Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Boost Gauge Is Pegged - Code PO6a7
Feb 16, 2016
Boost gauge is pegged and have no turbo don't know if the code has anything to do with the problem or not its a po6a7...
View 6 RepliesBoost gauge is pegged and have no turbo don't know if the code has anything to do with the problem or not its a po6a7...
View 6 RepliesI have a po6a7 code boost gauge pegged at 40 code says vref circuit b out of range. What sensors run on circuit b and what could possibly be the problem my camshaft sensor is reading fault on scanner don't know if that has anything to do with it taking the truck to the dealer is not and option it's a 2011 6.7 with 75,000 miles....
View 1 RepliesDriving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
View 2 RepliesI am working on my dads 06 F350. He had four dash lights go out, so we changed out the bulbs and put the dash back together. When we hooked the batteries back up all the gauges reset except the the boost gauge. The needle went way past 0 and bounced for about 2 seconds then it just stayed below 0. We have tried to reset it by unhooking the batteries and turning the ign. switch on and off several times. Always go back past 0 and stays there. It does work it just doesn't read correctly. I am pretty sure that the needle did not get turned on the shaft? Is there a way to reset it?
View 3 RepliesNoticed the other day when I went to leave a job site my Check Engine Light came on but the truck started fine and seemed to run normal. while cruising down the highway I noticed that my factory boost gauge was showing 35psi and fluctuating between that and around 10. looking at my H&S it was showing normal boost readings for the current driving condition, when I came to a stop the H&S would show 0psi but the factory one would fluctuate between 0 and 35-40psi..
I can tell the turbo is not spooling at all during this time. if I take off from a stop with the gauge showing 35 the engine sounds louder than normal at first take off compared to when the gauge is reading normal. I haven't gotten a change to get it in my shop yet to look it over but does the dash gauge read from a different sensor that what my H&S is reading? Truck is an '11 F250, deleted both EGR and DPF with H&S tuner. I checked codes and all I have is P06A7. Where to start?
Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
Having trouble with this code. Replaced stock air filter with aFe filter 10,000 miles ago. 20,000 on truck. Threw code sunday dealer replaced filter with stock. said code may come back. which it did 5 miles later.
Edge CTS says max boost is at 22 psi. Is this something i will live with or indication of something else?
I'm having a little trouble with my 05 Excursion 6.0L .... We took off camping the other day pulling our 30' camper and the engine light came on pretty much as soon as we hit the highways. I checked my Dash boss and it came up as P0299 under boost condition. The truck never skipped a beat. The boost gauge never dropped and it seemed to have lots of power. Actually I've noticed too much boost while pulling. It's climbed up to 36psi before and was still climbing when I backed off the throttle. I'm thinking the turbo is fine but not sure what to check next.
View 7 RepliesP0237 code. The truck is a 2003 f250 with an edge evo . The truck will run great then throws this code and won't build boost of over 11 psi. Now it even drops it right off to 0. I replaced the map sensor a month ago and doesn't seem to have fixed anything.
View 2 RepliesMy 05 excursion died on me a couple weeks ago. First it threw a p2290 code for low injection control pressure. It did this a few months ago and had no problems. Cleared code and did not come back until now. So I cleared the code. Drove a few more miles and lost all boost pressure. Still fires up and runs. It does run a bit rough but only a little bit.
I replaced the oil cooler, did egr delete, and put an IPR remote oil cooler and full flow coolant filter on it few months ago. Since it died i pulled the ipr valve and it looked good. I put a new screen o-rings, and wiring pigtail on it since it was out. Put back together and still no boost. I really did not figure that would fix the boost issue but i wanted to make sure the screen was not clogged or torn.
Truck will fire up cold and warm with no problem and run. The hose from the map sensor to manifold is good and i put new clamps on it.
2005 6.0 with 95,000 miles.
ICP duty cycle = 0.29
map kpa = 102
Injection control pressure = 5.91 MPA
Last night when I was towing my son's Ranger home - somebody stole all his gas & he thought the fuel pump quit - heard a pop and the truck started running like crap. Thought I had blown the CAC boot loose but that wasn't the case. As it turns out, the tube for the EBP sensor came off from the manifold.
I had taken it loose about a year ago to clean it out. I guess I didn't tighten it well enough. Truck blew black smoke, lost boost, and filled the cab with exhaust fumes. Easy enough fix, kind of hard to diagnose because that's not expected. Just throwing it out the for somebody's future search.
My truck threw a code p1299 last night on my way home from the lake. I was towing on a huge grade and all the sudden my engine temp gauge pegged out on me and check engine light came on. I pulled over and noticed a bunch of coolant had overflown the cap but the engine didn't seem to have over heated. When I restarted the truck the engine temp was immediately normal range. I drove for another 30 min or so and the engine temp started to climb and then come back to normal then climb and stay pegged. I pulled over again and noticed the coolant level was low and coolant had overflown the reservoir. I restarted the truck and once again it was normal. I just drove surface streets the rest of the way with no issue. I suspect blown head gasket. This is a 2003 F-250 6.8L with 100000 miles.
View 8 RepliesMy fuel gauge on my Sport Trac is nowhere near accurate. Ran out of gas the other day showing 1/4 tank.
I get a little hesitation as well when accelerating.
I'm showing a PO191 fault code which says Fuel rail sensor.
Would that cause a gauge to malfunction?
Recently I have noticed my psi reading on my tuner hovers around .25 to .35 in the morning right when I start my truck. Normally it reads zero or is in the negatives. After driving around and stopping at red lights it will hover between .80 and 1.25. Now, I know that not a lot but its not what it normally reads.
Last week I went off road and my exhaust took a hit and loosened up and caused a small leak near the rear axle. I unbolted it and for the most part fixed the leak minus some alit air flow coming from the slits in the pipe. I'm not getting any codes and haven't noticed any decrease in performance. It does however seam to slow down quicker when I let off the throttle. I'm running an SCT X4 with dpf and erg delete and have a S&B CAI.
I called a performance exhaust shop and the tech said a small leak shouldn't cause any issue like that especially because its so far back. Another respectable vendor told me it might be that my vein are stick.
after my DPF delete and fl0-pro 5" install, i've noticed a slight decrease in lower rpm boost. with the tune i have i can still get it wound up, but it takes a little "gettin on it" to get there. i miss the little bit of boost i had from stop lights and what not, or even cruising at 50 with a slight increase in fuel. i don't want to have to have it downshift in order to spool the turbo to get me that slight uptick in power.
i've heard differing opinions - "stock turbos need the 4" for more backpressure" ; "5 inches is great, b/c you could always use a couple extra inches" ; "there's no difference between the two, but you don't NEED a 5 inch until you're at 1k bhp".
i've got the 5" setup on there... that's that. how can i increase the reaction of the turbos? i've read about a wastegate adjustment (tightening), but not sure i'm ready to undertake that in the driveway, and i don't have access to a lift. nor am i sure this will correct my "issue." (i quoted it, b/c it's not really an issue, it's just a personal preference that i'm wanting to adjust to make myself a little more happy with the performance of the truck)
Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
View 7 RepliesI have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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