had cured the issue but now after 1000 miles it is back. I am ready to just ride it out until it becomes worse and identifies itself. Tires needed replacing,so did tranny mounts,it is frustrating bouncing along not knowing if it could be an easy fix or not.
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
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My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
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I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
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I was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
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My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
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I have searched and the only thing close is bad sensor for water in fuel light but it does not say they lost power. When driving or leaving from a stopped position, if I put any extra load on engine by pressing on accelerator pedal fast the water in fuel light comes on and the glow plug light comes on and the truck loses all power. Not 12V power just engine power. I have to let off the pedal and the lights go out and I have power again. Until I press the pedal hard again and it does it again. I have drained the filters and replaced them and still the same.
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I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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So I have a no start on my 6.0. I was driving and went to accelerate and had no power, pulled off of the road and was idling rough, I checked for fuel leaks-none. I put it in drive and engine cut off and wouldn't start again, changed the ICP (threw a code) still nothing, FICM is good, ICP is 950 psi at cranking, IPR is only at 54%. I'm at a loss of what to do next besides looking at the IPR, and I do not have the equipment for a leak test.
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Driving down the road at 55, the truck just stalled out and won't restart. This has happened before but it always started back up right away. Put a scan tool on it last week and it's giving me an injector 1 low pressure, and egr.
I've read that running the truck at low voltage could fry the FICM and cause all sorts or problems. I just replaced the alternator this week because the batteries always drained while the truck was sitting.
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I have 2013 F250. 65k miles. 4" skyjacker lift. DPF, ERG delete. SCT programmer w/wicked wheel put in the turbo, KN Air intake..35" Ntto grapplers. I have a double shock steering stabalizer(skyjacker).
My questions are....drives great up till 75mph, then I get shimmy. Doesn't feel like the steering wheel, but more in the truck. It never did it until I went from 34" tires to 35"...before the lift. Also I wanna go to a 37" tire? I have lots of HP and Tourque. Love the truck. But I drive mainly all road miles. A lot. So looking to make it all fit together better...
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What is MAP and what should it be? Mine is 15.0 KOEO and fluctuates from there to 25.0 or so when driving normally.
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Just to give you a run down on my truck. It's a 06 F-350 4x4 supercrew 6.0 with 78,994 miles. The trucks has been studded with Apr and aftermarket head gasket, Powermax turbo with a wicked wheel, RCD EGR delete kit, 5" turbo back MBRP exhaust, Driven Deisel regulated fuel return system, high REV valve spring kit, EBT sensor, 58volt swamps diesel FICM, edge evolution, within the last 4000 miles New oil cooler, crank sensor, cam sensor, IPR valve, ICP, batteries and lift pump. I think I'm missing a couple things but that's the layout.
Now for my problems recently took the truck to Florida from Illinois towing a 8500# boat. Before I left I had the oil cooler changed, Rotella T6 5w40 ,New filters And 2 bottles of REVX. The try k didn't miss a beat on the 1300 miles trek down. It sat for 3 days before coming back up lite truck. I was gonna drive straight thru and with 1100 miles down and 200 to go the truck acted like it was running out of fuel and died at 90mph. Fuel Gage read 1/2 tank to go.
After letting it site a 1/2 hr it finally fired back up and drove 5 miles before doing it again. This went on 3 more times. I even limped it to fill up the tank thinking the gauge was bad. Nope did it again And called for a tow truck. This was in mid october and 20 miles ago. Since then I've replaced fuel filters, lift pump, IPR, ICP, cam and crank sensors, sent the FICM in to have tested, replaced batteries. No the problem is worse. It Now has created a serious miss when it's cold till 90 then it Idles smooth but keeps dying on me like it did when it was towed.
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172k on the girl now. Getting a little vibration while driving yesterday. Looks like it's time for new U-joints, carrier bearing pinion seal. Thinking of going grease less again since these lasted 172k. What brand should I go with? Or should I install ones that are grease able?
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