Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Code P1635 - Tire / Axle Out Of Acceptable Range
Feb 28, 2013
I was updating the firmware on my mini max tuner today and decided to calibrate for the 37" tires. After calibration was done I got the code P1635, which is "Tire/Axle Out of Acceptable Range". Should I bring it back down to 34" where the FORD ECU stops calibrating? I mite have lost traction control with this calibration as well. Mite find out tomorrow if I get an itchy foot. Truck seemed to drive better and pull harder off the line....low rpm's.
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My CEL is on and I pulled this code...I made the mistake of using a Hypertech programmer and the code came on soon after. I do have a stock code I saved from my SCT, would it fix it if I put it back in?
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Bought a 2011 F250 with P1635 code. It has 35x12.50 tires my Sct x4 tuner only goes up to 34 inch tires. Im new to the 6.7 diesel game previously had 6.0 and want to hear from yall what to do.
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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I have a po6a7 code boost gauge pegged at 40 code says vref circuit b out of range. What sensors run on circuit b and what could possibly be the problem my camshaft sensor is reading fault on scanner don't know if that has anything to do with it taking the truck to the dealer is not and option it's a 2011 6.7 with 75,000 miles....
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I keep getting a problem code of P0404 - EGR Circuit Range/Performance. What it is and if its a serious issue?
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I had CEL the other week scanned and found P2043 Reductant Temp/Sensor range. Light came on first thing after a cold start.
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My check engine light popped on for me a couple days ago. P2043-reductant temperature sensor range/performance. Truck still runs like a raped ape, no change in driveability. Just over 21k miles. No "speed limited to 55" messages or anything else. Basically no change in the truck other than the light.
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What to do 2011 F550 RampTruck 11,850 miles on it the vehicle has been back to the dealer 5 times for the same trouble code P0299. After the last time it was in they had it for 2 weeks seemed to be fixed. Last week one of my drivers was towing a Chevy S10 50 or so miles and heard a very faint ticking like a stone in the tire that got instantly worse and before he could pull over started rapping and stalled out. We towed it back to the dealer they removed the Cab disassembled the engine and found a "blown piston" is there quote. What should we do about this problem the dealer is supposedly fighting with Ford and Ford doesn't want to put in a new engine.They want to fix it instead....
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Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
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I know that's a normal msg, but what has me thinking is the fact I've had my truck just over 2 weeks and it only has 1350 miles on it. My understanding is that a tank of DEF should last at least 5000 miles (service interval), which means either my delivery prep guys overlooked filling it or it using way more DEF than it should.
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I just bought a 01 f250 and started to hear/feel thia ticking/rattling noise. I have read a couple forums on the matter but I'm not really sure on what to replace ?
[URL].....
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I know that average normal tranny temps for the new 6.7s are 200 degrees give or take which my truck does as well. but I'm wondering about how long is normal for the tranny temp to get up to that normal range? My truck can take anywhere from 20 minutes to almost an hour depending on if I'm on highway vs lower speed driving and it's been that way since I bought it. Am I worrying over nothing or my worries not just worries?
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My Front axle wont go back in! It kinda was a pain to remove too; but getting it back in is like mission impossible! I've tried turning the driveshaft, the other wheel, all kinds of stuff short if beating it with a hammer.
In an hour or so I am going to take off the diff cover and see if there is anything obvious, Id rather not but... I took it apart due to noises I was hearing up front on that axle / hub. I have all new seals and such just in case anything needed it.
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So I noticed the other day that my front axle is tilted forward a little bit. Would this cause any problems or will it be alright.? If it's going to cause problems, how can I fix it.?
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I have a 2007 f-250 6.0 liter turbo diesel. I was pulling a trailer with a golf kart on it and was not in tow haul. I was going up a hill and it shot up into 5th gear. I pulled into my house and shut it off and refired it and it acted fine. I went on a little test drive to see if it was going to do it again before I went on my trip. As soon as it shifted into third gear the tow haul light started to flash on my dash and went to 5th gear and would not down shift even if I did it on the column.
I scanned the truck with my snap on modus and it gave me these codes. P0706-transmission range sensor A circuit range/performance, P0707-transmission range sensor A circuit low input, and P1702-transmission range sensor circuit intermittent. I put a transmission harness in it and started it up and it ran fine and the codes were gone. I went for a test drive around the neighborhood and as soon as it hit 3rd gear it did the same thing as before. Today I put the old one back in and checked the codes so I could write them down and there weren't any so I went for a drive and it shifted through all the gears great and downshifted fine as well.
I pulled into my drive way to check for codes once again and there weren't any. I was gonna go for a ride in tow haul to see if it would do it and as soon I put the truck in reverse it started to idle high and the tow haul light started to flash again. I put it in drive to pull back into my drive way and it immediately shifted into 5th gear and threw the same codes...
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So I replaced ball joints and hub bearings on driver side of the truck today ( passenger side tomorrow). Problem is when I pulled the axle out gear oil started to leak from axle housing not a lot but a leak nonetheless. Is this normal or did I break something.
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I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
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Last night we had some serious rain and I went through a pretty deep water puddle at speed. I didn't see it until I was right on top of it. This morning I see a vent line of some sort hanging under the truck. The end is attached to the real axle on the left side and on the other end is a plastic connector. I have searched high and low and can not see where this connects to.
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I have to change out the inner seals on my front axle on my 04 f250 6.0 4x4. was wondering what the torch spects are for the bolts on the end caps and the torch spects on the differential cover? I already have the passenger side axle out. was changing my ball joints on that side when I noticed a bunch of oil in the axle case and on the hub knuckle. Also, this might be a long shot but is there any way to change the inner seal on the drivers side without taking out the axle on that side? I have the passenger out and if I could get away without pulling the driver side that would be awesome.
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I took the front axle shafts out a couple months back and remember NOT seeing any differential fluid in the axle shaft housing. But then when I took the tire off tonight.. I noticed diff fluid leaking from from the axle shaft dust seal ?
1. I didn't think diff fluid flowed up near those front dust seals ?
2. That's a brand new dust seal so I'm guessing some debri must be in the connection causing the leak ?
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