Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Coolant Flush - Additives Required After Filling?
Nov 10, 2016
I'm planning on doing the regular scheduled coolant flush but not sure if it can be done without any special equipment.
One dealer said they don't do many diesels but have a machine to do the refill and quoted ~200$. The other does more diesels but hasn't done a flush in a while and quoted ~500$ and said he does it old school by draining everything out and then water flush followed by refilling the systems.
Which one is right? Can it be done in the driveway? Which is the correct coolant for the refill and are any additives required after filling?
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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I just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
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So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
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10,178 miles and no oil change message yet.
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Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
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After filling up today at the pump, the low fuel message is still coming on. My gauge is correct though. How to clear the message. I keep on trying to reset it with the reset button but it doesn't go away.
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Today the truck struggled to start after filling up, even harder the next time, and now it's in my driveway dead and I have a job at work that requires me to go to Michigan next week that I can't afford to lose. On to the issue...
When cranking, my icp won't go above 400psi now, and I understand I need Atleast 500 to fire off. I'm mechanically inclined but new to diesels, so don't be afraid to dumb it down...can't be cocky when your learning. Where should I start my troubleshooting?
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OK, I've had this truck one month now, and I like it. I think a full-blown analog DEF gauge (a la Dodge) is silly - it doesn't change that much. But I would like to go into a menu somewhere and simply be able to get a reading (90% remaining, 77% remaining, 15% remaining, etc., etc.) From what I understand the 'system check' function will tell you if the level is below half, or just about empty, and nothing else.
Finally, the DPF. Why can't we see EGT on the "gauge" screen which shows tranny and oil temps? Why can't it tell us what % the DPF is filled? When a passive regen is happening? And at the very least, when an active regen is finished?
As a side question, can the high idle control (SEIC) be actuated in any way other than the upfitter switches, which my truck does not have? I understand RAM trucks can press and hold the cruise control or something to activate it.
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I have an 04 F2 50 with 6.0 with approximately 225,000 miles. I filled up with gas last Wednesday and every so often the truck will start running really rough and then it will clear up. Is it possible to of gotten some bad gas if so what products are out there to clear that up. Could've been injector going bad what are the best products for cleaning injectors. No check engine light on, gauges are good, nothing different on the scan gauge.
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Fuel gauge goes back to empty when I fill the truck all the way up. It goes back to full once I have used up 2 gallons ( from 36 gal to 34 ) on my 2012 F350. I also had a similar issues years ago with my 2003 6.0L .....
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I have been noticing my brake pedal is very firm on and off also my power steering seems to get harder to turn than other times. But today i was sitting at a few lights and could hear my power steering pump growling at me intermittently if you want to call it that.
Also sometimes my truck will pull to the left or right then it goes away if i hit the brakes again. I don't see how the hydra-boost system would do something like that. But its not the slide pins because i just greased those along with new brakes and rotors all around at the beginning of winter.
I noticed when I grabbed my fluid lines going to the hydra boost from the power steering pump they seemed to rattle very rough so that makes me wonder if the pump isn't going out. How are the brakes supposed to be on these trucks? nice and soft? rock hard?
By the way truck is an 02 with 144k on it
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I am having a heck of a time finding this coolant leak. It drips off the power steering pump. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the heater "y" hose that goes to the bottom of the Degas bottle. I recently replaced the lower radiator hose as well. So the truck runs normal. When the system is under pressure I do not see any leaks. But after the engine is completely cold it starts leaking a small puddle of coolant. Its appears to be coming from the power steering pump. But I am sure its something above or near it. This is on my 2005 Excursion with a 6.0. Can the water pump be going bad and leaking this direction. I would expect a water pump to leak straight down the middle of the engine. What to look for? The thermostat seal stays dry. but it has to be in that area. What is really messing with me is. When it is hot and pressured up It does not seem to leak. Only after it has been sitting for hours and cools off..........What the heck!
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I have a new(and flushed) oil cooler and new thermostat and my coolant and oil temps never go above 190. They are always within 3 degrees at most but is this actually losing fuel mileage? I thought these were good numbers, could be wrong though.
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1st f250. The coolant is a little low and wanted to add some to it but I can not get the cap off. It will spin and spin either way I turn it. I've tried pulling up and pushing down on it and no results.
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My coolant cap is stuck and won't come off? How can I get it off?
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I am looking for some insight on an issue before I lose sleep over head gaskets. Headed out today in the truck, and no heat whatsoever. Im thinking maybe a vacuum issue, but 4wd (esof) and all vents move just fine. About 10 miles in I over heated at 236 ect. After cracking the coolant cap there was no coolant. I havent actively monitored it but last i checked was fine.
The exhaust does not smell sweet and I see no puddles or any evidence of coolant splatter before today when i refilled it today. There was some tonight but im thinking that's from me spilling some today. Egr is also blocked off. I need the truck soon for plowing so need this resolved asap.
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