Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Check Engine Light On - EGR Cooler Had No Flow
Feb 24, 2015
I found out today that the 2012 6.7 that I have purchased used with 30, 500 Miles on it a month ago has been in previously for warranty work. It appears that the previous owner took it in with a check engine light and after diagnostics found that the EGR cooler had "no Flow". Ford replaced the EGR cooler core under warranty before I bought it. (It now has 31, 950 on it). Normally I would think, GREAT, something I don't have to worry about doing. But being new to the diesel world, I was just wondering if this is something I should be concerned with. Anything else I should be keeping an eye on etc.... Also is this abnormal to occur with such low mileage?
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Well another problem with my 11. It was just at the dealer getting the fuel pressure sensor replaced and then it started throwing a different check engine light. Dealer says it needs a new EGR cooler. They said there is a TSB for this. I don't have the exact code it was throwing right now. I haven't heard much about EGR coolers being a problem.
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Is the irp high flow oil cooler any good? Or is it better to stay with the oem
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A couple of weeks ago I got a service engine soon light and it turns out that the egr cooler core was bad. I had it replaced this week under warranty but now this has me thinking that maybe in the long run I would be better off to tune the truck. I had not even considered it until now, but this is a truck that I plan on keeping and I think that all of this emissions crap is shortening the life expectancy of the truck, at least without dumping money into it on a regular basis. Would this have been caused by anything that I have done? Am I not driving the truck hard enough maybe?
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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My low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
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I started my '16 6.7 this am and drove it about a mile.
The check engine light came on and at the same time the display said "Reduced Power". I decide to turn around and try to make it back to my shop but shortly after turning around the display said "Low Fuel Pressure" and within a couple of hundred yards it shut down leaving me stranded by the side of the road.....
I called my local dealer who gave me the Ford Cares 800 number. I got a flat bed in about 1.5 hours which I didn't think was too bad considering I live in the country and they brought it to the dealer. The SA said it might be a couple of days before they could look at it as they were pretty busy... What it could be? The engine is stock with 9100 miles on it...
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So last night my check engine light came on so I checked by by turbo and seen this hose not sure where it goes?
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Check engine light is on...not blinking. All fluid levels are good. Mileage is 10,700. No code displayed in engineering mode. Truck seems to be running fine..
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I just replaced my batteries today on my 2011 F250 because of a no start situation. I guess it was about due since they were original and that gives me 5 + years of service and it happened in my driveway so I definitely am not complaining. However after I replaced them and started the truck the check eng lite came on....
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If doing a EGR delete on a early 2004 6.0 will turn on the check engine light? I was going to leave the valve in place and harness connected, I was just looking to add durability to the truck so don't want to use a tuner but also don't want the engine light on, I seen conflicting reports that it may or may not turn on the light!
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I had a bad Glow Plug on my 2004 F350 6.0L Diesel causing the check engine light to go on. I replaced the Glow Plug and cleared the OBD2 error. The check engine light is off now, but I can't pass the smog check because EGR Monitor "Not Ready"
I put 100+ miles city/freeway miles on the truck, but I still get EGR Monitor "Not Ready" Even tried "Drive Cycle" with no luck...
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My check engine light came on today and the code read P1335. What code is that?
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CEL came on.. hooked up my cheap OBD/CAN scanner.. getting code P21B0..googled it and this is what i find: P21B0 - Reductant Level Sensor C Circuit High. What is this for? I've about had it with this truck..this having to replace a sensor every time I take it on a long trip stuff is getting ridiculous..2 EGT's, air charge cooler sensor, blower motor, and now this...
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Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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Noticed the other day when I went to leave a job site my Check Engine Light came on but the truck started fine and seemed to run normal. while cruising down the highway I noticed that my factory boost gauge was showing 35psi and fluctuating between that and around 10. looking at my H&S it was showing normal boost readings for the current driving condition, when I came to a stop the H&S would show 0psi but the factory one would fluctuate between 0 and 35-40psi..
I can tell the turbo is not spooling at all during this time. if I take off from a stop with the gauge showing 35 the engine sounds louder than normal at first take off compared to when the gauge is reading normal. I haven't gotten a change to get it in my shop yet to look it over but does the dash gauge read from a different sensor that what my H&S is reading? Truck is an '11 F250, deleted both EGR and DPF with H&S tuner. I checked codes and all I have is P06A7. Where to start?
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I am at 34,600 miles and had the oil changed yesterday afternoon. My son picked the truck up for me and on his way home the "drive to clean exhaust message" came on with the "check engine light" at the same time. I get home from work, re-check owners manual and no mention of the check engine light coming on with the drive to clean message.
I called my service rep and he says drive it as per owners manual, so I head out drive about 45 miles, averaging 60 mph nothing changes, both lights/messages are still on. Truck seems to be running fine and the last cleaning exhaust message was Sunday and I believe I was out long enough for it to do its job. It will go into the shop tomorrow, but was looking for thoughts from the the rest of you pros before I go.
I mention the oil change only because after the last oil change at around 30,000 miles I drive to work 2 days after and my water pump starts leaking.. coincidence I know.. but getting freaked out as I approach 36000 miles..Truck is a 2011 and I bought it new in Jan of 11.
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Truck had a check engine light that came on. Plugged in scanner while I was still running it, said egr volts were weak, i just cleaned it yesterday.. and earlier today reset the check engine light once but then drove about 30 miles with no reoccurrence of light. Now i pulled over, shut off truck unplugged egr and reconnected. Went back to start my truck and nothing at all. Its like I am trying to start it in park.....been here for about 3 hrs now I've checked fuses nothing is blown. I am just sitting here freezing trying to fig out anything i can on line....... Its a 2006 f350 6.0 ty
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I just bought a 2016 F250 with the diesel and thought I'd share an early ownership experience. At about the 1300 mile mark the check engine light came on and other than the remote start not working the truck continued to run great. I pulled a P0170 code, Fuel Trim Bank 1. And since the truck was still running fine, I considered clearing the code and see if it would come back. But since it's under warranty I decided to bring it to the dealer. They checked it out and diagnosed a bad Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor. They swapped it out and it seems to be good to go (no more light). While I was in there I asked them to turn on the DPF percentage full screen which they did.
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I have a 2006 f250 with 120k. I am having trouble getting the water in fuel light off. I drainned the water out and replaced both filters and the fuel water sensor. The check engine light is now on and the water in fuel light is as well. I'm stumped and can't figure out what to do next. Will the check engine light come on as well with the water in fuel light or is it two different problems?
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