Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Airlift Wireless Controller Won't Inflate - Airbags / Compressor Does Not Run
Apr 21, 2012
My Airlift wireless will not inflate my airbags-compressor does not run. It was working - only used it once since it was installed 2 months ago. Tried it this week- no joy. I get the error BL OC,(bloc) then sometimes FA IL. I called Airlift Friday and the tech said it sound like compressor might be bad so I should get 12 volts to the compressor and see if it runs. I did that and compressor runs fine. I also checked to be sure I have 12 volts going into the wire loom and I do.
When I try to inflate the using wireless controller, the manifold clicks but there is no voltage going to the compressor. Sounds like there is a breakdown within or between the receiver and/or manifold. I do see the wireless controller sending a signal but nothing happens except on click in the manifold. I guess I will have to wait until Monday to call again. It frustrating since it's Saturday when I am able to work on it but can't get tech support.
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2015 F350 CC LB FX4. I routinely haul 2-4k of cargo in the back of my truck for 375 mile jaunts.... I do this at least once a week. Most I've ever hauled in the bed was 5k and it rode better than it does with 2k in the bed.
The ride is awful and the bounciness and instability driving on uneven roads or corning at speed is starting to really annoy me. Would a set of good airbags cure this problem? Hit a pot hole while corning on the highway around 60-70mph and you better hang on... feels like the back end is going to jump off the ground.
On my last trip down it was so bad I actually pulled off the side of the highway to see if one of my rear springs was broken. And yes... the cargo is evenly distributed under my truck ARE canopy. E rated tires set at 80 PSI rear, 65 PSI front.
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I don't seem to be able to get my trailer brakes to activate to we're I feel the working as the brakes are applied. I like the trailer to come on sooner and feel the trailer braking a bit more than the truck. I try the slide control and I have to go just about 3/4 of the way to get any braking on trailer. I had same with the 2011 and now the 2013. This a new trailer as was the previous trailer and the braking was the same. Trailer brakes are adjusted. I have it set on 10 as I did on the other truck. The other truck was 2011 and a trailer was a 2012 both new, now this set up is a 2013 trailer and 2013 truck and no difference in the two braking on the trailers. Are they all like that? I have installed brake controllers in my trucks and never had an issue not having enough adjustment for the trailer.
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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Adding a third axle to my dual axle 5th wheel toyhauler... was told I may need a different brake controller by someone on a different forum.
At first I thought they were talking about the one in the truck but I would guess the truck brake controller can handle atleast three axles worth of brakes. Now I am wondering if I have another "control box" on the camper somwhere.
I see many people pulling 3 axle trailers and I would assume you have brakes on all 3 axles. Am I good to assume the stock Ford brake controller can handle 3 axles with brakes on all of them ??
Does a trailer/toyhauler/camper have another "control box" somwhere that regulates the brakes as well ??
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I have a 07 f250 6.0l and it has 112k on it, I've owned it for over 4yrs, since 45k, and no issues, but this morning I went out to start my truck didn't start, tried again and started, but the glow plug controller made a funny buzzing noise, (making that noise for a few weeks), so I went to ford and bought a new controller, so I hope that fixed that, but on my way to work I was at a traffic light and noticed that my ficmv were between 46-48.5, icp 23-24%, vgt around 68%, truck was at temp, should I start to worry about the ficm??, I have to replace my ground on driver side battery, noticed that it is corroding, gonna do that, I have 2 yellow top optima batteries about 3 yrs old....
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
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Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
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Compressor continually clicks off and on..... No cold air.... Checked freon seems to be full.... Big line never gets cold?
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So the A/C compressor died on my truck. I am looking at replacing it myself and it looks rather tight in there. My labor manual says I have to pull the fan/fan clutch, fan shroud and right inner fender to gain access.
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I recently picked up a 2005 F350 6.0. I got it cheap with a plugged oil cooler, and went in planning to do studs, gaskets, and all the Ford updates just to have it out of the way. When taking it apart, I quickly noticed that the compressor was damaged. Looks to me like some foreign object(s) entered the turbo, would bounce off the wheel, impact the cover, and repeat.
Engine seemed to run great. Turbo spooled quickly and while I wasn't paying close attention, I'd glance when accelerating and it'd be in the neighborhood of 27 PSI. Engine cranks evenly and starts well, so there's no obvious engine damage. I'll inspect the bores closely with the heads off.
So my main question: Assuming no damage elsewhere, Do I need just a wheel? There is some pitting and high spots on the cover, but could it be carefully worked down with the cover removed? Do I just need to get a wheel and a cover? Or just a whole new turbo? Looking for a budget-friendly option to remedy this properly.
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I am looking to mount a viair tank and compressor on my truck, I was thinking underneath on the frame. Have any pics?
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I have a small oil leak that is showing up under my turbo compressor housing. It's starting to show a little in the valley. Not a big leak, just not sure were the source is and would like you opinions and recommendations. I have been cleaning it up every few days, drive it then use a mirror and rag to try and locate the source.
Here are some pics, I hope I took some that are good enough. Unfortunately I cleaned up the oil before the pics, but I circled and marked the location.
Concerned about the turbo, but I don't understand this leak since it's not coming from the center section. The turbo drain pipe is new and it does not seem to be coming from there. The leak is not enough to show a change on the dipstick the last 3-4,000 miles as far as I can tell.
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Strange thing happened yesterday and again today. I have my compressor hooked up to up fitter #3 ,turned it on yesterday to fill the tank back up to 120psi. Before it filled up i shut the truck off to fuel up..but the compressor kept running for a few seconds after the truck was off. and today doing some running around the compressor turned on out of the blue when i was driving..but the switch was off.
The shut off switch (on the compressor itself) turns it on at around 90psi and shuts off at 120, but the thing filled my tank to 180 before i noticed it was on, pulled over to shut the truck off and again it ran for 10-15 seconds after the truck was off. I'm pretty confused. maybe it has something to do with the build up of snow under the truck, we just got 16" two days ago. but still when the up fitter is off shouldn't that cut the power from the accessory hooked up to it?
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Every time my air compressor would shut off I got a loud annoying pop through the radio. Even if the radio was off I would still get the pop. I knew it couldn't be good for all the electronics in the truck so I tried a mod.
Diodes across the relay signal terminals need to be installed in performance carts to protect the electronics. I put one of these diodes on my truck this week. 100% of the pop is gone.
I used this one : ACC-KIT-CSD-1
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So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
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I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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I have just installed air bags on my 2015 F350 DRW and looking for a location for the air compressor and control unit for the wireless manifold.
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AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
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