Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brakes Would Not Depress When Parking The Truck
Oct 23, 2014
I was parking my truck and the brakes wouldn't depress and I almost crashed into another vehicle that was parked.
View 14 RepliesI was parking my truck and the brakes wouldn't depress and I almost crashed into another vehicle that was parked.
View 14 RepliesNot really sure what happened. Drove into town on a nice casual drive after lunch to pick up some stuff at the hardware store we now have (we're big time now). About a 4 mile, uneventful trip. Went in, did my business, came out, turned the key on, bumped the key to the auto start thing, shifted to reverse, began backing out of space and the truck started beeping at me like I've never heard before.
Stop and keep my foot on the brake and the message center is just posting multiple messages and dinging each time a new one comes up. Had to hit the OK button on the steering wheel to clear many of them. Things like, low oil pressure, low coolant, powertrain malfunction, reduced power, shut down engine, the end of the world is near (I made the last one up).
Decided that it was either a catastrophic failure in 2' at 2 mph, or an electrical glitch, neither of which I could do much about. Decided best course of action was to shift to park, idle for a few seconds and turn the truck off.
Counted to 10, went to restart, and nothing. Like both batteries had been removed. No dash lights, nothing from the starter, nada. Turned off, counted off 30 seconds and more of the same. Repeat this time waiting one minute using the watch and again, nothing.
Pulled the key out, tossed it in my lap and waited 5 minutes while dreading having to call my son in law (who now is driving my old truck) to grab a trailer and come rescue me. Either 5 minutes or key out of ignition was the key because truck started up with no more warnings other than the SES light.
Vehicle health report said oil and stuff was good (dipstick said it was good too), but the end of the world was coming and I needed to get to a dealer right away due to the light.
Used forescan to pull the codes and nothing major jumps out at me, but the common theme seems to be the computer lost contact with all the electronic gizmos and it was apparently too much for the system to handle. I did not clear the codes (attached to the bottom of the thread).
Question now is, truck is less than a year old and has a bit over 33k on it. Do I clear the codes and chalk it up to a non-verifiable electrical gremlin, or take it in to a dealer for who knows how long to let them look at it before the 36k warranty goes?
If they reflash the computer, I'd have to add the nav again, but not sure a reflash would fix anything other than just giving them something they said they did.
I'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
View 4 RepliesHave 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
View 14 RepliesLooking for some tried and true fix to make these parking brakes hold just a little? Winter coming and with a six speed would like some resemblence of a brake....short of a brick in the drive. I have adjusted.....no luck. New cables ( thinking maybe stretched)..no luck. Shoes are new. Did notice levers where cable attach look to be worbled out.....gonna try to tighten that are up a little to see if that works but.
View 7 RepliesWtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesEver since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
View 2 Replies but 2nd time 6.0 psd owner. 2 weeks ago we picked up an '03 Excursion and were thrilled because it's been running like a dream and getting great mileage. However, according to my wife just yesterday, and after me driving it today, we have a big problem.
The engine starts, momentarily runs smooth, but then quickly becomes very rough. When trying to drive, it will make decent power, but it has an "off" feel to it, like it doesn't quite make as much power as it did, and it has a slight vibration to it.
Then when you coast to come to a stop, or pull in our driveway, it runs REALLY rough and badly, and usually stalls. I have begun the troubleshooting process. Here's what I know: Ficm tests good - 7 pin w/key on only gives ~46V (only tested w/voltmeter) Had an oil change done today and added a bottle of Hot Shot, will add the fuel treatment when we put more diesel in Believe ICP sensor to be OK. I unplugged it and no change Appears all injectors are firing since it ran down the highway decently, AND you can hear all injectors 'triggering' in a uniform manner with key on Turbo probably isn't sticking because made great power before, and decent power even with the problem NO Check engine lights / codes thrown
Details about the truck:Early '03 w/ 189,000 miles EGR delete done in a previous life w/ IPD kit Turbocharger replaced, in a previous life Headgaskets done, in a previous life (no ARPs though )
Questions & next steps:Even if there was no change w/ ICP unplugged, does that truly rule the ICP out completely? Could the IPR be the culprit?
Others? I have ordered a Scangage 2 and it will be here Tuesday. What's the first thing I should check? To me, this very much seems like an electrical problem; my gut tells me it's some kind of sensor or electrical signal error. What's the best way to investigate this path?
The engine turns over very well, and sounds very uniform so I don't think compression is the issue. Head gaskets have been done, although not with ARP studs. Batteries are very fresh and turn it over very fast. I have already learned a ton reading through these forums and just need some additional direction & brainstorming!
I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
View 14 RepliesMy work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
View 3 RepliesSo I'm coming home from the gym and the truck is running fine all the way until i get to my apartment and I notice its vibrating more than usual and as I am turning into my parking spot the truck starts running really rough, like when idling in drive it doesn't just go forward it lurches forward and then the rpm drops and then lurches forward and then the rpm drops.. Know what I am saying? I was low on fuel (light had just came on) so I was worried maybe i was running out of fuel (kind of seemed like it) and turned the truck off immediately because I didn't want to run it out of fuel.
Went to the gas station got a 5 gallon can and filled it up with diesel turn it on and its still running rough, like when you put your hand over the exhaust its not a constant flow but more like a puff puff puff and you can hear it too, I tried again this morning thinking maybe it would magically go away but nope still the same thing, if i put it in drive and try and let it idle it struggles even more. Should I be worried about letting it run or driving it while its running bad? I was thinking maybe it would go away if i let it idle for a while? but I don't want to ruin anything so i just turned it off.
Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
View 5 RepliesFirst post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
View 3 RepliesI just pulled over when my truck flashed reduced power. Pulled code and it came up poo88. What to expect?
View 3 RepliesOK getting these 2 codes PO113 and PO4DA What now have 17,000 miles and a long weekend. Truck has no power barley moves. Can't get it to a dealer till tuesday.
View 1 Replies2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
View 7 Replies