Having trouble with this code. Replaced stock air filter with aFe filter 10,000 miles ago. 20,000 on truck. Threw code sunday dealer replaced filter with stock. said code may come back. which it did 5 miles later.
Edge CTS says max boost is at 22 psi. Is this something i will live with or indication of something else?
I was chasing down a P2074 CEL and thought it was a stressed wiring harness connection on the MAF.
Took it to the Ford house and they chased it for 2 days, believing it was the MAF and air filter. They told me that air filter was allowing to much air in. My thoughts was, that is was what MAF is for, to regulate the fuel based on how much air was going in.
I just found out that they are stating that an AFE dry air filter contributed to a cracked intake manifold because the aftermarket air filter made the intake get too hot.
I'm starting to get an intermittent CEL for P2074 ("Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Higher Load"). It first came on Saturday halfway into a 4 hour drive (Not towing, just driving 75mph-80mph on the freeway). I cleared the code and restarted the truck and it immediately came back on. About a half hour later I stopped for fuel, cleared the code, and it stayed off for the rest of the trip.
Got into the truck today and drove it for 10 minutes (driving around town) and it came back on. Cleared the code and restarted the truck, drove it for about a hour and it never came back on. The truck is running and driving just fine.
The truck is a 2011 F-250, all stock (except for a AFE Cold air intake that's been on the truck for a while now). The truck has about 98,000 miles.
From what I've read on other posts, it might just be a mass air flow sensor? Should I just replace that myself, or pay the $100 extended warranty deductible and take it into Ford?
I'm having a little trouble with my 05 Excursion 6.0L .... We took off camping the other day pulling our 30' camper and the engine light came on pretty much as soon as we hit the highways. I checked my Dash boss and it came up as P0299 under boost condition. The truck never skipped a beat. The boost gauge never dropped and it seemed to have lots of power. Actually I've noticed too much boost while pulling. It's climbed up to 36psi before and was still climbing when I backed off the throttle. I'm thinking the turbo is fine but not sure what to check next.
View 7 RepliesP0237 code. The truck is a 2003 f250 with an edge evo . The truck will run great then throws this code and won't build boost of over 11 psi. Now it even drops it right off to 0. I replaced the map sensor a month ago and doesn't seem to have fixed anything.
View 2 RepliesBoost gauge is pegged and have no turbo don't know if the code has anything to do with the problem or not its a po6a7...
View 6 RepliesMy 05 excursion died on me a couple weeks ago. First it threw a p2290 code for low injection control pressure. It did this a few months ago and had no problems. Cleared code and did not come back until now. So I cleared the code. Drove a few more miles and lost all boost pressure. Still fires up and runs. It does run a bit rough but only a little bit.
I replaced the oil cooler, did egr delete, and put an IPR remote oil cooler and full flow coolant filter on it few months ago. Since it died i pulled the ipr valve and it looked good. I put a new screen o-rings, and wiring pigtail on it since it was out. Put back together and still no boost. I really did not figure that would fix the boost issue but i wanted to make sure the screen was not clogged or torn.
Truck will fire up cold and warm with no problem and run. The hose from the map sensor to manifold is good and i put new clamps on it.
2005 6.0 with 95,000 miles.
ICP duty cycle = 0.29
map kpa = 102
Injection control pressure = 5.91 MPA
Last night when I was towing my son's Ranger home - somebody stole all his gas & he thought the fuel pump quit - heard a pop and the truck started running like crap. Thought I had blown the CAC boot loose but that wasn't the case. As it turns out, the tube for the EBP sensor came off from the manifold.
I had taken it loose about a year ago to clean it out. I guess I didn't tighten it well enough. Truck blew black smoke, lost boost, and filled the cab with exhaust fumes. Easy enough fix, kind of hard to diagnose because that's not expected. Just throwing it out the for somebody's future search.
I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
View 2 RepliesRecently I have noticed my psi reading on my tuner hovers around .25 to .35 in the morning right when I start my truck. Normally it reads zero or is in the negatives. After driving around and stopping at red lights it will hover between .80 and 1.25. Now, I know that not a lot but its not what it normally reads.
Last week I went off road and my exhaust took a hit and loosened up and caused a small leak near the rear axle. I unbolted it and for the most part fixed the leak minus some alit air flow coming from the slits in the pipe. I'm not getting any codes and haven't noticed any decrease in performance. It does however seam to slow down quicker when I let off the throttle. I'm running an SCT X4 with dpf and erg delete and have a S&B CAI.
I called a performance exhaust shop and the tech said a small leak shouldn't cause any issue like that especially because its so far back. Another respectable vendor told me it might be that my vein are stick.
after my DPF delete and fl0-pro 5" install, i've noticed a slight decrease in lower rpm boost. with the tune i have i can still get it wound up, but it takes a little "gettin on it" to get there. i miss the little bit of boost i had from stop lights and what not, or even cruising at 50 with a slight increase in fuel. i don't want to have to have it downshift in order to spool the turbo to get me that slight uptick in power.
i've heard differing opinions - "stock turbos need the 4" for more backpressure" ; "5 inches is great, b/c you could always use a couple extra inches" ; "there's no difference between the two, but you don't NEED a 5 inch until you're at 1k bhp".
i've got the 5" setup on there... that's that. how can i increase the reaction of the turbos? i've read about a wastegate adjustment (tightening), but not sure i'm ready to undertake that in the driveway, and i don't have access to a lift. nor am i sure this will correct my "issue." (i quoted it, b/c it's not really an issue, it's just a personal preference that i'm wanting to adjust to make myself a little more happy with the performance of the truck)
Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
View 7 RepliesI have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
View 4 RepliesI was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
I disconnected the red wastegate hose in order to address a low boost high EGT issue. This seemed to fix the boost / EGT issue for the most part, but now I get this P1249 code. The first time I got it I saw boost at about 20 PSI. I figured I would try to keep the boost below 20 in an attempt to prevent the code.
I managed to capture some log info when throwing the code. The highest boost reading I saw was 19.58. Pretty close to twenty but I question if I even should be getting this code at this level of boost?
Here's a chart with the boost info. Yes I still have a very bouncy EBP and hope to track that down at some point as well....
I've got an 05 EX 4x4 150k miles. Stock tune, EGR delete only ....
Driving along and everything was good plenty of boost no power issues. Got off the freeway and truck just stopped making boost. So I messed with it for a couple days. Cousin with a Mac scanner flaked on me so I was stuck using Edge gauge cluster and trying to trouble shoot.
NO CODES, No smoke, EGT's rise and truck seems like it is lean. Boost has fluctuated between 4psi to 11 psi. What should MAF be at idle?
ICP has been consistent with whatever boost levels were being made.
FICM 47.5
New MAP tube/nipple cleaned
New MAF
Clean Air filter
New fuel filters
VGT actuates
Accel ped in spec
Turbo spins free
New hot side CAC boots
Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
View 14 RepliesMy question may be unique -- I cannot find anything about this -- at an idle, what should the boost read? Sunday at WOT I saw 28.76 -- but at idle it generally reads 0.1-0.4 -- bounces around a little -- but is that about right? Also, at WOT and 28+ boost what should the VGT read? I really am trying to sort out what this information is telling me -- not is that normal or average but what is ideal and what represents a red flag -- cut the truck off you have a problem kind of numbers.
View 14 Replies