Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Constant Ticking After Regular Oil Change And Tire Rotation
May 25, 2017
I've got an 2016 F250 Diesel 6.7 PowerStroke, which I bought fresh off the lot, and just got my regular oil change and tire rotation today, thru a local Ford Dealership. I'm working out of town, so I didn't take it to my home dealership as I have been every 5,000 miles since I drive a lot for work. As of today, I'm currently at 47,000 miles. Just to stay on top of things, any time I'm asked to get any type of extra additives, or filters needing to be changed, I do so. I don't like bad surprises when it comes to vehicles. So after getting my truck serviced today, and back to work, I notice a constant "Ticking" but do not know why. Thought maybe after running it all day at work, not literally all day, that it would go away. I took it in at 7:00am, and here I am at 9:30pm, and it still ticking. What it could be?
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What to do 2011 F550 RampTruck 11,850 miles on it the vehicle has been back to the dealer 5 times for the same trouble code P0299. After the last time it was in they had it for 2 weeks seemed to be fixed. Last week one of my drivers was towing a Chevy S10 50 or so miles and heard a very faint ticking like a stone in the tire that got instantly worse and before he could pull over started rapping and stalled out. We towed it back to the dealer they removed the Cab disassembled the engine and found a "blown piston" is there quote. What should we do about this problem the dealer is supposedly fighting with Ford and Ford doesn't want to put in a new engine.They want to fix it instead....
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So I have a Toyota Corolla 2004, and 117000 miles. Just this Saturday (2 days past) I got an oil change and a tire rotation (at a Valvoline drive through service station). This morning, once I was going 50-60 miles an hour on the highway, the steering wheel began to shake (left and right, fast). The vibrations come in waves, where maintaining a constant speed, it will shake, then the shaking will smooth out, and then it will start to shake again, in ~30 second cycles.
I'm assuming that this problem has something to do with my tire rotation, since it's the first one I did in recent memory, (Thought they do this as part of where I got my care inspected?) .. What should I do?
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
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i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
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Can I safely assume that the constant drip of non-odorous clear liquid from the engine is from the a/c? It comes down pretty heavy from near the front right tire, about one drop per 2 seconds from what I saw.
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The code was P040 which said is for the EGR system so I removed the EGR valve. It was completely plugged in the top section. I cleaned it out and cleaned out the ends of the EGR coolers then vacuumed the port out and reinstalled the valve and removed battery cables for 2 minutes to remove old check engine light codes . I drove it for 50 miles and it runs fine now and the check engine light did not come on. It still has a loud ticking noise behind the glove box which I read can be the blend door relay so I will try to pinpoint exactly what is making the noise as soon as I figure out how to get the glove box door off.
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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I just had the Local Ford dealer perform an oil change. I noticed the motor running a tad different almost right away but put it off thinking it was something else going on. well i get several miles down the road and anytime i accelerate there is a noticeable vibration and little power. I also noticed that both my water temp and EOT were above 200*. I called the dealer and of course the service department had gone home for the day. I will be calling first thing tomorrow morning.
My drive from work to the dealer is well over 20 miles and at 60-65 my water never got above 189 and the EOT never got above 195. so after oil change water temp got to 205 and EOT was at 215 at the max. This is with no load going 55 mph on the hwy. I have a Ford Premium warranty on the truck as well and this is why I decided to have them do the oil change. they have done the previous oil change as well with no issues.
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Ok so the speakership wants 200 bucks to replace and the filter alone is 100 bucks. Found some at auto zone for 65 and 85 or so. How often do you change your filter and where do you buy them?
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I'm assuming an annual oil change would be wise.
Its been about 2 weeks short of a year since I bought the truck, used. Dealer changed oil before I bought it. I've put about 5k miles on it.
The computer still says oil life ok but I'm guessing it has no way to keep track of time.
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Well so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
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hello, so yesterday at the local gas station I was talking to a guy who has a new, nice looking GMC 1 ton 4x4 nondually truck. we started talking about milage and he told me that going up 2 sizes and adjusting it in the onboard computer he was now getting 22mpg.
so I know this isnt an apples to apples kind of thing, and I do know that for example on my F250 it is geared to haul... but has anyone got real data on getting back down to a 3.55 gear adjusting tire size? has it made a difference ? especially if it is just a DD and not a work hauler. yes we all know if you go too far milage gets worse, but I always found for a non-work truck that the 3.2-3.5 rear gear ratio or equivalant eith by changing gears or tire size was a sweet spot for MPG.
right now at 13K I get about 17-17.5 mpg unless I am driving on the interstate and then I get a tad more.
thanks Fert
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13 qts Rotella 15-40 & ford filter. I filled the filter with 1 qt before installation.
Now I have a lower motor tap, taptap or chick, chickchick. Is the oil too thick on a new motor, 5,000 miles.
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10,178 miles and no oil change message yet.
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How many miles typically getting out of air filters? I kept watching the air filter gauge and never saw it changing as the miles added up. I'm at 22k miles now and finally opened it up and looked at it and decided it was time for the first change even though the gauge was not indicating it needed to be.
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How do you access the tire air valves on the DRW, the inside tire valve? I can't get my air guage or my compressor air filling connection on the inside tire.
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Truck started riding weird, checked and my right rear tire is cupped. So now I get to buy new tires! I guess 60K and change on the original Michelin's is pretty good - whatdy'all think?
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Why are my tire pressure sensors going off, I have 70#'s in the front and 62#s in the rear, which is more than enough air.
None of the tires have a leak in them, yet I keep getting the sensors to trigger, and why would it be so hard for the system to point out which tire is low??
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Got home from work this morning and noticed when I pulled in the drive and opened the door a ticking noise coming from under truck. Finally had time this evening to crawl under truck and investigate noise. It's coming from the front of the transmission where it bolts up to engine. It's a pretty much steady tick and goes away for a few seconds here and there. when you increase RPM's it's still there and I think goes away at higher RPM's, it doesn't get louder as you increase RPM's just stays the same level. Will get it to shop Monday hopefully and get this checked out and NoX sensor changed out too.
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