Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Center Console Door Rattle
Sep 12, 2012
Have a rattle of the latch on their center console door? For the last few weeks I've had the rattle I thought was the cup holders but, today I found the culprit. Its the latch hook, the part that locks into the center console. Its somewhat loose. Every time it rattles and my wife is in the car she gives me that look.
How to open the latch cover? I don't see any screws and I really don't want to experiment on a new truck. I have to take it to the dealer to fix the reverse camera but I haven't had much luck with Ford dealers addressing rattles.
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Convert center console to a refrigerator? Seems like a pretty easy thing to do if you could find a 12v cooling element sold separately outside one of those portable 12v refrigerators. I've seen the OEM Ford kits to turn the console into a cooler by using ice, but I'd like to be able to cool via a 12v cooling element instead.
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It appears the spring that keeps pressure on the handle has broken, now the console lid won't stay latched.
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My superduty had rattles on the doors. It sounded like it was coming from the plastic inside part. I have battled thses for months and have finally found what it was. Come to find out is was the glue adhesive that Ford uses to put the moisture barrier in. The simple way to fix it was to duct tape all of the edges up behind the door skin. Tape up the moisture barrier at the edges and put the skin back on. I added some foam behind mine to firm up the plastic skin as well. It was tough getting the skin back on but sure did work it alot. I did this to both front doors. Was not necessary to the rear ones.
With the wind noise beside the head on the drivers side.......At first I thought it was the window seal but that was not it come to find out. I looked a tthe passenger side and looked at the drivers wondering what it could be. I noticed that the drivers door at the top was not in line and laying flat with the rear door. From the plant......Ford had the door at the latch side too high. It was only off maybe 3 16th's......very small but I lowered the door with the striker. Got the door in line with the back door from top to bottom. I also did Epics door mod with the surgical tubing.
I lined up the door and tested it a few times. Made minor adjustments and Solved. Im pretty sure I got 90% out of it. I can still hear A LITTLE but it may be my imagination. Its probably in my head at this point since I have been ticked at the truck since I bought it. I hope mine stays quiet. That wind noise thing has come and gone before so I will post in a few months on how shes doing. As for now I tightened everything down and am gonna let my 6.7 haul!!!
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Having rattle on the right side of the center console? If so, did the dealership fix it or did you perform a DIY fix? The dealership said they tightened something a few weeks ago, which worked initially, but it is squeaking again. If I press against it with my hand (or have a passenger press their leg against it), the rattle goes away.
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IS350 fsport. I have had the car for two weeks already and these sounds are driving me crazy. Its definitely coming from the center console area, I can even move it a bit and its makes the squeak sound. On bumps something like a little plastic pebble feels like it rattles. I went to lexus and they couldn't really do anything about it. They said its normal when two plastics come together to squeak.
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I have a rattle/ticking noise that happens when the 05 Phaeton experiences road vibration. I'm thinking about taking it apart to see what may be loose. This is the console between the two front seats.
I've narrowed it down by placing my hand on top to silence. It can't be silenced by touching the rear seat vents or power plug cover. So it seems the whole console must vibrate to create the noise.
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I am 3 weeks into my 2014 ES300h, my first Lexus and first hybrid. I am hearing this odd rattling noise from the center console, it's almost like two wires touching. The noise comes mainly at low speeds and mostly what it seems like on the hybrid train.
I took it to the dealer who is saying they hear no noise or normal hybrid noise. Since this car is supposed to have a super quite cabin I am wondering if I am being taken for a ride (figuratively) .
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Theres a loud rattling noise coming from somewhere inside the center console, where the shift lever is, that's annoying as hell! Sounds like a metal ball bearing bouncing around against other metal pieces. I put my fingers down there and touched everything I could to try to stop the rattling but I couldn't. I did not remove the foam insulation.
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I have on '06 V6. This slight rattle/vibration only happens during the first 5 minutes of driving, and only starts AS am driving down a slight hill from our development. It doesn't seem mechanical. It just sounds like an interior piece is loose. It seems to be coming from the center console or passenger seat area. It doesn't happen everyday. Once I am on the highway, flat area or after a few minutes it's gone. I have shuffled everything around in the center storage area, glove compartment, seat belt - nothing.
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Just did an interior conversion to my truck from xlt to lariat. I installed a new headliner with the overhead console, took the kick plate off where if it existed would be. Found the harness to plug into but noticed it only had a thicker black wire coming out of it, the harness for the overhead console had around 12 or 13 wires. I don't have a volt meter to test the wire on the truck side. But beings this is my first time installing an overhead console I'm not sure what hardware I need or what I'm doing wrong. Did research on the Internet and there's not much on installing overhead consoles. All I've seen were repairing the circuit board which visually checked and didn't see any cracked solders.
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2004 6.0 lariat ... The compass on my overhead console has gone dead or at least doesn't show anything other than sometimes calibrating ... All other functions miles to empty etc work fine just the compass feature ...
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Got a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
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Bought a 2004 f350 lariat last fall. Overhead console was missing. Finally got around to replacing the display. Temp, compass works fine, but mileage and distance to empty are way off. Display typically shows 13.5mpg but when manually calculating am usually closer to 17. Distance to empty is way off as well. I did some research but didn't find much on how to recalibrate it. No difference with or without tunes.
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
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I traded from a 2011 F-250 XLT recently with premium package to a 2015 F-350 Lariat, but the truck we found didn't come with a couple of the features that I loved in my last truck. I live in western Nebraska, and travel very regularly to western North Dakota and central Illinois for my business. The truck has 5200 miles (had the truck for 1 month ), but everything is still in great condition and would hope for the same in return.
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Just bought a 03 F-350 dually today. 6L 4x4.
Headlights don't work , everything else does? Dash lights , taillights , cab marker lights all work. Headlights and front park lights don't?
I also see the overhead console is dead and shows nothing? Plus the ignition turns without a key being in it?
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What is the secret to getting the rear center caps off a Dually Without scratching the hell out of them with the tire tool?
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So I just changed the oil on my truck I had a ford motorcraft filter on there and replaced it with a Fram filter ( only because that's what was on the shelf at the big W store ) I drove it to town and back once ( 35 miles round trip ) ...
I was going to add a trickle charger to my truck as It will be sitting for a while and I was laying under the front of the truck trying to fish the power cord down and I looked back and see I had Oil spray going down the center of my truck . So I thought dam my filters not tight as when I looked at it , had oil streaks coming down it. So I checked it was tight , would not move.
So I wiped if off with a rag and it looks to me as if the filter is leaking at the top seam . were the filter is crimped . There's not way I can take it off and take it back to the store. a filter that is oil soaked . I am going to replace it but before I do I am going to see if I can get the leak on video
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A couple of weeks ago, had a weird thing happen. When turning left at slow speed there was a click sound that came from the upper part of the steering column (similar to the sound you got with the indicators on in the old super duties when turning and it would go over the clockspring). It hasn't repeated the noise since.
Anyways, a week or so after this, I happened to try to use the buttons for my message center to reset my odo, which I rarely use. Didn't work. In fact all of the 5 buttons associated with the message center on the left side of my steering wheel are not working, but the cruise control buttons are. The buttons on the right side of the steering wheel are also working fine.
I am not sure if the noise in the steering column is related (but it has me suspicious...), or just coincidental, but wondered on peoples thoughts to diagnose. I pulled off the cover over the steering column, all the wires in and out of the clock spring look fine, I haven't pulled the switch yet (need to look at the service manual to make sure I don't break it as I do it), but wanted to see what was the diagnosis.
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