Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Auto Unlock Won't Work
Mar 3, 2015
I can't get the damn auto unlock to work. I've enabled it and disabled it and nothing still reset it all and all that just got the truck....
View 7 RepliesI can't get the damn auto unlock to work. I've enabled it and disabled it and nothing still reset it all and all that just got the truck....
View 7 RepliesLive data readings dropping to zero while hooked up with AE. They drop to 0 and come back but it's pretty annoying. Not sure if it's my old laptop or the actual program itself.
View 2 RepliesIs there a way to auto engage the Tow/Haul mode when you plug in a trailer that requires brakes? Be nice since I sometimes forget to push the button after we stopped for lunch...
View 14 RepliesWhen I park over night while in 4x4, the next morning my hubs are disengaged and I have to manually lock them. There is an apparent slow/slight leak in the vacuum system. What would be the usual suspect, so I can start at that point?
View 3 RepliesI got new auto-locking hubs. The updated ones. As I proceeded to replace them, I pulled out old ones and when driver side came out, there was like 1/2 ounce of water that flowed out from where the auto-locking hub would sit. Strange. I had changed out lines, vacuum pump, vacuum solenoid and reservoir. All new and dry. I blasted both sides down with brake cleaner to clean off old grease, let dry and installed new auto hubs. So far so good. Will test the ESOF feature another time. I was wondering where this water would come from? Other side of wheel hubs are dry.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 6.0 used to beep and flash the lights when I lock and unlock with the remote key fob, but has stopped doing it for some reason. Need the sequence required to re-program that feature.
View 1 Replies'03 Excusion 6.0psd....new batteries a year ago, new starter a month ago, head gaskets etc a year ago....
Today I go out and start it up, no problem. Gather up the kids and head out to load up. When I climb in, I hit the unlock button to make sure the kid's doors are open and the engine stumbles.
I thought maybe I was imagining things so I hit it again and the same thing happened but it died but fired right back up. Drove the kids to school and it ran fine, no problems.
I tried the methods that I could find on youtube but with no luck.... I do not have the option to change the settings in the message center either...
View 14 RepliesNew to the 4x4 6.0 just bought an 06' King Ranch 130K miles. My other truck is a 95' 7.3 non 4x4 now for sale. So the new to me 06' will not lock the hubs in Auto mode but will in Manual. I have good vacuum down to each wheel hub which is where my question is.
The vac port at either wheel I get 20-30hg however I believe this is only because something is plugged. If I pump up my vac tester to ~25hg right at the wheel port the needle doesn't move, holds vacuum, but does not Auto lock the hub. So I pulled out the Manual/Auto hub by removing the 3 torque screws thinking my vacuum should then go to 0 but it doesn't it stays right at ~25hg.
Before I bought the truck there was some work done to the front end. New ball-joints, Rt tie-rod and perhaps a few other things I haven't ID yet. Could my problem above be an axle seal or something else perhaps installed incorrectly causing the small vac hole going down inside the hub to be covered up or maybe plugged somehow? I believe to replace the ball joints the axle, hub and other parts have to be removed, correct?
I have a 2012 Lariat fairly well loaded out. However, the so called "auto" window button on the drivers door works auto in down only. Just curious if something is wrong with mine because it is will not do auto for raising the window. One would think that on a truck the auto would work both ways. I know on my Expedition it works both ways. Just wondering if mine was faulty before I go to the dealer.
View 8 RepliesBefore taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
When taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
View 14 RepliesIt's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down...
View 8 Replies2007 F250SD, R/H power mirror with LED lights no work. All other lights and L/H mirror work fine. Checked the fuse in passenger compartment, it's good. Where to start looking?
View 5 RepliesJust notice this in the manual page 302 The vehicle should not be driven in 4x4 high or low with the lock hubs set to auto as this condition may damage driveline system components.
Page 303 It then goes on to say !!
Automatic operation of the hub locks is recommended and will increase fuel economy.
when using 4x4 once in awhile LOCK or AUTO
I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
So I bought my truck about three months ago. The first day I got it I obviously wasn't paying so much attention to the key, that I didn't notice that my keyfob wouldn't work at all or had limited distance. Anyways, I go to the dealership and the keyfob(Normal one, NO Remote Start) works perfect for them every time. I have been so frustrated with this for a couple of weeks now, I decided to take it into my own hands and take it apart and see whats going in there.
On the top right side of the key, there is a gap between the two plastic pieces that you can fit a flathead in and turn to open up the actual key. In between those pieces is a rubber mat type thing, I assume to keep water out. After you take that off, you will see the battery. On BOTH of my keys, there was this clear goo stuff, which again I will assume that it's some sort of contact/battery protector put on by the factory.
Well the text on the inside of the key says not to wipe the battery contacts, but I took a Cu-Tip and got all the clear stuff off the battery and contacts! I now have 100 yard distance with my key. It works EVERYTIME now.
My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
View 14 RepliesI have a 15 F350 DRW 6.7 pulling a 19K fiver with 8K axles and disc brakes, I have to have my brake controller set at 10 to get the brakes to work well. The pads are good, just bled the system using a power bleeder, controller is set to electric over hydraulic with max gain. Why I need to have the controller set to max?
View 14 RepliesI noticed my A/C hasn't been up to par. It's not bad when driving but just ok when idling. So today I changed the orfice tube and the accumulator. Vacuumed the sys. down and charged it up, 2 lbs 10 oz. It is worse! the compressor kicks on and off constantly only cooling to 80 degrees.
I noticed the high goes right up to 350 then the compressor shuts off .... 7 seconds later, back on and up to 350lbs and off again. I think the high-pressure switch is shutting the compressor off before anything goes kaboom but why isn't my fan cooling the condenser down? my FSS shows no increase in fan speed. Sitting at 450.
I think I'm going to cool the condenser down with a hose now to see if that works. If so, That would be telling me the fan isn't doing it's job correct?
I have a 2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel with a 12 foot flatbed on it that I use for my power washing business. The air conditioner sometimes won't work when I first drive it in the morning. After I make a few stops and turn the engine on/off a few times it will all of the sudden start working again.
This happens about 2 or 3 times a month and I don't have time to have it sit at Ford so they can duplicate the problem. It's going in for it's 60,000 mile service in the morning anyways so I'll still have the dealer look at it. What might be causing this?
2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12 Foot Flatbed