Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Fifth Wheel Bed Mount Hole Cover / Pucks
Aug 11, 2011
I was looking for something to cover the four holes in the bed that my fifth wheel hitch fits into. The hole size is 2 inches. What is the diameter of the ford OEM pucks that come with the fifth wheel prep package. By the way I really like my new 18K pull-rite super glide hitch worked great my first trip with new fifth wheel. Pulled about 13000 lb trailer on 1200 mile from central California up to Grants Pass, Oregon and back down the coast. I used 93 gallons and got an average of 12.3 mile per gallon. Truck worked like a charm. No issues.
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I have a 2011 F-350 that came with the 5th wheel prep package which has rubber, two piece hole covers. Every time I slide something out of the bed across these covers they pop off or come partly off. I don't have a 5th wheel trailer and no plans to get one. Having trouble with the covers and come up with a better cover that would stay on when sliding cargo in and out. I hate just leaving the holes open to collect things. I wonder if some sort of galvanized electrical box cover would work with some sort of mount system under it?
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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After driving, i smelled something horrible burning. When I get home, I get on my creeper and roll under to look for anything suspicious, and I find this. It is not where the drain plug in the pan is, it's in front of that. I checked the temp when I was driving but it never got high. I really need my transmission to not explode on me right now, I have a lot of driving to do.
Here's a gallery where there are some pictures....
Photo Album - Imgur....
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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I noticed when I shut off the truck about 30-40 minutes later I'll open the degas bottle cap and notice there is no pressure.
I used a coolant pressure tester kit and pumped in 16PSI but couldn't hear or find the leak.
I'm going to buy a smoke machine in a month or two but until then, can I still drive the truck ?
I'm guessing it is a pin hole leak somewhere as once I shut the truck off... there is a lot of coolant pressure.
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Did my first oil change with Rotella T6. I drained, replaced filter, filled with 13 quarts new. Started engine, let it idle about a minute, turned off, checked level and everything was good. Then I drove about 3 or 4 miles just to make sure everything sounded ok, and when I got back home checked level one more time. After driving, the oil level was still fine, no leaks detected anywhere, but there was smoke coming out of the dipstick hole when I pulled the dipstick. Is this normal?
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When I pulled my HPOP cover the other day, noticed some RTV on each side where you have the small step down from the block and the piece of metal on the backside of the pump housing. The new gasket I installed had he step down and looked like it would fill the gap, but is the RTV necessary?
There was a previous leak on the turbo drain tube that the dealer I bought it from tried to stuff some kind of fiberglass material in there to absorb the oil. I half wonder if the dealer didn't try to "fix" the back of the cover leaking by cramming some RTV in there. I have to pull the cover again in a couple days and wanted to see if I needed to do anything special when installing the cover?
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2003 xlt with the 6.0 and has an oil leak at the HPOP cover as far as he can tell. Looking for a good write up that explains how to get to where we need to go. Also maybe a list of o-rings and gaskets that will be needed on the journey. Is there anything else that may need attention while we are in that deep. I have read about the SVT fitting but not sure what that is or where. The EGR has been deleted.
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As far as I can tell, the rectangular breather is full of some type of stainless mesh. I cannot separate the halves. I may have pulled a bonehead move and left it tin the solvent tank and didn't realize it was still on....ofcourse it was full of solvent. Just cleaned it real well. I drained it and am going to let it dry out before install next week.
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My old pipe to the heater core coming off the front cover was frozen in place, and long story short, the flange where the tube goes in with the o-ring broke.
I found part number 3C3Z-6608-B, which is the Motorcraft Front Cover kit and includes the LPOP and water pump, gaskets, seals, etc.
Another few hundred bucks and more time I don't have, but is that the right part? Is it possible to just get the cover? Considering the age of the motor, I'm OK with replacing all these parts, but money is getting a little thin at this point.
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Is there a MPG gain with synthetic oil or adding a tonneau cover?
I'm planning on doing the tonneau but curious if any noticeable differences with either.
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Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
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I have an oil leak on a 04 f250 6.0 stock. It has 292000 miles on her. It started as a few drips on the pavement about the size of a quarter and now has escalated to a steady trickle. It's on the driver's side in front of engine running down the corner of the block and dripping off the oil pan. I pulled intake plenum and everything and I thought it was coming out of the valve cover but now it looks like its just under the valve cover. It looks like its coming out of the front corner of the head. Its wet there and looks wet around the glow plugs. I cant run it now as I've drained the oil and coolant. I don't have a gauge or anything and its plain stock.
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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Was on the way home today and was taking a long sweeping left-hand curve at 60 and got a horrible shake in the steering wheel. Kinda scared me a bit and let out of the throttle a bit. Didn't happen after and never has before. I'm under the impression it is more shocks maybe then steering, Reason I say that although I don't get a lot of bounce if the road isn't perfectly smooth I can really tell it. What do ya'll think?
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Not persistent, but the squeak I had where peeps thought it was the brake warning is back, but not constant.
Seems to happen above 30, and not sure what the other conditions are (maybe hot brakes). but it sounds like only the front right this time.
I've new Rotors and pads. I am on the road right now, been since the 20th and wont be back till the 2nd or 3rd.
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I've got a 'new to me' 4" Lift 6.0L PSD Diesel, 2005. At 60 mph, especially 75 mph, there's some 'play' or float feeling in the steering wheel. Is that a normal thing for a 4" lift? and nothing to worry about? (the dealer that sold it said they put new ball joints in it. No cheap shock problem, right?)
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Ok so my left front wheel hub (from what it sounds like) might be on its way out. Upon braking there is a "thunk" that sounds like its coming from said wheel hub and I can feel it in the floor. Also when turning sharply at low speed in (either in 2h 4h 4l) and then braking there is also a lovely grinding noise coming from again what sounds like the wheel hub area. So without tearing open the wheel hub what can I do to actually properly diagnose without taking it to a shop.
Also, lets a assume its the wheel hub and associated parts, what all do i need to buy parts and tools wise in addition to the wheel hub itself. I've seen 2 or 3 trucks so far this winter with shattered hubs.
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I have a 2015 Platinum Superduty that came with a heated steering wheel but cannot figure how to turn it on and off. I have looked for a dash switch and in the climate portion of the touch screen with no luck. My wife's car has a simple dash mounted switch and also a temp sensor that cuts it on automatically when cold. No such luck with truck.
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Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
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