Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Coolant Running Down All Over The Bell Housing And Oil Pan
Dec 29, 2014
The same day that I noticed my coolant temp was running high as I was driving around in my 2011, i was driving around in my corn field cutting wood and i noticed i was dragging something under the truck. when i got out and looked under the truck, there was coolant running down all over the bell housing and oil pan. i was a bit worried that it was my head gaskets leaking but once i got it in the shop and looked at the heads, all looked good. i wasnt sure where it was coming from! so i looked up common coolant leaks on the 6.7 on youtube.
First video was one of the coolant line on the turbo leaking. so i crawled up on top and shoved a mirror down by the turbo and sure enough i could see coolant leaking around the connector fitting coming out of the turbo. apparently the gasket goes bad around this fitting allowing it to leak. i was just wondering if this is really that common of an issue? I did the work myself. and its not really that hard to get to the turbo, its just time consuming removing all the crap around it. all i had to do was remove some connectors that were attached to the plastic intake and remove the intake then you can reach into that fitting. total time was around 2.5 hours.
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I have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
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So I have a bit of an oil leak, bell housing drips once or twice while it is parked for a day or so and usually has a drip hanging off of it. Where the starter mounts also has some oil and there is some of the driver side. The valley is totally dry and I have new CAC boots so it isn't coming from up there. When I look through the inspection port it doesn't look like it is from the rear main. I figure this leaves either bedplate or cam/crank sensor. Any thoughts on how to narrow it down further? Maybe put dye in the oil? It looks somewhat oily up by the cam sensor but it is so hard to see that thing I can't tell very well.
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Only when running heat or defrost, coolant leak looks like it's coming out of the bell housing. I have a supercharger so very difficult to see behind motor, but with inspection camera, heater hose lines look dry. firewall looks dry. No coolant in cab. No steam on windows or smell. Pretty sure not casting/ freeze plugs because absolutely no leaking with heat off. Can run for days with no loss, then turn on heat and within minutes/ seconds coolant puddling in driveway. Is the hose that runs through valley pressurized only when heat is on? I saw a few older threads but as far as I could tell none specified heat on/ heat off conditions. Just started problem after doing some other work, hoses were off radiator and intercooler, replaced radiator. None of those connections are the culprit.
98 F150 Lariat 1900 TVS S/C Chiller Killer I/C 19PSI Snow performance WMI
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I am having trouble finding an oil leak on my truck. the oil is coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing where the cover over the torque converter is. There is no oil in the front of the valley under the fuel bowl/hpop. But there is a small puddle in the rear of the valley. I have changed all the turbo pedestal orings. Maybe the ebpv rod? But i cant see it leaking from there so im not sure where its coming from. Also have to do the front main as is leaks a little onto my lower radiator hose. How difficult are those?
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My '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
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I changed the oil on my '98 Ranger 4.0L V6 yesterday and noticed a little bit of coolant on the bottom of the bell housing. It wasn't much (yet), but it was trickling down from above on the driver's side. I couldn't see clearly behind the engine on top without removing some stuff, but I could see where it looked like it was dripping onto the bell housing, ca.3/4 of the way up on the driver's side. Where the leak may be and how to fix it? As I said, it's only a couple drops now, but I'd like to nip it in the bud.
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So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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My 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?
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'06 powerstroke, 215k stock
Doing a coolant flush, took the thermostat out but cannot figure out how to get it out of the housing.
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]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
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I was twisting off the DFCM housing when I heard a pop and alot of fuel leaking. It appears I sheared off the 32mm plastic nut. I know for a fact that I was turning it counter clockwise just like the manual stated. Now what do I do? I cant run my SD can I? The simplest solution is to get another housing and install it but im not sure ill be able to get the remnants of the original housing off with out the nut to twist it. I watched Epics video on changing the filter and his came off with little effort? My same story just different result.
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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I have a small oil leak that is showing up under my turbo compressor housing. It's starting to show a little in the valley. Not a big leak, just not sure were the source is and would like you opinions and recommendations. I have been cleaning it up every few days, drive it then use a mirror and rag to try and locate the source.
Here are some pics, I hope I took some that are good enough. Unfortunately I cleaned up the oil before the pics, but I circled and marked the location.
Concerned about the turbo, but I don't understand this leak since it's not coming from the center section. The turbo drain pipe is new and it does not seem to be coming from there. The leak is not enough to show a change on the dipstick the last 3-4,000 miles as far as I can tell.
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Getting a chirping noise coming from (i think) the bell housing. a few small chirps at start up, then constant after about 1300rpm, eventually gets high enough and drowns out behind the exhaust that i cant hear it.
Possible flywheel issue? I've uploaded a video to try and illustrate the issue. 1996 ford explorer XLT 4.0.
Just replaced starter a few weeks ago, but this problem was happening before. I dont know if it was as prominent and got worse, or if im just now noticing it and focusing on it.
1996 Ford Explorer bell housing chirp. Flywheel? - YouTube
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This past week my wife and I took a short trip and returned on a gravel road. I went to start my truck the next morning and there was a puddle of diesel fuel on the driveway. When I looked under it, I noticed that the tip of the fuel filter housing is gone and is leaking slowly from there. I called the dealer and they would not fix it on warranty, the truck has 20k on it. The service man said he would not turn this into ford. I've had the similar problems with this particular dealer. It's obvious that a protective cover is needed for this. I kept the part and am thinking of sending it to ford.
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I bought a 2003 F350 with the 6.0L. It had injection, EGR, and oil cooler issues. I tore into it, did the injectors, EGR delete, new oil cooler, turbo seal kit, and several other non related things. Put everything back together and when I started it, it was leaking oil at the paste of 1/2 qt and minute. I did all sorts of searching on this site and went back to work on it.
I re-installed all new gaskets and O-rings, replaced the ICP and IPR sensors. Started it back up, exact same thing. From what I can see, oil is accumulating on top of the oil cooler housing around the area the turbo oil supply connects. But, its not leaking from turbo supply, or from where the filter housing attaches. Im at a loss. Its definitely somewhere on top of the engine and running down the back, only when the engine runs.
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Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
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Removing 4.6 triton from 1998 F-150. Is there a way to remove the top 2 screws connecting the engine to the bell housing without removing the intake manifold? Although I don't mind removing the intake, I am doing a 4.6 to 5.4 swap and would rather attach the intake prior to putting the 5.4L back in. Figuring if I cant get it out that way though, I wont be able to put it back that way.
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I have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
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