Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brake Controller - Control 3 Axles?
Jul 27, 2012
Adding a third axle to my dual axle 5th wheel toyhauler... was told I may need a different brake controller by someone on a different forum.
At first I thought they were talking about the one in the truck but I would guess the truck brake controller can handle atleast three axles worth of brakes. Now I am wondering if I have another "control box" on the camper somwhere.
I see many people pulling 3 axle trailers and I would assume you have brakes on all 3 axles. Am I good to assume the stock Ford brake controller can handle 3 axles with brakes on all of them ??
Does a trailer/toyhauler/camper have another "control box" somwhere that regulates the brakes as well ??
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Wrestled with them for a while today to no avail. Can't get the big spring under the lever thingy. I hate drum brakes. I don't have the special tool to pull axles on my sterling.
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I don't seem to be able to get my trailer brakes to activate to we're I feel the working as the brakes are applied. I like the trailer to come on sooner and feel the trailer braking a bit more than the truck. I try the slide control and I have to go just about 3/4 of the way to get any braking on trailer. I had same with the 2011 and now the 2013. This a new trailer as was the previous trailer and the braking was the same. Trailer brakes are adjusted. I have it set on 10 as I did on the other truck. The other truck was 2011 and a trailer was a 2012 both new, now this set up is a 2013 trailer and 2013 truck and no difference in the two braking on the trailers. Are they all like that? I have installed brake controllers in my trucks and never had an issue not having enough adjustment for the trailer.
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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It just came on when I ran up to the gas station followed by the airbag light and the traction control light.. truck ran fine. I've tried looking this up found some people have had this message and there truck won't start.
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My Airlift wireless will not inflate my airbags-compressor does not run. It was working - only used it once since it was installed 2 months ago. Tried it this week- no joy. I get the error BL OC,(bloc) then sometimes FA IL. I called Airlift Friday and the tech said it sound like compressor might be bad so I should get 12 volts to the compressor and see if it runs. I did that and compressor runs fine. I also checked to be sure I have 12 volts going into the wire loom and I do.
When I try to inflate the using wireless controller, the manifold clicks but there is no voltage going to the compressor. Sounds like there is a breakdown within or between the receiver and/or manifold. I do see the wireless controller sending a signal but nothing happens except on click in the manifold. I guess I will have to wait until Monday to call again. It frustrating since it's Saturday when I am able to work on it but can't get tech support.
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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I have a 07 f250 6.0l and it has 112k on it, I've owned it for over 4yrs, since 45k, and no issues, but this morning I went out to start my truck didn't start, tried again and started, but the glow plug controller made a funny buzzing noise, (making that noise for a few weeks), so I went to ford and bought a new controller, so I hope that fixed that, but on my way to work I was at a traffic light and noticed that my ficmv were between 46-48.5, icp 23-24%, vgt around 68%, truck was at temp, should I start to worry about the ficm??, I have to replace my ground on driver side battery, noticed that it is corroding, gonna do that, I have 2 yellow top optima batteries about 3 yrs old....
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I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
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My truck threw a CEL after the first start today. The CTS reports it twice. I noticed it about two minutes after start.
P02E1 - Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Performance
The air box gauge is green and it doesn't reset when I push it so that appears to be fine.
The one thing I can easily notice is the sound of the turbo. Typically when I stop and park, the turbo spools up, then down, then spools again and gives a sigh of relief and it's then silent. It's not doing that currently.
Now, I can hear it constantly when parked and it spools down after I turn off the engine, even two minutes later. That is not normal for my truck when I wait for the above to finish its routine. When I start the truck, the turbo immediately spools to where I can hear it which is also not normal, as if it's building 0.5 psi. I realize that's funny to say on a turbo diesel but I know the sounds of my truck. The EGT's are fine, EOT, ECT, TFT are fine and I can build boost when driving without issue. I took the drive to work easy this morning so the highest I noticed was 10 psi.
I restarted the truck after a 20 minute drive to the office and it didn't clear the CEL. The CTS squawked four times when it woke up the second time but it didn't show me which PID it was upset about.
I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the CAI and this is something downstream of there. EGR related? I haven't opened the air box yet, at work and in dress clothes so that'll need to wait. My past four or five regenerations all started between 1.94 and 1.97 soot gpl. That is also not normal and is something I have been keeping my eyes on. Currently the DPF is at 2.10 so it has made it further. Normal behavior (post emissions flash) is above 2.54 soot gpl for an AR.
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My truck had power to the Brake Controller until a recent road trip and now there is no power to the controller. All fuses are good. Which circuit the power comes from?
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I am having an issue with the under dash plug for the brake controller on my 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty. I plugged in my Curt Brake Controller and figured all was good.
As usual with anything I do it isn't that easy. There is no power to the controller or the plug.
Is there a specific fuse I should check or even look to see if it has been installed because apparently this truck never had one installed even though it has a 7 blade plug installed and is plugged into the wire harness in the rear.
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First off my vents stopped blowing completely. At this time the thermostat was still functioning. Fuse 28 was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again shortly after turning the heater on. I replaced the relay and resistor and still blowing fuses. For some reason I tried a 30A fuse and it didn't blow but a few minutes after turning on the heater there was a burning smell. I immediately turned it off and pulled the fuse back out, which was hot. I then replaced the blower motor and at this point there is no power at all to the control panel. The fuses are all fine as well as the relay and resistor. There's power to the fuses. So it seems like somewhere between the fuse box and the control panel I'm losing power.
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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How to completely turn it off, I got nothing so far. I cant do it with my H&S, I have access to ford IDS which is also unable to turn it off. The only thing I have found to work is unplugging a wheel speed sensor, which sets off dash lights... Im thinking of finding a body control module without advancetrac.
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I had a nice level straight stretch in front of me and engaged the cruise control. No go! I tried a few more times and it still did not engage, even with various button sequences. My thought was that this truck is a computer on wheels. So at the next opportunity I stopped and shutdown the engine, turned the ignition switch OFF and then restarted started the engine (and rebooted the computer). The cruise control works fine!
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I have a 6.7 diesel extcab longbed 4wd with the 3.31 rearend. I have been experiencing a surge primarily told by the boost gauge when using the cruise control unloaded and either or both going up a steady climb in elevation or headwind. It does not surge if I shift down to 5th. Does not occur pulling a load. Still occurs in manual mode and tow-haul mode. Does not occur if your controlling throttle with your foot. I find that it happens at speed of 65-70. It will boost to about 10 pounds then fall to about 3 and will continue this until maybe a hill or change in direction. It does not occur with a tail wind. I took it to the dealer today and ford had a new flash for the pcm and the tcm. Hoping that this would fix it but I don't believe it did.
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Just looking for comments on using the cruise control while towing? and what's the recommended weight for using the tow haul mode. The enclosed trailer I have is about 3300 lbs. taking it across the country empty. 2004 6 liter.
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Is it possible to add the decent control if my truck didn't come with it? Is the harness already wired for it and the computer programmed for it or would I have to get it reprogrammed and get a new harness?
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My cruise control stopped working today on my trip back from Yosemite. Tried looking through the owners manual, but apparently it doesnt have its own fuse. Everything else seems to work just fine, so I am gonna start there.
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I have been trying to figure my cruise control not working. I verified the switch for the brake pedal and the one on the master cylinder are not the problem. I have read about the clock spring but would like to verify signal is passing through/ not before replacing.
2 Questions.
#1 I have is how does the overall system work? Ok not that in depth but, is there some kind of servo that regulates the flow to,the injectors or is it strictly controlled by the PCM? and it tell the injectors to open to allow fuel to pass.
#2 Looking for a wiring diagram for the cruise control control circuit. Namely looking to verify switches are working.
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