Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 4th Radiator Leaking At 211,000 Miles?
Apr 11, 2015
, 211,000 miles and the third radiator that was put in this truck is leaking!! Has there been a recall This is not right. I haven't even had the truck five years and this will be over 5 grand in radiators. Is a person suppose to budget an extra grand a year if they want to own a ford diesel?
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I was just outside and noticed a little puddle under the front of the truck. I crowled under her to find orange coolant on the seam of the radiater right above the drain. I thought maybe the drain was open a little but no, it was tight. I have 40000 miles on the truck.
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Read that this is a common issue, leaking out crimped seam on lower LH (2012 F250 King Ranch). I have called Ford customer service twice, they said "we do not have any recall or programs to cover the out of warranty repair". I keep adding coolant and thinking eventually Ford will address this problem. They did cover my bad EGT sensor....
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Recently turned 100k and since have had my exhaust RTD's go out. While fixing that they found the back radiator leaking. Since then both batteries died which didn't surprise me at 40 months. Then my windshield washer started leaking, then my DEF heater went out and two days ago my AC quit. I was ready to buy a new 2015 but now not sure. I've contacted Ford customer service and they are getting with the dealer to see what they may cover but haven't heard anything back yet.
Mine is a 2011 with 105,000 on it. This is pretty frustrating. I have been very pleased with this truck up until now it has been very dependable. However when that dependability begins to go south at only 100k it brings to question what exactly are we paying for here? A heavy duty truck that costs upward of 60k should be one you can count on for a lot longer than that. How Ford approaches this with me is definitely going to have a direct bearing on which 2015 diesel truck is in my driveway in the next few months. Again let me say that i have been very pleased with this truck and FOMOCO in general.
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Ok I now have the dreaded leaking radiator on my 2011. I am wondering how the aftermarket radiators are holding up? I was talking with my local radiator repair shop and they have been repairing the oe radiator with good results. They also claim that they have repaired some aftermarket radiators. He did not mention any brand names so I can not make any claims against them. I am considering a mishimoto replacement.
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In April I replaced the radiator, hoses, water pump and Tstat. I used Mishimoto for the radiator and hoses (silicon). I am having trouble with the hoses leaking where they clamp to the radiator. I put 2 on the lower hose and that seemed to work. No other signs of leak on than drip from the top hose - factory clamp is on and tight as I can turn it - still lost a gallon in 2-3mo. Should I just get a new clamp? OEM stuff was not this prone to leaking ....
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After chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
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On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
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I have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
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I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
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Got my first CEL at just under 40K miles. P4023, Redundant temp sensor range, so looks like I get a new DEF tank sensor. Of course they are on national back-order still. One would have thought that Ford would finally have these in stock but no.....
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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How many of you put a screen in front of all your radiators to keep bugs and stuff from clogging them up? Is there much of an air flow restriction (from the screen)? It is about the first thing I always do when I get a new vehicle.
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I have a 2012 F250 6.7L with about 62,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck new in October 2013. I had my first check engine light last Friday. I scanned it and it was a P20BD (Reductant Heater "B" Control Circuit/Open) is what I found when I searched for it. I had the truck in on Tuesday to the dealer. They are telling me it is the Reductant Pressure Line and the repair will be $690. They didn't have the part so I picked up my truck and have an appointment scheduled for Monday.
Since picking the truck the check engine light hasn't returned. I find this odd and it makes me wonder if they are correct or not in their diagnostics.
The other question I have is isn't the DEF system part of the emissions system? If so why isn't it covered under the emissions system warranty until 80,000 miles or 5 years?
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Well so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
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Fan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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Removing the radiator on these trucks to repair the leak? It looks pretty straight forward. Remove the fluid, grill, hoses, and the few screws on each side that connect the other cooling coils to the main radiator. then hopefully it should slide straight up and out. A radiator shop said they would replace the gasket between the plastic end caps and the radiator if I take it to them. Which brings me to my next question. Is it the gasket that is causing this notorious leak or is it a crack somewhere or a loose crimp? Mine is leaking from the usual spot. Driver side on the bottom at the seam. Then runs down the frame to the ground.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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I know that's a normal msg, but what has me thinking is the fact I've had my truck just over 2 weeks and it only has 1350 miles on it. My understanding is that a tank of DEF should last at least 5000 miles (service interval), which means either my delivery prep guys overlooked filling it or it using way more DEF than it should.
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2005 F350 6.0L, I was towing my toy hauler when the wrench came on the code was P012F. The dealer has put 3 new oil coolers in and claims to have flushed the cooling system out throughty. After that I installed an external coolant filter, an external oil cooler, EGR delete and flushed the cooling system and a turbo back 4 inch exhaust.
I can only drive for around 50 miles then the P012F comes back. What to do except blow it up??????.
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