Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: DFCM Won't Stop Draining
Mar 15, 2014
I am changing fuel filters for the first time. I started by draining the DFCM into a quart container, but after that filled up 6 times I switched to a bucket. So far I have drained over 2 gallons and it shows no signs of stopping. Initially the truck was on a slight incline. That's the way I have always done fuel filters, with the tank lower than the filter. After the first gallon came out, I rolled the truck down to level ground.
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This is my first personal diesel so first one I've done maintenance on.
Bought the truck with almost 15k miles, it now has just over 16k and I changed the filters when I noticed the underhood filter was the original 3 port style.
There were some very small particles in the DFCM. Maybe dirt from dirty fuel nozzles?
Guessing this is nothing to be worried about?
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I was twisting off the DFCM housing when I heard a pop and alot of fuel leaking. It appears I sheared off the 32mm plastic nut. I know for a fact that I was turning it counter clockwise just like the manual stated. Now what do I do? I cant run my SD can I? The simplest solution is to get another housing and install it but im not sure ill be able to get the remnants of the original housing off with out the nut to twist it. I watched Epics video on changing the filter and his came off with little effort? My same story just different result.
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I changed the fuel filters today and saw a couple of small pieces of what looked like aluminum or aluminum foil in the bottom. Nothing in the filter itself it still looked good. I will try to post pictures later but I'm not sure it will show up. I don't recall seeing anything the first filter change and this is the second. Is this normal?
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What is the typical delay for the base oil pressure "switch" on the dash to register? When I first start up in the morning it takes about 3-4 seconds for the oil pressure to register. Same day, every start after it registers pressure almost instantly. Is this normal?
I'm thinking something is draining down overnight, probably the drain valve in the oil filter housing isn't sealing correctly?
Is this a problem as the motor is running without oil to the main/cam bearings for that short time period?
I went thru not having the correct oil filter cap last year and with a non-stock cap & short Motorcraft that it would take 2-3 seconds every startup as it had to refill the oil filter housing every time.
Now running the stock Motorcraft "short" cap & filter.
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Can I replace my n/g oil filter that is defective w/o draining oil? I did oil change and filter is leaking, bad gasket. If I remove oil filter will it only drain what is in filter or entire engine?
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Anyway, Just bought a used 2015 F350. I want to drain the water separator as the dealer can't tell me when it was done last. Anyway, I read how to do it, but once you drain it, what do you do with the diesel that drains out with?
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2013 f250 6.7 yesterday during drive through heavy rain fall noticed some clean water draining on my bare feet on passenger side of the truck right below glove compartment.
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I have 2006 ford f250 6.0 diesel. I was changing the fuel filter on the frame rail and noticed a lot of dirt in the housing . I tried to remove the plug to drain water to see if i could get out some of the dirt. But the bolt just turned and wouldn't come out. It wouldn't tighten either. I went ahead and cleaned as much dirt as i could and changed the filter. How to get the bolt out....... I just bought the truck so i don't have any prior maintenance history...
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2004 F550 with a 6.0. I had to clean out my fuel tank, replace the HFCM and filter on top of the engine. When I start the truck it will run for 30 seconds or so, start running rough then die. I opened the cap on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine to make sure the fuel was getting there. I turned the key on and the fuel bowl quickly filled up.
After a short time however, the fuel drained out. To where I do not know. I don't think this is normal as every time I've changed the upper filter on a 6.0 it is always full of fuel. Why could this one be draining out and could that be the issue why the truck dies after starting and running for a short period of time. I changed the o-ring on the cap and the new HFCM was purchased from Ford.
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After my recent cooling system upgrade and power steering pump/HP hose replacement I am still hearing and feeling the power steering whine. I flushed the fluid and used Mercon V ATF fluid. I jacked the front end up with tires off the ground and cycled the steering lock to lock 100 times or more now and the whine does not stop. Do I need to put a vacuum on the system and try to purge it that way? There was no whine before but I just replaced the pump while I had room with everything out of the way and replaced the high pressure line because the fitting was leaking at the pump. This is very irritating because I thought replacing the pump would be beneficial.
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So I am not sure exactly what is going on with my truck. It is a 2004 F250 has a 6.0 L. Sometimes when I take off from a stop the truck has no power and blows some black smoke. Then the turbo kicks in and all is fine. It comes and goes when it pleases no matter the temperature. What started happening is when I drive it a steady pace on the highway sometimes the turbo gets quieter and louder and quieter and louder sometimes when it gets quieter I see a little bit of black coming out of the tailpipe. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Also sometimes when I let off the gas the truck sounds like it's trying to laugh at me like a wastegate is fluttering.
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I have rain sensitive wipers completely dry wipers wont stop?
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A couple months back I blew an EGR cooler. My mechanic replaced it and oil cooler, when I got the truck back it was using coolant and on cold days below 35 degrees it wont start without a little shot of ether. I took it back and mechanic found a pinched o ring.T he coolant problem is ok but cold starts not. Now today truck was running fine then as I was pulling out of a stop sign I couldnt get over 40 mph, I pulled over and then tried to go but no throttle response,then died and wouldn't restart .I have no way of scanning, no dash lights came on. I am wondering if this is related another o ring or gasket,hpop ,fuel problem??? just replaced all the injectors and ficm a little over a year ago.where should I start?
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There's a lot to love about the new diesel trucks, but the idiot bells and chimes are driving me nuts! I don't need to be reminded that my key is in the ignition, my brake is engaged, my belt is disconnected or my truck is in reverse. How can I disable all these incredibly irritating chimes and gongs? Man, I sure miss the simple idiot features of the early 80's. They were so easy to eliminate with one wire snip... This bothers us enough to make us regret buying the truck, especially when we're running lots of short errands, because we get to go through all the chime rituals every few minutes. We're not getting used to it.
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My 2012 f250 is been acting weird, usually the truck is boosting while on gear when I'm at a stop (around 0.40) I think that's normal on a 6.7 because it's always done it, but since yesterday I noticed it sounds different and it's not on boost anymore it just vacuums while on gear at a stop (around -0.25) I'm thinking it's the wastegate solenoid but I'm not 100% sure, and the truck doesn't boost as fast as before but it drives fine and I'm actually getting better gas mileage since it doesn't boost as before, what it could be? It's tuned and deleted....
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2005 6.0L... Driving to work today, doing about 70mph looked down at the gauges and the tach was reading just above 1k the whole time. Even when I accelerated hard.
Got off the highway and came to a stop light and the tach went below zero (almost rested on top of the boost gauge) light turns green goes up to about 1k but no higher even though I stepped into it a bit.
Got to work and turned the truck off and then turned it back on and the tack started working again.
No mods to the truck other then a stereo system attached to the factory stereo wiring harness. I called the stealership and of course they want the truck to look at. I am curious if it is going to work or not on the way home.
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I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
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I know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
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Blows cold, so not a freon issue, but it will sometimes just suddenly stop blowing cold as if I punched the "A/C" button disengaging the compressor. Sometimes if I just wait a while it will come back on by itself, sometimes I have to stop and shut the truck clear off and take the key out, then start it back up and all is well again and it blows cold again.
High pressure switch failing???
BCM issue???
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I've got an '04 6.0 that's recently developed an engine performance issue and I was hoping to get some leads on what to chase down this weekend. The truck has 75,000 miles on it and has been trouble-free since new when it comes to the motor. Recently I've noticed that, usually at a stop light, the idle will occasionally get very rough and the normal diesel "clatter" noise becomes rather rough sounding- almost like every other "clatter" disappears if that makes any sense. Up until last night this was happening very infrequently and usually only for a couple of seconds. I wasn't really sure what the issue was then and would rev the truck in neutral and the issue would go away. This has happened a handful of times in the last month or so.
I drive a company car all week and the truck only gets used in the evenings and on the weekends, and last night my wife and I drove it to dinner. The truck cranked and started normally and was operating smoothly until we got out of our neighborhood (about a mile of driving), then the rough running condition described above surfaced and continued throughout the 7 or 8 mile drive. This was the first time that it ran like this for more than a few seconds. The truck was running bad enough that you could feel the misfire or 'chugging' at speed. When the truck would shift into overdrive and the torque converter went into full lock-up, you could really feel this as the engine was lugging. I tried to keep the truck out of overdrive because it was shaking the truck pretty badly. When we came out of the restaurant I thought maybe the issue would be gone but it did it all the way home as well. Throughout both drives the Check Engine Light did not come on.
When I got home I got my DiabloSport Predator because I remembered it has a code scanner in it. I have never checked for codes before so I do not know if these are fresh codes, but there is a P0282 Cyl 8 Injector Circuit Low and a P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete in there.
While I was in the driveway with the engine idling badly for a few minutes, the issue completely went away and the truck smoothed out for a few minutes. It was like someone flipped a switch and the truck instantly ran properly. After a couple of minutes however, the issue instantly returned. I tried to clear the codes with the Predator but they will not go away. I am not sure how solid of a scan tool the Predator is????
I did a lot of searching on here last night because this is bugging me, and the symptoms I saw on here about the ICP sensor make total sense based on what I am experiencing. People were describing to a 'T' what I am experiencing. However, I do not have an ICP sensor code and when I searched for the P0282 that I do have I read about FICM issues here.
The rundown on the truck- '04 F-250 CC 4x4, truck was bought 10-03 and I THINK I remember the build date as 9/03 (maybe 8/03). Automatic transmission, DiabloSport Predator with 60hp tune, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, everything else stock. Oil was changed about 4,000 miles ago, both fuel filters done about 2,500 miles ago.
A few questions:
Could the ICP be my issue even though there is no code for it? Could the P0282 be coming from an ICP issue?
I've read about early '04 trucks having '03 motors and something about an updated harness for the ICP- could I get more info?
Is my truck part of the affected group with the wire-chafing I read a little about? If so, could that be causing this and what should I look for?
Does the P0282 immediately point to a FICM issue?
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