Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: DRW Wheels - Corrosion Under The Clear Coat Around Valve Stems
Jan 8, 2013
A little over a year I had my rear outer wheels replaced due to corrosion under the clear coat around the valve stems, 15K miles
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Service experience with a new to me dealer
Next week another pair are being installed for the same issue, 31K miles.
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I have a ingot silver 2011 F150.....I've seen some posts that say not to use silicone wax on vehicles with clearcoat (I assume this is the candy red and premium white?). Any opinions on what is compatible with my silver?
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Dealer forgot to reset oil life warning oil change. I cleared it in the "settings" but then "oil filter" and "fuel filter" warnings came in and won't clear. How do I get rid of them?
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Bought a 2011 F250 with P1635 code. It has 35x12.50 tires my Sct x4 tuner only goes up to 34 inch tires. Im new to the 6.7 diesel game previously had 6.0 and want to hear from yall what to do.
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On my 2001 Passat the clear coat is peeling in the thin gutter area between the roof and area above the doors. Its only on the passenger side.
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Seems like the clear coat on both of my headlights is starting to get milky. Whatever is going on, it is happening from the outside. I buffed on them with scratch remover and put a coat of wax on them, (looks a little better now) but there is something going on.
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I'm planning on doing a paint correction on my car and was wondering if I need to be concerned on how much clear coat will come off during the process? I'm going to be washing and claying it beforehand and using a dual action polisher for removing the existing swirls and micro scratches. It's a black car if that makes any difference. The reason I ask is that I'm not a detailer but have heard that some of the modern autos don't have that much clear coat on top of the paint or that some areas (like the edges) don't have clear coat compared to other areas. I also bought the car used (its about 3-4 years old) so I don't know its washing history.
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So I washed the car. All four stems had caps on them. I decide to check the pressure, a few hours after the wash. Took the stem caps off, and they all looked dry inside. The inside of the valve stems did not look wet at all. Pressed my tire gauge onto the stem out came water. From all four of them.
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I have an 04 F2 50 with 6.0 with approximately 225,000 miles. I filled up with gas last Wednesday and every so often the truck will start running really rough and then it will clear up. Is it possible to of gotten some bad gas if so what products are out there to clear that up. Could've been injector going bad what are the best products for cleaning injectors. No check engine light on, gauges are good, nothing different on the scan gauge.
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Can I safely assume that the constant drip of non-odorous clear liquid from the engine is from the a/c? It comes down pretty heavy from near the front right tire, about one drop per 2 seconds from what I saw.
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I know it's a typical new car issue but every time I look at my car I see a new chip. None of them are major, usually just some missing clear coat but yesterday I found one that looked like it had been masked with fingernail polish. How do I remove this without damaging the paint underneath? Also, how do I level the repair after the clear coat?
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I got our car back from the dealer for catalytic C. Replacement and the pressure tire light was on. Check tire pressure in the morning and went up to 40psi to see if they reset. No luck.
Lower back to normal after three weeks all tires including spare are at 33psi. Also, the clear coat on my wheels is peeling off.2006 2.0T 85K Miles.
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I Have blisters in the clear coat of the steering wheel. Two have opened and the clear coat has started peeling off.
07 LS460
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The paint is starting to get cracks on the hood and fenders of my 2008 Honda civic its dark blue with 43,700 miles the dealer said the warranty for paint is 36 months or 36,000 miles. They said its the clear coat and the black and dark blue paint has been doing this.He is checking with Honda to see if they will paint the hood and fenders for me.I feel that in time the rest of the car will get these cracks to and they should repaint the entire car, since they admitted that it is a problem with the clear coat.The car is always garaged and waxed often.What do you think
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When I got my 2016 back at the end of last October, the pink coolant in the main degas bottle was just visible in the clear top half of the bottle. By the time 5k miles rolled around, the coolant was no longer visible in the clear section. At oil change time, the dealer "topped" it, resulting in it being visible in the tank again. 3k miles later, the coolant has disappeared below the clear part of the bottle again. What gives? The secondary bottle level has not budged. Its clearly not losing a lot, but it is definitely going down slightly.
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I bought my 2004 toyota tundra limited addition brand new it has 310000 miles. It runs like brand new. The only things to complain about is the paint and piston slap. My paint faded and clear coat started peeling 6 years ago. I notice piston slap 6 to 7 years ago. Runs like brand new. Open the hood no leaks not dirty very clean. I've maintained this vehical from day one it serves me well hoping it will out live me. I don't see to many 04/05 on the streets.
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On the hood, just beyond the 3M plastic covering is a small, silver-dollar sized area where the clear coat on the paint has begun to deteriorate and peel back leaving the paint exposed.
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So I noticed a couple of weird patches on my mothers 2006 Silver Camry. After about a couple of month(s) it looks like clearcoat failure. My mom is the first owner and bought it brand new. The car has 90k miles.
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My MY2012 Passat 2.5 SE currently at 37k miles all of a sudden is showing clear coat peeling near the trunk/rear panel area. Car is a CPO and clean carfax (no accidents) and currently still under warranty. Planning on taking it back to the dealership and hopefully start a case for warranty work under VWoA.
I've never encountered clearcoat failure this early on, case in point my B5 (MY1999) still has excellent clear coat uniformity despite the paint/body being 17+ years old.
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So I've been chasing a problem in my 07 6.0 for about 6 months now I had just changed the oil cooler and a week later was driving home and she quit a mile from my house I have since then changed the cmp sensor the alternator 3 injectors all the o-rings in the nipples of my oil rail both down tubes in the oil rail and the IPR valve most resently and last night I hooked it up to me auto engenuity scanner and the IPR valve is still not closing it stay at 14.84% the whole time I'm cranking. The only code I'm running is cmp sensor low a cuircut or something like that I can't remember the number.
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From what I understand it should be dry where the valve goes. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist. The top groove had the most wetness, the middle groove was dry and the bottom was nearly dry. Where do I go from here - the video I watched said to scrape out and vacuum - not dry enough.
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