Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: All Gauges Sweep Across And Then Go To Normal Position When Turn The Key
Sep 7, 2014
I had a '11 and when I turned the key on all the gauges would sweep across and then go to normal position. My '14 does not is that normal ?
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My wife's 2011 F-350 on start up, will sweep the gauges from one side to the other. My 2012 doesn't, is that normal?
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle 140,000 miles, that has kind of a hiccup miss also there are times when all of the gauges drop and them come back up. I have had the car at the dealership twice and to another mechanic. When I took it to the dealership the first time they told me that it was the spark plugs and the number 1 coil also had a mouse nest in intake manifold. I have replaced the spark plugs, coil 1, clean intake and replaced gasket, replaced MAF, fuel rail sensor and EGR as the codes have been read.
Last time I picked it up from the mechanic it started missing in less than 10 miles to the dealership. The computer said nothing at first then the mechanic took a drive with it. He did have the gauges drop. The codes said charging system. My other mechanic check the battery said it was charging fine and that the alternator and battery cables are all good. Dealership and mechanic are at a loss for what to do.
Last night I was sitting in the car looking for a button that had lost. The car had not been driven all day, off, no key in the ignition. I heard the static noise that I have become familiar with and looked at the cluster and the gauges were all at the below their normal off position shaking and then stopped and returned to normal position. Should I change cables, battery and alternator even when tested they say that they are OK?
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Have a problem with the gauges and radio shutting down sometimes.. Thought it might be a loose wire or something.. But noticed on the scan gauge that it would happen when the volts went over 16 volts.. Is there an external voltage regulator or is it just time for a new alternator..
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2004 f350. Trucks starts, runs, normal. But just noticed the gauges are not moving. Speedo stuck at 50, tach is at idle. Lights up just fine.
Have a code for the fuel sender, had that issue for awhile now, but also have u1262.
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I have a 2006 Super Duty 6.0L, and I'm what are the two temperature gauges on the right side of the dash are? I'm sure one is engine temp, but what is the other one? Also, which gauge is which (in terms of top/bottom)?
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On my 2011 the gauges would cycle when I turned the key on... My 2014 doesn't... Is there something wrong or has Ford changed the sequence? ...
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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Don't have a clue what's happening here or where to begin looking but about 20 seconds after cranking the truck ALL my instrument panel gauges go dead, radio goes dead (nothing on it's display) and my driver door controls all stop working simultaneously. Funny thing though, I can still see what the computer sees with my edge insight that's plugged into my OBD2 port and all those read as normal. The engine still runs and I can drive with no issues. My headlights still work fine as do all my signals.
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My truck is all stock and I am running in performance tune? And my friend the former owner said I need to let her loose about 75 percent of the time I am driving it because it's my DD and I do not tow anything on a regular basis. I do not want to stretch my bolts by unnecessary pushing, I don't know if I'm even pushing it hard but I normally get the turbo up to about 30 psi is that to much?
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Driving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
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I have an early 04, I'm not sure if there's a different in pressure over the years. But I'm curious what normal or average readings are. Btw I did replace the icp and pig tail last year. Here is what I have in psi from my sct
Cold start at idle 680 .23v
Warm idle 635 .24v
Cruising 1800rpms about 1500 .32v
WOT about 4200 .78v
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I wasn't sure if I should be having any sway at all while pulling our new 30' TT. Dry wieght is 7200lbs, GVW is right at 9500lbs, tongue weight is around 800lbs, and I'm running a Fastway E2 WDH with sway control built in. While towing this weekend, I was experiencing a very slight amount of sway. It wasn't what I considered to be much of an issue but my wife and daughter both asked why the truck felt as if it was moving side to side slightly. When I say slightly, imagine a small glass of water filled about 1/4" from the top. The sway wouldn't have been enough to spill the water, but enough to sway it slightly back and forth. Winds were about 3-8mph hitting me from the north west (in relations to my trucks heading).
I do have some suspension enhancements that might have contributed to the sway. I have roughly increased the rear end by 4" by adding add-a-leafs and F350 blocks. I have Fox 2.0 shocks and a Helwig Bigwig sway bar. Plus I'm running 295 Nitto Trail grapplers , all 4 at 80psi. I've read that the more aggressive tires could also be a contributor.
My question ultimately is: should I be feeling any sway at all? Is a very slight amount of sway normal when pulling a 30' 9500lb rear hitch pull?
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It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?
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Decided to try and swap in LED bulbs into the sub par factory headlights and since some engineer somewhere decided it would be easier for me to have to remove the grill and headlights just to change a bulb, I noticed that the dual horn set up had the horns pointing back to the truck. Even worse, right in front of all the fins on the CAC, Raidator, etc. to reduce muffle the sound.
Now I don't know how things are where you live, but generally when I honk at someone, I'm not doing it so I can hear my own horn. The general idea I thought was so that others could hear my horn.
Of course the same engineers in charge of headlight bulb swaps also figured out the wiring for the horns so you can't just loosen the nuts (10 mm) and rotate said horns 180 degrees. You can rotate the driver side horn 180 degrees and call it good, but the factory wiring won't reach the passenger side horn if you rotate it.
You can however remove both horns and use a small screwdriver to unplug the harness that joins the two horns. If you swap the horns right to left and left to right, then you can put the factory wiring back together in a manner that leaves the horn outlets pointing forward towards others.
I can't insert pics into the thread as I describe things. I used to do that but FTE seems to have gotten rid of my gallery so I can't upload to there anymore and then post photos in the thread that way. So now you get them uploaded as attachments at the end of my rambling.
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I have searched and the only thing close is bad sensor for water in fuel light but it does not say they lost power. When driving or leaving from a stopped position, if I put any extra load on engine by pressing on accelerator pedal fast the water in fuel light comes on and the glow plug light comes on and the truck loses all power. Not 12V power just engine power. I have to let off the pedal and the lights go out and I have power again. Until I press the pedal hard again and it does it again. I have drained the filters and replaced them and still the same.
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What the normal tire pressures are so the TPS will not alarm? The sticker on the door says 65 front and 80 rear for my F-350, but I think this is a bit high when empty or not pulling trailers, etc. Additionally, is there anyway to adjust the TPS settings?
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I currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
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I'm having a bit of a cold start issue, need to know if it is normal or something is wrong. I live in southern Indiana and it's gotten down to a VERY cold 50 degrees (lol) and the past two mornings I have started it up and it seems to have a misfire first thing in the morning and it will kick into high-idle mode and after I shut it off and start it back up about 20 seconds later after the ECT gets above 100* and it runs perfectly. It has brand new 190/100 injectors from Warren, an IDP tune, and I am running 13 quarts of FoMoCo 15w-40 oil with 2 quarts of hot shot stiction eliminator (tried it before installing new injectors). And also throwing no codes. Is this normal or should I be looking for a problem?
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I have a 12 cc 4x4 drw. I hauled a bull and a cow about 100 miles this morning. I was pullling approx 6k including the trailer. The temp was about 75*. 50-60 miles into the trip I switched to the oil temp screen and the oil temp was 224* and the trannie was 199*. I was going into the wind which was about 20 mph, and I was traveling 75mph. The truck never lugged down heck it never shifted out of 6th gear. When I unloaded the cattle the temp came back down around 190*. Headed home and the temp got up to 226* and the tranni went to 205*. This was going with the wind and just the trailer. I am using oem 10w-30 motorcraft and motorcraft filters. The truck just has 9k miles on it. I am thinking that the oil temp is a little warm, should I be worried. What should I look for to diagnose. I like to do my own diagnosing if I can, the dealers around me can't find anything wrong even if you point the leak out to them. Should I be using a different oil?
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I know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
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