Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: F350 - Rear Parking Brake Sticking / Wheel Started Smoking Severely?
Aug 10, 2011
A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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Any recommendations on brake calipers and hose?
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The truck seems to be smoking a lot when I do start it then once I drive it for a second the smoke stops. The truck will not start after the engine gets hot..
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2005 f350 6.0. I was driving my truck and it seemed like someone had shut the fuel off to truck ! i had it towed to the house and was doing research and watch a video on checking the ficm with a volt meter..when i touch the positive post from meter the ficm started smoking and sizzzling...but back tothe truck when i try to start it i have no pre warm up sounds coming from the truck and the truck just turns over strong ..no start...i was going to replace the ficm but didnt want to spend the money to fry another if that is not my problem..also the # 5 fuse under the hood keeps blowing.
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Have a 2004 F350 dually diesel 6.0 - will now be replacing the passenger rear wheel seal for the third time in 8 months - replaced 12/2014 again in 6/2015 - took in for extensive engine pairs 7/8 got back 8/27 and have to replace the wheel seal again. Cannot figure out why blowing out so often - what to do to stop it from blowing out? Called the dealer and they were absolutely no support at all - mentioned something about a thicker seal?
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Just over 7000 miles all of a sudden I got this loud grinding noise in the rear end like a brake locked up. Pulled into a parking lot. Don't think it's brakes. Put the truck in reverse it got even louder for a second then it quieted down after that. Naturally this happened on a Saturday.
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Got home today and smelled the "oil burning" smell. Blue smoke, didn't smell like brake pads. The smoke was evident from the right rear wheel. Put her in the garage and pulled the wheel. By the time this was done there was no smoke and no fluid anywhere, but there may not have been when it was smoking either. The drum was hot, the axle housing was not hot until closer to the drum/disc/wheel. The differential was slightly warm. Vent was not plugged. No obvious accumulation of lube or fluid on the inside of the wheel. Plenty of disc pad left. The actuator for the emergency brake that sticks out the back of the brake/plate assembly was super hot.
If I decide to pull the hub/rotor to inspect the brake shoes am I getting in far enough to commit to doing a full hub/bearing/seal inspect replacement? I'm getting old enough to pay a shop for this stuff and save my back, but if it's a no-brainer repair to get new seals I'd like to do it and save some bucks. Might as well do both sides right?
I'll be driving cross-country in June with a slide-in camper and want it done rather than a band aid job. It's never been checked before. 2006 F350 -- 150k miles. I'll keep searching the forum for answers but would like some opinions...
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Have 50,000 mile on my 2011 F350 6.7 and up until today the truck has been flawless. This is my weekend vehicle and sees very light duty hauling fishing gear to my boat (100 miles hwy) and pulling my 7x12 enclose trailer with goose decoys. On a couple of occasions pulling my 29 CC from marina to my home and back. Took truck in for oil change and tire rotation, service advisor informs me I have 2mm on rear brakes and 3mm on fronts. Not sure why rears have more wear than fronts. Schedule to have brakes done for today and now find out that front right caliper is sticky and they want to replace both front calipers. I cannot believe that a 2011 SD F350 with 50,000 miles and of that mostly highway needs brakes let a lone calipers are going bad. Service manger tried to tell me that brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years, to which I responded that I have Ford perform all scheduled maintenance. He went on to say that this is not scheduled maintenance, wtf bs is he telling me, if it is necessary then it would be scheduled maintenance. Truck gave zero indication of stuck caliper, no sound and no excessive brake dust on wheel.
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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I have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.
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Ever since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
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I have an '03 F350 6.0 that occasionally wouldn't start until it had cooled off for about 30 minutes. A friend of mine recommended adding a little marvel mystery oil to the oil system, I did research this and found no negative posts, but now it has been 2 hours and it still won't start. Could i have added too much and thinned the oil out too much?
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I have a '15 Ford F-350 w/ 6.7 - 34k miles. Most of my driving is towing a 30'RV trailer. Today, without any trailer, I was on a local interstate and at around 65 mph on a bumpy stretch of highway the death wobble started. Had it come and go 3 times in a few miles requiring me to slow to about 45 or so to stop it. Never had any such happening prior.
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My dad has a 04 f350 6.0 and on his way back from a trip he filled up and drove 60 miles and it started smoking white smoke, after he let it sit a while he added fuel injector cleaner thinking it might have been somewhat bad fuel. Drove it 20 more miles and it it changed to black smoke and started sputtering like it was missing. Blowing a lot of smoke. Took it to ford dealer and they checked for codes and it said the #8 injector was bad and needed replaced. My question is would the injector going bad cause all the smoke and missing?
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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My work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
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I just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
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I have a 2011 F-350 that came with the 5th wheel prep package which has rubber, two piece hole covers. Every time I slide something out of the bed across these covers they pop off or come partly off. I don't have a 5th wheel trailer and no plans to get one. Having trouble with the covers and come up with a better cover that would stay on when sliding cargo in and out. I hate just leaving the holes open to collect things. I wonder if some sort of galvanized electrical box cover would work with some sort of mount system under it?
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I have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
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Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
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I have about 70k miles on my truck and I've noticed just recently that my suspension is squeaking or creaking when I start to turn the wheel. What's the solution.... 2011 6.7 F350 super duty....
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