When I'm at 60 mph and go full throttle, it doesn't seem to down shift enough and the torque seems low. But when I go 1/2-3/4 throttle, I get the power I'm looking for. I'll test it later today and see what gear it shifts to with both.
View 4 RepliesI tried searching here for a pid to get oil pressure. Can't find it. Is it possible to get oil pressure readings on these motors? I assumed it would be because we have a dummy oil pressure gauge on the dash. I thought it would be in the pop up list of gauges on Torque but I didn't see it.
View 6 RepliesSo I got a new tranny about a month ago. Everything works flawlessly. Until today.... Going up hills even small ones feels like I'm towing a house. No torque felling. In 3rd and 4th gear (automatic) it gains boost really fast and peaks at 28 lbs. and coasting downhill it slows itself down. I can go from 60 to 40 without braking in a half mile stretch. I fist noticed something was different when I started to drive home tonight; it makes a sort of whining or howling noise. I can't quite pinpoint where it's coming from. I'm tired of this truck but love it at the same time.
2003 125k miles New tranny New injectors New oil cooler and egr cooler Possible bad HPOP
I am installing Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro on my Yellow Submarine. To keep an eye on things. Well installing it on my tablet, and installing that in my Yellow Sub. I already have the Bluetooth dongle. What to set up, what to monitor, what to test? Etc..... I want to continuously monitor this truck while driving it. Being it went swimming.
View 13 RepliesWith my first tow under my belt from this weekend in my new-to-me truck, I quickly learned that my TC shutters in 5th if I hold fuel down enough to bog the truck before it wants to down shift. The shutters are pretty violent as compared to others I've experienced in Explorers and F150s. When do you know it is time to change it out? Or, is there something else I can or should do before changing it?
View 14 RepliesWas trying to give back to FTE, all have been useful. So I figure I would post a problem solver. Had a nice oil leak traced to cam sensor o ring. All back together now crank no start.
Truck is half in and out of the garage, torque pro isn't pulling any codes. I did accidentally pull my alternator cable out of the connector, luckily had one to replace.
Did I wreck the sensor taking it out? Will have to try and pull the beast out tonight.
Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
View 6 RepliesSearched with no results. What is the correct bolt torque for transmission pan bolts on a 2012 F350 6.7L?
View 14 RepliesI've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
View 5 RepliesBefore taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
Ok so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
View 14 RepliesWhat are the torque specs for front and back rancho 9000xl? Really want to know the front top spec with the rubber bushings that squish flat the most.The rest ill make tight.
View 14 RepliesSo, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
I have a 03 Excursion 6.0 that just developed a transmission leak between the transmission and transfer case. It appears to be the transmission because the transfer case fluid is at the top. I started to notice transmission fluid leaking in my driveway. I have not had any driving issues with the transmission but I am not driving until I correct the problem. If this is the rear transmission seal, how had is it to change this seal? Must I remove the spacer between the transfer case and 5r110 tranny? Any special tools needed?
My temps have stayed at or below 150 if I recall. My fluid is slightly low in the transmission at about 134 operating temperature. The fluid is clean, red and has no burnt odor. My transfer case is topped off. Fluid ran out the fill plug when I removed it.
There is an aluminum square spacer than necks down. It is about 6" long between the transmission output on the excursion and the transfer case. The leak I see is where that spacer meets the transfer case. I see enough for the fluid to leak onto the cross member and to the driveway. I estimate that I have lost less than a 1/2 quart of fluid over a couple weeks.
I have a 2012 6.7 with a Spartan tuner. Threw this code a few months ago. Reset everything, trucks runs great, no issues. Never had this code come up again. I've looked it up and it says, "Internal Control Module Torque Performance". I'm just not sure what this means.
View 2 RepliesI have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
View 6 Replies2003 F250 6.0 ESOF - 4x4 and LOW lights on, TC not shifting
About the truck: 2003 F250 CCLB 6.0L 210k Miles
Heavy Duty Bulletproof Diesel Kit
Warn Front Manual Hubs (vac lines clamped/blocked)
Transfer Case Shift Motor/TCSM is off (I personally have not tested it and am still looking for what to test on it) or I will purchase a new one.
From seller: "What happened is, I accidently put it in 4x4 and when I turned the switch it would not go out. I had to limp it home slowly. When I got home I messed around with it, and could not get it to go back into 2x4. I removed the shift motor, and tested it. It tested ok. I shifted to back to 2x4 with a wrench and left it."
CURRENTLY the TCSM is off the transfer case and is in 2WD. Warn hubs are set to "FREE," seller also noted that this is how he has been driving it for quite sometime. TCSM is in 4x4 LOW, that is what I have to manually shift the transfer case to if I want to mount it up. I have been shifting it using a 14mm open end wrench and with the transmission in neutral. I have not tried turning the TCSM position manually.
Scanning using AE brings up different codes depending on transmission position and which scan is used:
P1812 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Circuit Failure
P1819 Transmission Neutral Safety Switch Short Circuit To Ground
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1876 Transfer Case 2 Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1865 Transfer Case Contact Plate Power Short to Ground
AE scanning for DTCs: P1832 and P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in PARK: P1812, P1832, P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in NEUTRAL: P1812, P1819, P1876
AE scanning with TCSM off: P1865, P1832, P1876
P1865 seems to be solved by simply installing the TCSM.
AE Live Data shows correct indicators for 4WD switch, showing corresponding drive mode in AE as the switch setting but nothing happens. No clunk/thud/movement. I have tried resetting the codes but the 4x4 and LOW lights both stay on. I tried it in park, neutral, engine off and engine on. I tried driving 5-10 mph to relieve any driveline wind up, I tried driving in reverse with front hubs free and locked, gave the same results in AE and no transfer case shifting.
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I
Found a thread with some fuses to check, I have checked fuses #19, 27, 31, 33, 34, 45 and 111 (with a multimeter for continuity),
Relays (first swapping the old ones, then trying new ones), I did the pinpoints from test I, and installed another GEM (same part number as mine but from a 2005 F-350)
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I led to my purchase of a used GEM, not knowing if it is good or bad, I have determined that I get the exact same codes for each AE Scan as the GEM that came with my truck.
I included a photo of my relay box, have any of you seen this type before? There is no other box in the engine bay with twin relays.
Air/Defrost switch works and routes air to switch setting. AC works, DEFROST works.
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
I want to avoid taking this to the dealer if their own service manual and diagnosis is going to have the same results as my testing.
Where do I go from here?
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
Trans has new solenoids in the trans but is shifting too firm sometimes from 1-2 or 2-3.. It is tolerable going up, but when slowing down it jerks really bad from 2-1. Sounds and feels horrible for the trans and miserable during stop and go traffic. Ive had to switch it to Manual and start off in 2nd gear. Im deleted, with intake, and a custom sct x4 tune. My main question is there any way a new tune could have better shift points?
View 14 RepliesSo I took the wife to the pumpkin farm today, and was we were pulling into the grass/mud parking lot, my tires just started spinning. I stopped because I wasn't going anywhere and I turned my truck to go into 4x4(SOTF) and it made this LOUD clunk and then went into 4x4. Everything is ok and I tried it 4-5 after that to see if it would keep making that noise and it did not.
View 14 Repliesi bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
I was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
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