Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cab Light Wiring?
Dec 23, 2012
Where to connect my new Recon cab lights to? I pulled the side piece off of the dash and looked for an empty plug but didn't see any. Is there one in there somewhere? If so what does it look like and what color wires do I use?
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Need to know the Ford part number for cab light wiring harness? I am wanting to install some LED cab lights but I do not currently have any so I will need the wiring harness.
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Where I can find a wiring diagram of the inside and outside lights on the 6.0s? I'm trying to wire up my running boars lights to my dome lights and tail lights but don't know the colors or locations of the wires. The tail lights wouldn't be as hard to find as the dome lights, what is the location and color of both.
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Just wiring up some light on the front and want to activate the relay off my high beams.. Where the best place to hook into... I'm running it off number 1 upfitter switch. But also want it connected to the high beam switch as well.
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Hooked up the toyhauler Friday and before we were off of our street I got the "Wiring Fault on Trailer", brakes on trailer worked, got out and verified the lights were working so we proceeded on.
When we got to the destination the manual says that if the fault stays on when disconnected it is an issue on the truck side, it is still on when the trailer is disconnected.
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My trailer wiring is not working, at least from what I can tell. Embarrassingly, I know this because the little brake light I have in my trailer hitch no longer lights up. I've tried different bulbs and a different unit, so it's definitely the wiring. I do not have access to a trailer right now, so unfortunately that's all I have to go on. It's plugged into the 4 pin jack. Is this something I should be going to the dealer for, or more like a blown/loose fuse or something?
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I only get the fault when backing up. Driving forward it's never a problem. The truck is a 2015 F250. We are pulling a 33' travel trailer. Both are new. I was not sure if the fault when backing was something that happens or if it might be indicative of a problem. The manual says it's not an indicator of a problem. Rather, there might be an issue. Again, it works fine when traveling in a forward motion.
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My truck didn't come with factory option aux switches. Can it be added, and is wiring present?
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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I'm going to wire up a few sets of LED lights under the side rails in the bed of my F350 and connect them to the Aux 4. 2 Questions:
1. What's the best way to feed the wire from the upfitter switch out of the cab? Is there a way too feed it out the back, behind the rear seats? Or do you think it would be easier to route it under the cab, out through one of the sill plates?
2. Can I ground it to any clean piece of metal on the frame? Will this create possible issues with the stereo and feedback (ground loop).
The LEDs I'm using are a series of 24 LEDs that are bright white. I wired them into my duck boat under the gunnel rails and they're perfect and work great and their just super glued in place and have been through 3 duck seasons and work like new and are still attached like new.
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First I lost the power window functionality in the rear left door... didn't think too much of it, then I lost the power door lock functionality, which was bad because I was assuming my door was getting locked when it wasn't actually. Pulled open my door this evening and found this:
I think my truck overheard me when I was saying "I like a good electrical problem, those are my favorite." I'll solder it up to get it working tonight, and then I'll see what a new harness costs... although really they should have used ultra-fine-strand wire with silicone insulation for an application that sees lots of flexing.
My multimeter's test leads are such an example of wiring that is intended to see lots of flexing.
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I drained my batteries enough that I needed a jump after the last time I was troubleshooting trailer wiring, since I keyed on a bunch of times. What fuse or relay do I need to pull out next time? I'm thinking of pulling fuse 302, HFCM relay (or fuse 7 in the disto box under hood) to disable the fuel pump, but what fuse or relay is for the glow plugs?
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2013 F350 Lariat with the factory OEM rear view camera. I am replacing the tailgate with a 5th wheel tailgate for a few months and would like to still retain the convince of a rear view camera.
I have obtained a Ford camera harness to use as a jumper for a non OEM camera which comes with the standard basic RCA wiring which I plan to mount to the bottom of the 5th wheel tailgate.
My hope is to wire the camera direct to the Ford wire harness which is a 6 wire pigtail. Which wires on the camera mate to which wire on the trucks wire harness.
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2011 f350 CCLB... I want to wire a hitch mounted winch for both front and rear usage.
I see several 2 ga wire kits with quick disconnects, but was wondering which battery to go to, and which frame rail side to use. The exhaust side kinda worries me due to heat. Although the drivers side has the fuel tank, and I have skid plates blocking the inside of frame, so it doesn't sound pleasant either!
Also, best method to connect to the battery terminals. It appears the battery clamp screw is smaller than standard and wont accept a large ring winch terminal. Is there a "post doubler" available, or should I consider removing the factory cable clamp and replace with a set screw block of some sort? Hate to have a warranty issue due to a non oem battery clamp?
For the limited use, I have consider just getting one of the wiring kits, and adding high amperage "jumper clamps" and running the wire only when used?
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Looking for an electrical schematic and or wiring diagram of the windshield wiper circuit for a 06' Super Duty?
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I need to connect a remote start stop for a bucket truck attachment to this new 2016 F550. Found everything except the ignition wiring harness diagram. Need to know what I can tie in to.
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Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
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I connect the batteries and the overhead lights don't out, plus the theft light is blinking. Bad door switch maybe? I don't have the original Ford key
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The thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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So this morning, I stopped for fuel. My low fuel light had come on yesterday, so I planned on filling it up this morning. Swung through the local Safeway (my usual fill-up haunt) and threw 25 gallons of diesel into my Excursion. Truck started up right away, like always, pulled around in the parking lot, pulled into traffic, then got stopped at a red light. I noticed a slight unevenness in the idle for a couple of seconds, then the light turned green. Pulled out, truck accelerated a bit more labored than usual, and in my passenger's mirror, I looked back and saw some light greyish blue smoke.
The smoke progressively got heavier, power diminished, and I was no longer able to maintain speed with traffic. I pulled off onto a side road, shut the truck down, and scanned for pending codes. Nothing. So I hoped that it was just a gremlin, started the truck again, got tons of the same smoke, really rough, super clattery idle, and the engine wouldn't even accelerate in park. No hint of boost, nothing. So I turned the truck off, called a tow truck, and had her flat bed hauled home.
Background on the truck, roughly 150K miles, changed the fuel filters not too long ago (less than 7K on them), recent-ish oil change, but I was planning one for later this month. Truck is all but stock, only an aftermarket cold side intercooler tube. I recently replaced my EGR valve, less than a year ago, because it was stuck partially open, replaced it and the truck ran great after that.
I've been seeing some scary writeups for similar things, stuff involving cracked pistons, bad rings, engine teardowns, new engines required, things like that. For me, it just seems like a ridiculously convenient coincidence that the problem would happen immediately after refueling the truck. At this point, I'm planning on replacing both fuel filters and doing an oil change as preventive maintenance and as the easiest possible fix, but what else should I be looking at? Some posts suggest FICM, some suggest ICP sensor, some are saying my injectors may be shot.
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