Blows cold, so not a freon issue, but it will sometimes just suddenly stop blowing cold as if I punched the "A/C" button disengaging the compressor. Sometimes if I just wait a while it will come back on by itself, sometimes I have to stop and shut the truck clear off and take the key out, then start it back up and all is well again and it blows cold again.
High pressure switch failing???
BCM issue???
Ac is no longer blowing cold air and was thinking about trying a can of ac pro on her. However, I have heard some pretty bad stories about people killing their compressors and overcharging the system. Is it not worth the risk.
View 7 RepliesJust as the title says the ac on my truck is not blowing cold like it used to, it has enough air flow but it's just not cold?
View 5 RepliesSo, trucks A/C is not blowing cold, and i replaced the compressor a couple years ago ( 40k miles?) took the truck to a shop to have them use one of them sniffers to check for a refrigerant leak. Was told that it needs a new evaporator core. Charged the truck up with refrigerant and it blew cold for a while but is now blowing hot again and it's summer time here in FL
So, replacing evaporator core here? I tried to find some how-to videos on youtube, but to no avail. I'd like to do it myself if possible. I think the shop quoted 3-400 in labor atleast.
So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
View 14 RepliesI have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
View 14 RepliesMy A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 RepliesAfter 2yrs and 1mo, my DC power 270XP amp died. I put the almost 10 yr old factory alt back on and everything is good again, except for the glaring fact that I have a dead alternator. It is a month beyond warranty (of course).
Truck has been running great. Oil cooler, EGR bulletproof cooler, STC done in Dec at Ford due to high deltas. I have a small stereo - one 12" sub woofer, otherwise nothing that really stresses the electrical system. I did the "big three" with 1/0 copper - cost a fortune, saw no difference - but that could have been an issue for the alt.
I left a message today with etch support but did not get a call back. I hope they make good on this - I waited almost 4 mo's to get this thing and it was supposed to outlast my truck.
My 02 F350 7.3 new to me trucks ac stopped blowing cold. Not air gap issue (shims have been removed prior to my ownership-I pulled hub and checked), the charge is good (according to the shop I went to for evac and refill), and the compressor's cycling quickly. I'm no HVAC guy by any stretch. I have a cheapie gauge from days long ago that I connected to my low side port (which I know isn't definitive) and it reads from 25 to about 40/45 depending on the cycle.
Additional info that may not be anything:
1) Where the line goes from accumulator to evaporator the foam seal is slightly messed up and I feel ice cold air coming out of the housing.
2) The line is warm before the orifice and cold after it.
3) The lines going to the accumulator are both hot (after taking it to shop, before were lukewarm).
4) The condenser doesn't seem to have excessive plugging and I have rinsed it with garden hose sprayer with no difference.
5) The air from the vents blows good, just warm.
6) I've replaced the actuator for the blend door already.
99 f-350 crew cab. The A/C is not blowing cold as it should. Have already replaced the compressor and clutch, orifice tube and accumulator, also cleaned evaporator coil and put a new blower motor on, also a new blend door actuator. Also put a valve in to block coolant from the heater core. System has had vacuum pulled and charged correctly by my mechanic, he says he doesn't know of anything else to do, that it was as good as its going to get. Ive been in 2 more trucks identical to mine and the A/C will freeze you out, as to where mine will not come close. Temp coming out of the vents barely gets down to 60 degrees
View 14 RepliesI have an 05 Excursion that has a rebuilt stock turbo on it, installed before I bought the truck. I installed a 3.5" downpipe/4" after exhaust with no cat and no muffler about a year and a half ago. It seems like suddenly my truck is whistling a lot more than it used to at idle. I'm not unhappy about the whistle sound, just wondering if this is possible (i.e. turbo vanes sticking or something else) or if I'm imagining things.
View 5 RepliesI purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
View 14 RepliesThis morning, I started my truck to go somewhere and less than a minute into my drive, the engine suddenly died. I tried cranking it again to which it started but less than a second later it quit again. That's when I noticed my FMP on my SGII was at 0v. When I got it back into a parking spot, I pulled the FICM and tested the connectors as well as the relays and they all were normal.
I decided I will be pulling the FICM again tomorrow and I will be sending it back to FICM repair.com for them to look at as I got a new one from them about 8 months ago. However if it is in case the wiring harness, where is a good place to look. I don't think it is the wiring harness as it seems to have voltage at the connectors.
Also this may be related but earlier this week, my Scangauge froze and I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it didn't connect to the PCM until I reset the SGII to factory settings. I wonder if this is related?
Driving home from work last night my truck just died. I was under load, going up hill, and she just shut down. No power, completely dead.
She'll crank, but not start.
Ever hear of this?
I was out for a short drive this evening and got on it just a little bit to hear that wonderful 6.0 sound and all of a sudden coolant started spraying up on the windshield like I was spraying it from the windshield wipers! My first thought was oh crap I've got a blown head gasket and it puking from my degas bottle. I had a short drive to the house so I eased it on home. My ECT got to 226 with the fan roaring but not cooling it down, luckily it never got over 226. When I got home I opened the hood expecting to see where a bunch of coolant had puked from the degas but instead I saw this. What could cause the radiator to rupture like that? I did spend a good amount of time on my knees on top of the radiator while changing out my oil cooler the first time, then again when I installed my BPD oil cooler. Also I posted in another thread a few days ago about my ECT temps being a little higher than normal, reckon my radiator was clogged and that caused the higher temps and the rupture?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
View 14 RepliesWell it's that time of year to start using my air conditioning. Went to use it today and it is blowing nothing but warm air. Worked perfectly last time I used it last year. I thought about buying that 134a ac recharge kit from auto zone.
View 14 RepliesI have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
View 7 RepliesI had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
So my truck sit for 7 months and went to start and it was cranking fine but all the sudden backlashes a little and now just clicks. I started pulling the glow plugs and have all out except 5 and 7 but still seems stuck I'm trying to pull those. No oil in de gas bottle and also was running a little rough when started but ran good when warmed up. Or am I doing the right thing by pulling the glow plugs before any other diagnosis
View 10 RepliesIt only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.