I've got a 2012 F250 SD and when i go over some bumps in the road or even down a gravel road, the door panel on the driver side vibrates and it's noisy. Is there any way to pull the panel and add some foam padding or something to stop this? I can see the panel vibrate or heck, maybe it the whole door.
View 10 RepliesI've mentioned in the recent passed a vibration I have and thinking it may be one of my hub bearings. Now I really can't tell if it's that or something else as it feels like powertrain when accelerating but at speed feels like I'm driving on gravel?? The vibration is a tight one if that makes sense..it's bugging me to death.
View 14 RepliesA little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
If my ficm is going bad will it cause it to jerk going down the road and spit and spudder going down the road..sounds like injector but it aint smoking at all.. I think there;s a recall for the ficm for my truck too.. f250 2004 6.0....
View 3 RepliesGoing down road truck just died replaced fuel filters still wouldn't start no codes check all fuses and made sure the FICM was plugged in....
View 5 RepliesHad my TPMS warning go off yesterday on the road 400 miles from home. Checked all the tires, all within spec and continued on. But started to wonder if the spare tire also has a TPMS unit and it could be the spare fell below the threshold. I have not checked it yet, but figured I would ask if the spare also has TPMS.
View 14 RepliesMy truck wanders all over the road especially on the highway. The stealership said everything on the front end looked good and tight. I just recently had the front end aligned by an alignment shop, but the wandering still occurs. Is my last resort to try and tighten/adjust the steering box? I have owned and driven bigger lifted trucks before and they were no where near as bad. I realize this truck isn't meant to drive like a sports car, but it should at least drive in a straight line. I am at a loss and it is becoming very frustrating to drive most times.
View 14 RepliesNew to me 05 6L. I bought it out of town and they delivered it today, I picked it up and noticed the fuel gauge was way past empty, no fuel warning light or anything on.
So I mistakenly decided the fuel gauge wasn't working right (they just drove it 200 miles) as theres no way the seller would cut it that close on fuel.
I drove it to insurance place did another errand before I got fuel. Shut it off and it wouldn't start again. Tried it a couple times before it clicked it was out of fuel.
Borrowed a truck and went for fuel. Still no start , took the top off fuel filter , nothing in it. Recycled key 10 times still no fuel?
My 4x4 was broken which of course made it harder driving in the snow but here are a few things I had issues with,
1. When I went to turn, the truck hard trouble turning and wanted to slide straight.
2. When I was sitting in traffic... the truck kept "sliding" off the road. I would be still and then the truck would start sliding....yet the cars/trucks infront/behind me didn't slide. What could be the causes of this ? Some of the front end work I did was,
> Ball joints
> New drag link
> New steering rods
I'm pretty sure my alignment is "decent".
My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
I have a 06 f350 with 140,000mile and today I was driving to a buddy's house and the truck died on me as I was doing 45mph so I towed it home and check the codes I have 1 low icp pressure and 1 low icp during starting / cranking and 1 ckp out of range I think that how it's worded so I looked at the icp pressure and it's 0 and the desired is around 1000 and the volt is .56 and as far as the ckp the rpm are reading so I don't know what to do about that ? Could the STC fitting and dummy plug and standpipe o rings really go out on me like this ? Or am I missing something? I am also trying to track down a oil pressure gauge for the Icp fitting to check it
View 9 RepliesOK here's the deal. Cruising down the road at 55 mph, I felt a pop and then the engine just stopped running.
When I tried to start it up, no oil pressure. It appears that the IPR valve may have failed, but I'm curious if the pop was a catastrophic IPR failure or an indication of something else?
i am recently a new owner of a 2006 6.0 F-350. So like any other used rig, it has its quirks. So the one that is bugging me to s the steering. It has been surging hard while driving. It mostly does this when cold. It feels like it's bouncing back and forth then I have to stop and force it from lock to lock. Once I do this it seems to stop it till the next day. I checked the PS reservoir and it's full. The power steering pump looks like it has a slight leak but doesn't seem to be a major issue. The lines going into the steer box are clean and no leaks...
View 8 RepliesI have an xc90 D5 awd. It has about 200 000 km on the clock. It started cutting out a month ago while driving on a gravel road. After cutting out about 10 times I just tried are 2nd key and it hasn't given us the problem ever again. I then went to Volvo who told me to replace the key .. R4200 rand.. Insane I obviously didn't go thru with it been using the other key ever since.
View 2 RepliesWhenever I go over bumps or a rough piece of road there is a faint rattle coming from the drivers door. It just started doing it about a week ago and its driving me crazy . I am thinking door seal? I've called the dealer and they told me to come in to check it out.
View 7 RepliesSo, I went in last Monday to do the first oil change thing, and visited with the service mgr. for a while about a couple of issues with my big blue dually. I reminded him about the shimmy in the front end when I hit a crack/seam in the road pavement. Or a bridge abutment.
While it's not the dreaded "death wobble', it does shimmy pretty bad at times. He said in order to claim a warranty on the alignment or tires, I had to prove I've rotated the tires as described in the "little tire book of life". Also, he says you can only make a claim up to 12K miles on alignment issues.
I have a 03 6.0. I just had all the injectors changed a new fuel pump, spring in the regulator and fuel filters ouch. The truck runs great but I get a puff of black smoke if I get on the throttle going down the road it seem to clear up as soon as the turbo spools up. I that ok or do I need to take it back to the dealer?
View 1 RepliesWhen I go over a rough gravel road, there is a rattle that is definitely in the steering column. How is this fixed? Is it a simple tightening of something? My Prius is a 2006 with 180,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesLS 460 of 2008: I was driving on a gravel road with LS 460 of 2008 and sudden the check engine light came on the dashboard whilst driving and also the check psc light came on and battery light came on signalling battery low. then the car just stopped and could not start.
View 3 RepliesOn way way to Florida and got 5 hours away and after the truck ran flawlessly for 5 hours it all of a sudden started billowing smoke, lots of knocking, and died. Now the engine won't turn over, tries to but acts like it's stuck. No codes...Accidentally crushed the cord on my CTS so no way to read codes. Just did studs and injectors
View 14 RepliesI am the proud owner of a P.O.S it’s a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the trouble is with my ABS braking system. I replaced both hubs a year ago they have the ABS sensor built into them. The light has started coming on so I checked the voltage on both sides of the car the reading are, driver side at 169mv-320mv and the ohm reading is 1.02K, on the passenger side it reads 140mv-240mv the ohm reads 1.01K, one is a bit lower but well above the 50mv minimum. When I restart my car sometimes the light is out until the ABS kicks in on a wet or gravel road. Then the dash light comes on and the ABS system shuts down again, the only thing a code reader states is low voltage in the system but does not call out what side or where the low voltage is coming from…
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