Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Clearing Codes After Installation Of Fresh Sensor?
Sep 15, 2016
Anyways, so if replace an egt sensor how soon do I have to clear the code after install of a fresh sensor? Could I replace it in my garage and then head to autozone and borrow their scanner or do I need to do the replacement in their parking lot and do it right after the installation? It's my old mans truck and he doesn't have a scanner for his rig.
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Was trying to give back to FTE, all have been useful. So I figure I would post a problem solver. Had a nice oil leak traced to cam sensor o ring. All back together now crank no start.
Truck is half in and out of the garage, torque pro isn't pulling any codes. I did accidentally pull my alternator cable out of the connector, luckily had one to replace.
Did I wreck the sensor taking it out? Will have to try and pull the beast out tonight.
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It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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I have a 2007 f-250 6.0 liter turbo diesel. I was pulling a trailer with a golf kart on it and was not in tow haul. I was going up a hill and it shot up into 5th gear. I pulled into my house and shut it off and refired it and it acted fine. I went on a little test drive to see if it was going to do it again before I went on my trip. As soon as it shifted into third gear the tow haul light started to flash on my dash and went to 5th gear and would not down shift even if I did it on the column.
I scanned the truck with my snap on modus and it gave me these codes. P0706-transmission range sensor A circuit range/performance, P0707-transmission range sensor A circuit low input, and P1702-transmission range sensor circuit intermittent. I put a transmission harness in it and started it up and it ran fine and the codes were gone. I went for a test drive around the neighborhood and as soon as it hit 3rd gear it did the same thing as before. Today I put the old one back in and checked the codes so I could write them down and there weren't any so I went for a drive and it shifted through all the gears great and downshifted fine as well.
I pulled into my drive way to check for codes once again and there weren't any. I was gonna go for a ride in tow haul to see if it would do it and as soon I put the truck in reverse it started to idle high and the tow haul light started to flash again. I put it in drive to pull back into my drive way and it immediately shifted into 5th gear and threw the same codes...
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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So I installed a new IPR valve. Now it cranks but wont turn over. I read something about how the IPR valve has to be 'clocked" in the same exact position it was in when I took it out? Would this cause my truck not to turn over? Truck has never not started before.
When I tightened it down, it was not in exact position as the old one. If I wanted it in exact position as old one, it would have not been tightened correctly. I couldn't make one more full turn around. what do u think???
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Installing the ford accessory dvd players for trucks? not sure if i want to get them just yet but i am looking into options since i have a sunroof and cannot install an overhead player..or can i? I just want to know what you have to do to install them? do they work good? does the leather match?
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Had a large puddle of coolant under my '05 X this afternoon after work. Seems it's leaking from the Y connection coming off the heater water control valve. See first pic.
I think it's part number 18472 (labeled with the circled 1) on left side in pic #2. Need to confirm this is the right part and the full part number?
Lastly, how the heck do you change this hose? It's tucked up under the cowl and looks like difficult.
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What is the least intrusive way to install an oil pressure gauge in these trucks and still maintain the input to the computer?
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I remember seeing a few people post about having them installed at the dealer for about 125-150 was this at the body shop or in the mechanic shop?
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I Have two questions on installing studs. Does the 6 oclock dowel position really matter? To me it doesnt make much sense because the timing isnt changed with just studs so there should be no issue with valve clearance and such. Unless something isnt installed correctly.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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I have had a check engine light in my truck since I've had the truck. it is for a problem with the glow plugs. I have smogged it 3 times by clearing the codes then getting it smog immediately after and have not had a problem for some reason when I tried it this year efter clearing the codes the sensors havn't reset, why its not working and what can be done to fix it....
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Adding a coolant pressure gauge to truck? There are some expensive kits but considering I already have a gauge that would work, could I just buy a 5v sending unit for fuel pressure or oil pressure and have it work?
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I am sure some of use around the forums have seen some of Diesel Tech Ron's videos, well in this video he is installing one of Bulletproof Diesel's remote Oil Coolers on a 6.0
Bulletproof Diesel's remote mounted oil cooler install on a 6.0 Powerstroke - YouTube
I like the idea of these if you ever have to do any work on the Oil cooler or replace it it would make it pretty quick and you don't have top spend a day tearing the engine apart
I haven't hear of too many people having issues with remote coolers set up's like this. Maybe there are some remote oil coloer owners that have em that can shed some light on how they have worked so far on their 6.0's ...
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I'm getting pretty comfortable with these forums now. Not sure if this is in the right section, but even if it was, I'm not sure how to find the right one. I recently purchased Bullet Proof Diesel's Air-to-Oil oil cooler along with the BPD oil filtration. I've already drained the oil, but do I need to drain the coolant as well? I have read of people doing a complete flush before even installing a new oil cooler (OEM oil cooler). That way once it is installed, it doesn't have all the grit and sand pumping through it right off the bat. But does it matter with BPD's system? Should I go ahead and drain the coolant completely before beginning this job?
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I have a 2012 F350 CCLB with camper package (front coil springs @ 6,000 lbs). I was thinking of installing F550 coils springs, which are rated at 7,000 lbs, to provide greater lift up front.
Before performing this modification, what lift was achieved up front?
My endeavor is not to achieve level, per se, but rather allow for increased tire size, such as 35's and ground clearance.
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I am a new owner of a 2006 F 250 6.0.
I need to install a new washer fluid pump. My question is what is the best way to get the old one off and the new one on? Should I go from under the wheel well? Or is there another easier way to get to it? The truck didn't come with an owners Manuel and I cant find anything about how to do this.
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My buddy install a BPD air/oil oil cooler in his 2003 F250 last week and now there is coolant pouring out the tail pipe. I haven't seen it but he tells me there is quite a bit coming out. It wasn't doing this before we installed the BPD oil cooler. Normally I would say bad EGR cooler but his EGR is deleted. This is the 3rd BPD cooler I've put in and this is the first time I've had any issues after the install. The install went smooth other than we broke the radiator and had to install a new one. I feel bad cause I'm hoping it wasn't something I caused but I just can't think of anything I did during this install that would cause coolant to be getting into the exhaust. He just had it towed to the local Ford dealership.
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So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
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