Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Fast Idle When Cold Remote Start
Nov 13, 2012
Fast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.
It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.
And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.
My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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I have been debating if i should use seafoam engine treatment. My truck has been having issues with the first cold start of the day. I've noticed the rough idle that accompanies the cold start. I live in Denver so this truck sees alot of stop n go traffic. Will seafoam do anything about the dirty fuel injectors. They have to be replaced here soon but will adding seafoam solution buy me more time. If so, what are the steps on how to add. The can isn't very detailed on instructions and Internet isn't being useful. I have an 04 F250 Lariat Power Stroke 6.0L diesel
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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I have 2 fully functioning keys but I am looking at trying to program a miscut key I got for my truck just for the fob. What Id like to do is basically leave my key in the ignition and have a FOB with the actual key cut off so it is only the head containing the fob. I can remote start the truck, unlock the doors and then get in a use the key in the ignition as normal. I just hate the hugs key on my key ring. Is there a way to program the key fob, not the PATS key. Its miscut so thats not an option.
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I just bought a 01 f250 and started to hear/feel thia ticking/rattling noise. I have read a couple forums on the matter but I'm not really sure on what to replace ?
[URL].....
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So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
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I bought and installed the remote start last weekend, cut the keys and programmed them. all thats left is to activate. i have access to a snapon modif computer, can activate it with this or something similar, or does the dealer HAVE to do it?
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What option level has remote start as standard?
Or is it an add on option?
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When I bought my truck it had a ford remote start in it. This has only happened like 2-3 times.. when I remote start right after my truck starts there is this huge screech and obviously it worries me.
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Had a lot of snow in the North East last week. Tried to use the remote start three times without any luck. Cleaned off the windshield and it worked. At best the remote is a weak system with very little range. How to use it or make it work better?
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I have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
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2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
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This is tough one to search on. Most of the results talk about a poor idle or the high idle mod. I simply have no cold idle up. It used to work a few years ago but doesn't anymore. I live in Colorado and it's definitely cold enough for the high idle to kick in. I have no codes, nothing bad shows up on the Auto Enginuity.
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It would be nice if you could have the rear seat heaters come on with the remote start, but only when you knew you would want them on. Like tonight 5 of us are going out and it will be hours and in the 20's when we get back to the truck. Where I park in the lot is at the limit of the remote start so it is farther than I want to walk to manually turn them on (plus doesn't that defeat the purpose of remote start.)
I was hoping that if they were powered on when I shut the truck down, they may come on at restart but nope. I tried a few combos of truck running on remote, and with the key. Is there a secret way by chance?
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I've had good running on the truck but lately in the cold the idle has a weird skip to it like it's missing on a cyl. It will start fine, and run fine for about 30 seconds. Then it will start to mis. When giving pedal it goes away and it's driveable but it doesn't sound right. After a bit of running it's fine for the duration while warm. My monitors are I think all good, 48.5v, icp about 1250 psi. Is this the famed "injector stiction"?
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Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
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2003, not deleted, everything was stock except for he put a Bully Dog on it with can tunes. Died on him was replaced ICP started up ran horrible was throwing different injector codes, IPR was at 84% at idle, plus had a lot of pressure on degas bottle.
Just finished studding, deleting, oil cooler, ICP, and injectors. She started up fairly easy, only to have the IPR still at 84%, ICP bouncing between 670s to 790s this just after start up from the work. Truck still runs horrible and still throwing #5 injector code also using AE and injector 5 wont Buzz. So, would be safe to say Injector harness and IPR sensor?
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean .... It's 98* on a cool day , when "cold" I mean just started for many hours.
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