Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Filter Replacement Without Draining Oil
Oct 20, 2012
Can I replace my n/g oil filter that is defective w/o draining oil? I did oil change and filter is leaking, bad gasket. If I remove oil filter will it only drain what is in filter or entire engine?
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What is the typical delay for the base oil pressure "switch" on the dash to register? When I first start up in the morning it takes about 3-4 seconds for the oil pressure to register. Same day, every start after it registers pressure almost instantly. Is this normal?
I'm thinking something is draining down overnight, probably the drain valve in the oil filter housing isn't sealing correctly?
Is this a problem as the motor is running without oil to the main/cam bearings for that short time period?
I went thru not having the correct oil filter cap last year and with a non-stock cap & short Motorcraft that it would take 2-3 seconds every startup as it had to refill the oil filter housing every time.
Now running the stock Motorcraft "short" cap & filter.
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I am changing fuel filters for the first time. I started by draining the DFCM into a quart container, but after that filled up 6 times I switched to a bucket. So far I have drained over 2 gallons and it shows no signs of stopping. Initially the truck was on a slight incline. That's the way I have always done fuel filters, with the tank lower than the filter. After the first gallon came out, I rolled the truck down to level ground.
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Anyway, Just bought a used 2015 F350. I want to drain the water separator as the dealer can't tell me when it was done last. Anyway, I read how to do it, but once you drain it, what do you do with the diesel that drains out with?
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2013 f250 6.7 yesterday during drive through heavy rain fall noticed some clean water draining on my bare feet on passenger side of the truck right below glove compartment.
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I have 2006 ford f250 6.0 diesel. I was changing the fuel filter on the frame rail and noticed a lot of dirt in the housing . I tried to remove the plug to drain water to see if i could get out some of the dirt. But the bolt just turned and wouldn't come out. It wouldn't tighten either. I went ahead and cleaned as much dirt as i could and changed the filter. How to get the bolt out....... I just bought the truck so i don't have any prior maintenance history...
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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2004 F550 with a 6.0. I had to clean out my fuel tank, replace the HFCM and filter on top of the engine. When I start the truck it will run for 30 seconds or so, start running rough then die. I opened the cap on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine to make sure the fuel was getting there. I turned the key on and the fuel bowl quickly filled up.
After a short time however, the fuel drained out. To where I do not know. I don't think this is normal as every time I've changed the upper filter on a 6.0 it is always full of fuel. Why could this one be draining out and could that be the issue why the truck dies after starting and running for a short period of time. I changed the o-ring on the cap and the new HFCM was purchased from Ford.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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OK what is the trick to changing the oil filter on the 6.7 without making a mess. My last truck, which was another brand, if I would let the truck sit for a couple of hours, I could get the filter loose, put a zip lock bag around the filter, & remove the filter without any drips. With the 6.7, even if I let the truck sit overnite, it seems like the oil doesn't drain from above the filter, & as soon as it comes loose my hand gets a bath. Any tricks to changing the oil filter.
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I had pretty much ruled out getting a bypass oil filter because I've read multiple times that the HEUI injectors of a 6.0 liter shears the oil regardless of filtration so that you shouldn't run extended oil change intervals even with the extra filtration. I'm wondering though if the cleaner oil would benefit the lifters and injectors within the regular oil change intervals, and if what I read before is correct about the shearing and not running extended oil change intervals. If I could run to say 7500 miles and it was better for the lifters and injectors than not running a bypass and changing oil at 5000 miles, then I might say it would justify it. I hear more and more about lifters in the 6.0 and want to everything I can to keep them operable.
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Ok so the speakership wants 200 bucks to replace and the filter alone is 100 bucks. Found some at auto zone for 65 and 85 or so. How often do you change your filter and where do you buy them?
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Can I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
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Within the last month I've had 2 cracked fuel filters the filter up by the engine...
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I pulled my air filter for inspection last weekend. The 6.7L airbox is segmented into two parts - One part is very large and contains the pleated paper air filter, as well as the air intake in the base. The other part is small and contains a half-section of the pleated filter, with a fine foam filter below. However, the foam extends out through a sizable hole in the bottom of the small compartment and runs down outside of the box nearly to the base of the entire air box (held on by some plastic straps).
What is the purpose of the foam and "secondary" air intake? Why not simply use one compartment with the paper air filter?
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New to me 2006 F350 6.0 dually. Going to change oil and filter as well as the transmission fluid.
Should I replace the transmission filter on the Auto I have or just have Jiffy Lube do their thing?
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I use motor craft filters on all my fords but I'm considering jumping ship on my 6.7l... Here's why:
Even with a small punch that is just shy of the total length of the filter, I still get a boat load of oil leaking out the side of the filter when I unscrew it. I'm pretty sure the anti drain back valve is still holding oil in the filter mount...which is what it is supposed to do.
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How many miles typically getting out of air filters? I kept watching the air filter gauge and never saw it changing as the miles added up. I'm at 22k miles now and finally opened it up and looked at it and decided it was time for the first change even though the gauge was not indicating it needed to be.
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Shot in HD as are all my vids, view in YouTube and force a 720p view to see better detail.
(Tap the title bar at the top of the video box; at YouTube tap the three vertical dots at the top right; select the quality gear icon; select 720p).
Over at TDS I did pictorials, some of which are in my TMT Facebook page.
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I spoke with a Ford diesel tech yesterday that said that he doesn't like coolant filters because if you don't change them frequently they will degrade and pieces of filter medium will then clog the oil cooler. If this is true, then that would completely negate the purpose of the coolant filter. I'm hopeful that it is flawed thinking as I am using a coolant filter system and would hate to find that it was a mistake.
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Well I finally had time to change out my composite oil pan to the metal one. Nothing was wrong with the old one but Ive seen the composite pans get hit by a rock and crack so I decide to get the metal one. It didnt take long once I had the oil drained and its very easy to get to. Once i had the old pan off I did find two piece of sludge stuck to the oil pickup screen, they had a sliver of aluminum in them. My oil reports have been coming back with high aluminum content so I am not really sure what to think being my motor had 33k miles on it now.
I also changed out the fuel filter and when I dropped the frame mounted filter I found about a teaspoon of rust in it. I'm not one to run my truck down to E but I admit I did so twice since the last filter change. Since I found the fuel filter kit for 60 buck(ford dealer wanted $140) I think I will move my fuel filter changes to 10k miles instead of 15k. Last but not least I also added SPE 6.7 Full Lock Diff Kit which allows the locked rear end to stay engaged past 20 mph. It was a simple 10 min installation with just a few wires and easy directions to follow
New oil pan
Composite pan
Old pan off and view of oil pickup
Two pieces of sludge that came off oil pickup screen
New pan on
Rust in the bottom
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