So after updating Sync in my Super Duty the system no longer receives text messages on the stereo. Before the update if I was paying attention I could hit a button on the screen and the stereo would speak the text message. Now all I get is my phone is not blue tooth compatible with the system.
View 14 RepliesI noticed on a few occasions this weekend that the clock is not changing when the time does. It will go 10 -12 minutes usually and then change. However one time it went almost an hour and a half before it changed. I am lost. I've looked for a setting that my son or I may have changed, and read the manual, but still can not find anything about it. At first, I thought it was because I didn't have anything on in the truck. No radio, navi, anything. But after turning it on, still does it.
View 14 RepliesThe radio text display data stopped updating on my unit and still shows the artists/song titles from when it stopped working (several months ago). Whether there a procedure to reset this?
View 4 RepliesTruck Details:
2004 6.0 F250 extended cab.
Mileage: 1,162,000 Kilometres (the dash stopped at 999,999)
Egr is deleted.
Motor has approximately 120,000 miles on it.
The previous owner delivered campers with it. He said that almost everything in had been replaced except the transmission.
I've had an intermittent crank, no start since I've owned the truck. (2.5 years) It's only happened maybe 5 times and the second attempt was always successful....until yesterday morning.
It threw a few codes but none I believe related to the no-start. One code for a transfer case issue, one for a turbo under-boost, one for the ac clutch not communicating, one for the exhaust pressure sensor not communicating. I would list the actual code #'s but after the first scan I reset them due to my ignorance.
While cranking I get the following numbers:
FICM LPWR- 11 to 12.5 volts
FICM MPWR- 47.5 to 48.5 volts
ICP v- up to 1.8 volts
ICP pressure- up to 1493 psi
IPR %- 15 to 55%
No FICM sync
No ckp/cmp sync
RPM- 0 to 60 and fluctuating
FUELPW- 0.00 ms
I've checked hertz across the red and orange wire at the centre plug of the pcm while cranking and i believe it tested good at 1.4 hertz. The batteries are both getting old and I plan on replacing them but the voltage seems adequate.
The following Forscan tests all checked out good.
PCM KOEO
PCM KOEO injector electrical
TCM KOEO
There were a few others but I think they're irrelevant and they checked out good anyway. I've visually inspected for chaffing but I need to look harder still. There were definitely no codes regarding the cpm, ckp or ficm. Based on what I've read, the fluctuating rpm reading should point to something I'm not aware of.
2004 6.0 Truck has been slow to start and sometimes took a few tries to get it to fire up. On monday the Truck would not start. The FICM was not getting sync. I figured it could be a bad connection to the FICM. I pulled the FICM, cleaned the contacts and reconnected it. The truck fired up. It ran all day Tuesday without incident but wednesday morning it would again not start. Again what was missing was FICM sync. This time disconnecting and plugging back in the FICM did not fix the problem. I have spent the last two days troubleshooting and am out of things to try.
The problem as it stands right now
The truck will crank but not start. Scanner says it has oil pressure, a steady 48v (FICM has new power supply). The IPR sits around 50% when cranking at 1200psi. However, the FICM will not get sync. I have worked my way down and tested both the Cam and Crank sensors from the PCM. The Crank sensor has a resistance of 360 ohms and produces a AC voltage of 500mV when cranking. The camshaft sensor produces 100mV AC when cranking (camshaft sensor was replaced as the original produced AC voltage seemed low 20mV, new sensor produces 100mV). I have tested the camshaft sensor at the sensor and at the PCM connector. This has lead me to believe both the cam and crank sensors are ok and their signals are being probably transmitted to the PCM.
I have tried to check the inputs to the FICM to confirm the signals are getting there. I was unable to find a good pin out diagram for the 2004 FICM but what I found told me the crankshaft was pin 5 and the camshaft was pin 10. When cranking, pin 5 (crankshaft) did not produce a signal and pin 10 (camshaft) had a 200mV DC signal. Despite searching I have been unable to find what the input signals to the FICM should be.
Right now I suspect bad wiring between the PCM and the FICM, or a bad PCM. This is based on having good signals to the PCM, but (what I think may be) a lack of crankshaft pos. sensor signal to the FICM. I am specifically looking for what the crank/camshaft pos. sensor signal at the FICM should be, as well as confirmation/disconfirmation on the diagnosis of bad PCM or PCM-to-FICM wiring
Truck Details
Ford F350 King Ranch 2004 6.0
Truck build date 11/18/2003
350,000 km
Studded
New FICM power supply
Stock truck; don't run any tunes
I have a 2006 F350 with around 208k mikes, automatic with a no start, 0 No FICM Sync.
The CMP and CKP has "no / 0" for synchronization and a "NO" synchronization from the FICM. Should this be "yes / 1" when trying to start?
The camshaft position sensor status indicated "yes fault".
FICM is at 48V,
DTC currently on
P2614 camshaft position signal output/open circuit - CMP
Glow plug circuit cylinder 2, 4, 5, 6 (these have been on for 12months and 1,000 miles and never had an issue starting)
B1352 - left front temperature damper motor
B1360 - left rear temperature damper motor
U1900 - CAN - communication BUS fault
I am running all OEM filters
My SYNC voice commands witch I refer to as " Shiela" has quit working. No voice and it does not recognize phone. Just displays " no phone" ????
View 12 Replies04 6.0 with no FICM sync and no fuel pulse width. Crank/cam sync yes. All other data is good. Tried known good FICM and PCM but nothing. Had glow plug codes thats it. Found chaffed wires due to mice. Replaced damaged Injector harness still nothing. Fuel pressure is good btw.
View 13 RepliesMy 6.0 2005 Excursion has been running great lately except for an issue starting last week. I go to leave work and it cranks over-and keeps cranking over. I fire up the torque pro app and see that I have no FICM sync. It just reads 0. I pop the hood and fumble around the FICM connectors. Try cranking again and it cranks and cranks and finally kicks in. I have not had this happen since but am paranoid now that this will occur again in the worst possible place and listen to everyone in the family tell me to get rid of my prize and get a newer truck. I monitor quite a few things on the Torque pro app but could others chime in what I should be monitoring in the meantime to try and solve this issue.
View 4 RepliesI've had my 6.0 for 2.5 years now and got really acquainted with what makes what noise, and how long starts took etc. recently this morning, i had a longer start, longer than a normal long start (4-5 seconds). Felt too long to me, but it started and didn't turn it off to try again. Got to my destination, turn the truck off and brough up ICP, FICM, FICM SYNC and cranked and watched.
After 1 second ICP jumped to 600 then to 770 and 2-3 seconds later FICM sync finally read 1 and it fired. What can be causing the sync to take so long? I have had intermittent no starts before, maybe 4 in the 2.5 years i've had it and every time i have pushed on the fuse blocks by the driver batteries, and also pushed on the FICM connections to make sure everything was okay. That seemed to always work.. But no amount of pushing on them are solving the long start that is happening...
Issues with your sync/radio that in the lower right corner it says to "connection error-see delear"?
My controls on my steering wheel will no longer change the channel or adjust the volume. When it does change the channel it goes crazy and changes multiple channels.
I have also noticed my GPS arrow seems to drift off the road I'm traveling on and then will jump back to where I'm driving.
2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
View 14 RepliesSync used to read me any test messages that came in on my Samsung Galaxy S6. But lately it doesn't do that anymore. Is there a setting that might have gotten turned off?
View 14 RepliesMy ipod wakes up only 60% of the time when I start the car engine. For the other 40% i have to disconnect and reconnect the usb cable for a link to establish. I read somewhere that a firmware update can work but a firmware update seems to be bundled with a map update which I am reluctant to pay.
View 7 RepliesStarted today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
View 8 RepliesIt only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
Keywords: Diesel fuel, tank capacity, 26 gallons, fuel tank, capacity, false advertisement.
On my 2012 F250 with 19k miles I have NEVER been able to fill tank with more than 22.4 gallons of diesel fuel. That was the day I ran out of diesel going to fill up thinking I had 26 gallons. Once the light comes on I'm filling up, I have every tank fill DOCUMENTED with (date/cost/gals/trip/$per gal).
Talked to local dealer Raleigh, NC , their explanation was fuel pickup was raised to prevent contaminates from getting into injectors. They advertise 26 gallons, should be able to access 26 gallons.
I've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
View 7 Replies