Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: At 70 Mph Cruise Dies - P0259 Code Showing - Turbo Overboost?
Aug 7, 2017
Wednesday I was hauling a couple of horses to Idaho. I was climbing up Malad pass on I-15. It's a good climb for the truck but something I've done several times this summer A little warm around mid 90's . Cruise set at 70mph following a friend in his duramax and another friend behind me with an 2002 7.3L Almost the summit, my truck shuts down. dash says I've gone into limp mode, and I coast to the shoulder.
I pull the codes and it's showing P0259 So I call my dealer and the service writter pulls up the code and says it's a Turbo Overboost. So I clear it and restart the truck, runs fine the rest of the week hauling horses around Idaho Wyoming.
Dealer says to bring truck in because there is a flash to fix that problem. Overboost with normal driving ? Pro's and Cons of the flash?
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I haven't been on for a while, but I'm trying to figure out if I have a slight turbo issue.
Turbo pulsing ? I am experiencing this, it just started about 3 months ago. First time it did it, I thought the truck was going into exhaust cleaning mode. Not the case. It doesn't do it with the cruise off, but with the cruise on it's like it can't decide if it needs boost or not.
Boost is pulsing between about 2-3 psi to 10 psi. No check engine light on to speak of. Now that I'm thinking about it. I think the turbo is falling flat with the motor cold too, or maybe it's a cold tranny..... gotta watch that closer.
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I was wondering about same turbo problems that I'm having? When running in cruze only at 55-60mph the turbo will surge from 2-12 psi up and down repeatedly. It sometimes will level out for a couple seconds and then continues to do it. I had it to the dealer and the service manager drove it and said it seems like it's searching for something, but since there was nothing from ford about it he couldn't do anything about it. There was an update for a prior serial number but my truck has the current software. What kind of damage is this going to do. It sucks because alot of my driving is at this speed.
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I noticed I have this code when checking on my edge insight cts, What it means?
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After replacing the HPOP a month or so ago, the bellows decided to let lose on the y-pipe. Which started my Turbo hunting and a P132b code.
This past week my 15 yr old and I replaced the up pipes with a BD Diesel kit. Which after my son redid his part of the job 4 times, we had it licked and running awesome with no codes and zero turbo hunting.
Fast forward to Sunday night coming home from my sisters 30 miles away. I jump on it to pass a slow moving vehicle or 3 and BOOOM! Lots of hissing and no boost on the gauge! Yep we didn't tighten that HAC clamp at the turbo enough.
Get the boot and clamp back on and head to the local parts store slowly to borrow a ratchet and socket. All we could muster from the state trooper was a pair of pliers.
Check the codes after we tighten the clamp and had a P132b. Cleared it and drove it home 25 minutes away and no code but the turbo is hunting. 85% down to 14%. So I reload the stock tune, double check all the clamps on the up pipe kit and pull the battery cables and turn the headlight switch to on. I go inside for an hour or so and go back out and hook up the cables.
I check the codes and the usual P603 is there. I clear it, start the truck let it run 10 mins and then take it for a ride. Pull up to a stop and the turbo goes into hunt mode! Drive it about a half hour and stop. Check codes and find the normal RGR code since I am deleted and the recurring P132b. I clear those and drive back home 35 minutes. I check the codes and nothing not even the P132B but the damn turbo is hunting again!
I check the wiring, and turbo connections and nothing! No leaks, errors or drips. I reload my custom tune and drive it. It hunts less but is still hunting! I am at a lose here! I had it running fine for 2 days. No issues until that clamp let the boot slip!
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The truck in question is a 2004 6.0L Excursion, stock original turbo, no tunes, and EGR cooler delete done 1 year ago. Scanned for codes and none were found except for EGR insufficient flow P0401 code which is due to the EGR cooler delete.
Upon startup (no issues there) the VGT reads 67-70, now once the truck goes to high idle to warm up (1150 or so RPM) the VGT slowing climbs to 85 and stays there. If I blimp the throttle or step on the brake it goes back to 67-70 at normal idle. This has been happening for a few months now on a regular basis. I have checked the MAP, BARO, and EBP readings at KOEO and they are all within 0.6 of each other (14.4-15.0). The EBP tube was checked and cleaned (no buildup present)..
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I am fairly new to working on diesel engines. I was towing a camp trailer and got a P0299, Turbo Charger Underboost engine code. I never gotten any other codes other than this one when towing. I decided to pull the turbo and clean the vanes. Everything seemed to go back together good but now I hear what sounds like an air leak coming from the turbo area. The boots on the intercooler pipe are in good shape, I only loosened the clamps at the intercooler and the turbo. Left the boots on the pipe. I have tightened the clamps around the exhaust pipe connections with no change. I also seem to get a slower response from the turbo and possibly not as much psi as normal (according to dashboard gauge). I have driven the truck five or ten miles trying to work the turbo and have not gotten any engine codes to this point.
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Stuck turbo and high deltas so I replaced the oil cooler, coolant, thermostat, rebuilt turbo. Etc etc. Now I'm getting p2284/p2285 intermittently. Upon inspection ICP looks great at idle and 2500. IPR at hot idle is 20.9 but when you run it up to 2500, it drops to 14.7 and after a few seconds hpop at idle jumps to 875 and I get the p2284/2285. Bad IPR?
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My truck is showing code p1277. The only time I really notice anything is cold mornings like we been this week. Low 50s. When I first start it in the morning the engine light goes on and off until the truck is completely warmed up. Could it be the injector going bad?
2003 f250 7.3 with 415000 miles. Stock injectors
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Powerstroke which i bought in May (My first truck and also my first diesel) that I am trying to diagnose a couple problems before it gets into the colder weather. One problem being that my glow plug/WTS light does not come on. What is the possible cause for this? My glow plugs and GPCM all work fine so if there's a bulb that would be out or where the problem would be? I'd like to have this light working before winter time for obvious reasons... and another light that doesn't work that I'd like to try and figure out is the brake light that should come on when you put on your emergency brake.
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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Weird thing happened today. Was out running errands, and upon pulling out into traffic I felt the truck lag a little. I figured it was the typical trans hiccup we all experience from time to time. As I continue driving, I notice I don't have any turbo boost.
I'm cruising around 55-60 and when I slowly give it gas......No boost. I stomp it and the turbo gauge slowly climbs to about 12 psi. At this point I waiting for the truck to throw a warning message and none came.
As I'm reaching my destination, the speed limit is 30 so I'm just putting along and any acceleration I did, the boost needle wouldn't move. I arrive at the store, and when I got back in 5 minutes later and drove off, My boost was back. Truck operated normal for the 25 minute trip home. I thought a similar thread was started but I couldn't find it.
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My truck is all stock and I am running in performance tune? And my friend the former owner said I need to let her loose about 75 percent of the time I am driving it because it's my DD and I do not tow anything on a regular basis. I do not want to stretch my bolts by unnecessary pushing, I don't know if I'm even pushing it hard but I normally get the turbo up to about 30 psi is that to much?
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Still working on this E450. Now, I'm trying to get the turbo back on and I don't know how the heck to get the oil tube in.
There's so little room that I can't lift the turbo up. Just getting it in and out is a chore. I was able to pull the oil tube out with some difficulty when I was removing the turbo, but if it put it in first, the turbo won't go over it to get back in. If I leave it disconnected to get the turbo in, I have no way to reach under it to get the oil tube back in.
I only messed with it for a little while - it's physically difficult bending over inside the van to wrestle with it - and will go back at it first thing in the morning. I know there's gotta be a way, I've just never done this before.
Do I stick the tube in the turbo first, in the engine, or neither until I got the turbo in place?
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I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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2005 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Diesel 6.0L...
Hauling my jeep (close to 16,000 pounds all in F250+trailer+jeep) on a highway going a little over 70mph up a hill when I seemed to have lost some power and the check engine light came on. The turbo PSI was well over 20PSI (according to the gauge in the dash). I have a Scan Boss but I have not been monitoring turbo boost PSI.
I was only 10 miles from the final destination so I continued without stopping. It seemed that the turbo was limited for the rest of the trip. Later in the evening, no more check engine light but I haven't really driven the truck since then.
What do you think the problem was? What should the course of action be?
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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The installation of the new 50 gal. Titan tank went well overall. Start up was smooth with no leaks but the fuel gauge is showing empty with about 45 gallons in the tank.
The sending unit was properly oriented ("clocked") so I'm guessing the electrical connector is not secure at the top of the sending unit. Not sure I can reach the connector without lowering the tank somewhat.
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For the second time in 6 weeks My 2004 F250 Powerstroke has run out of fuel with the gauge showing a 1/4 tank. First time it was just under a 1/4 showing I had it towed to dealer and they told me it had sucked in the filters requiring replace and flush of system. The told me that this happening very often and I would be replacing all of the injectors at my cost. I told them that I didn't want this to happen again and to check out the fuel gauge and sending unit and replace if in doubt. Well they checked it out and found nothing wrong, told me it was accurate and should not be an issue again. Now 6 weeks later on the Friday night before a holiday, it did it again, this time with over a 1/4 tank showing. I really don't want to spend 6 grand replacing injectors and would really like to trust my truck again, getting to the point that I'm nervous at 1/2 tank.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0. Lately it seems like the motor just doesn't have the boost it should. Funny thing is that the boost reading through the edge cts seems to be right. Under full acceleration it will pull 27 psi boost and 3900+ ICP pressure. No codes are being thrown. It just doesn't "feel" right (seat of the pants) and it also sounds louder but I don't known this for sure.
Where does the CTS get its boost reading from? The truck has new boots on the hot side from riffraff. Anything I can check?
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I have an F450 with a 6.0 turbo diesel with 267000 miles std trans. 4wd and just bought it a few weeks ago. When the engine is cold, the truck runs fine but after driving for 15 minutes, I loose power in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. The gauge for the turbo drops from 20 down to 5 and the truck starts blowing black smoke. This starts at 1500 rpms and stops when I am past 2200 rpms.
Before 1600 rpms and after 2200 rpms, the truck has lots of power but withing those ranges, the truck has almost no power at all. When I first got the truck, the problem didn't start until I was up to 1800 rpms. No codes showing up either. I had the truck serviced by a diesel mechanic and the filters replaced using Ford parts. Problem persists and only exists when the engine is warm.
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