Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Back Radiator Leaking / AC Quit
Jan 29, 2015
Recently turned 100k and since have had my exhaust RTD's go out. While fixing that they found the back radiator leaking. Since then both batteries died which didn't surprise me at 40 months. Then my windshield washer started leaking, then my DEF heater went out and two days ago my AC quit. I was ready to buy a new 2015 but now not sure. I've contacted Ford customer service and they are getting with the dealer to see what they may cover but haven't heard anything back yet.
Mine is a 2011 with 105,000 on it. This is pretty frustrating. I have been very pleased with this truck up until now it has been very dependable. However when that dependability begins to go south at only 100k it brings to question what exactly are we paying for here? A heavy duty truck that costs upward of 60k should be one you can count on for a lot longer than that. How Ford approaches this with me is definitely going to have a direct bearing on which 2015 diesel truck is in my driveway in the next few months. Again let me say that i have been very pleased with this truck and FOMOCO in general.
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, 211,000 miles and the third radiator that was put in this truck is leaking!! Has there been a recall This is not right. I haven't even had the truck five years and this will be over 5 grand in radiators. Is a person suppose to budget an extra grand a year if they want to own a ford diesel?
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Read that this is a common issue, leaking out crimped seam on lower LH (2012 F250 King Ranch). I have called Ford customer service twice, they said "we do not have any recall or programs to cover the out of warranty repair". I keep adding coolant and thinking eventually Ford will address this problem. They did cover my bad EGT sensor....
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Ok I now have the dreaded leaking radiator on my 2011. I am wondering how the aftermarket radiators are holding up? I was talking with my local radiator repair shop and they have been repairing the oe radiator with good results. They also claim that they have repaired some aftermarket radiators. He did not mention any brand names so I can not make any claims against them. I am considering a mishimoto replacement.
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In April I replaced the radiator, hoses, water pump and Tstat. I used Mishimoto for the radiator and hoses (silicon). I am having trouble with the hoses leaking where they clamp to the radiator. I put 2 on the lower hose and that seemed to work. No other signs of leak on than drip from the top hose - factory clamp is on and tight as I can turn it - still lost a gallon in 2-3mo. Should I just get a new clamp? OEM stuff was not this prone to leaking ....
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After chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
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On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
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On our '04 Ex with 195 on the clock I've discovered a pretty good leak dripping. I crawled under it an coolant appears to be dripping off the back of both exhaust manifolds.
Less than 1000 miles ago we had an oil cooler and egr was pulled and freeze plugs installed by an excellent well respected 6.0 diesel shop. I don't think both gaskets could have blown at the same time creating two leaks. It runs fine, degas bottle still has coolant in it.
I've seen other threads that point to the heater core hose and more commonly the "orange" egr hose. It appears that an egr delete removes the hose - I think... but would that Blue / orange hose be there if the cooler was just capped and electrical unplugged?
The shop is going to look at it Monday but I'm trying to understand it better ahead of time.
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I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
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I went on a 4oo mile trip the other day and kiddos were in the back playing games and powered up- Next thing I know the AC seems to not be working. It was pretty cool outside so I tested it a little and I could not feel any cool air in the seats and teh vents were not very cold.
Clutch seems to be engaged and not cycling.
I am taking back to them Wednesday.
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I have an 04 f350 and the other day the windows and radio quit all at once. Lots of people are having intermittent problems but mine went from being fine to nothing all at once. I tried the circuit breaker and the relay but nothing seems to fix it. What this is?
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My truck does mostly pavement duty so no telling how long ago 4WD quit working but I needed it the other day and it's now a no-go. It's the '06 truck in my sig and it has ESOF.
When I flip the switch (4hi or 4low acts the same) my A/C continues to come out of the dash vents, it doesn't change. With KOEO I can hear a whirr-click from under the truck when switching 4wd on and off, I get noise both ways. 4x4 light on the dash seem to work correctly.
Broke out FORScan and got the following info:
===GEM DTC P1832===
Code: P1832 - Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
===END GEM DTC P1832===
[Code] ....
Any tips to quickly nail it down between the switch, GEM, wiring or solenoid? Looks like the whole thing is failing. I've climbed under the truck and all the wiring appears undisturbed. No recent work under there. In FORScan, these DTC's were generated in a user initiated test and I didn't pick up the instruction to re-run the test in 4x2 mode until I posted just now.
Under the hood everything seems to be routed correctly and connected. Vacuum pump runs a short while on start up like always has. I can lock hubs manually and they don't seem to be binding hard but they are a little stiff, haven't done that before so I don't know how hard it should be to turn them. I have a MiteVac but haven't tried using it to try and lock the hubs. Not sure any of that matters (yet) with the DTC's listed above.
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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I was just outside and noticed a little puddle under the front of the truck. I crowled under her to find orange coolant on the seam of the radiater right above the drain. I thought maybe the drain was open a little but no, it was tight. I have 40000 miles on the truck.
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How many of you put a screen in front of all your radiators to keep bugs and stuff from clogging them up? Is there much of an air flow restriction (from the screen)? It is about the first thing I always do when I get a new vehicle.
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The only problem it's had is the heated seats quit working.
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I'm working on a 2005 F350 with a 6.0. The customer was driving the truck when it suddenly quit running and now it won't start. The only code stored in the memory is P2290 - ICP too low. With my scanner connected the IPR is showing 85% duty cycle and the ICP is only showing 5 psi while cranking. I disconnected the ICP sensor while cranking but still no fire, so I removed it and connected a pressure gauge which shows zero psi while cranking. I hooked up a cylinder leakdown gauge to the ICP port and with 100 PSI of air pressure I'm showing less than 2% leakage with the IPR energized at 60% duty. Thinking the hpop was bad I replaced it but still no change. I also tried a new IPR but no luck there either. I removed the oil filter cartridge and verified the low pressure pump is pumping oil while cranking. Could the inlet screen be plugged inside the oil cooler? I'm at a complete loss.
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So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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Removing the radiator on these trucks to repair the leak? It looks pretty straight forward. Remove the fluid, grill, hoses, and the few screws on each side that connect the other cooling coils to the main radiator. then hopefully it should slide straight up and out. A radiator shop said they would replace the gasket between the plastic end caps and the radiator if I take it to them. Which brings me to my next question. Is it the gasket that is causing this notorious leak or is it a crack somewhere or a loose crimp? Mine is leaking from the usual spot. Driver side on the bottom at the seam. Then runs down the frame to the ground.
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So for 4500 miles since new my truck has been displaying, on the right side of the instrument display in the center dash, the actual gear the truck is in. I would shift from park to drive and move out and the truck would display what gear it was in by placing a lighted box around the gear number as it shifted 1-6. Now that display is gone. It's not anywhere. If I go to the manual mode it will display that, but the normal numbers from 1-6 , bottom to top , are gone.
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