I had a friend install 18" rims with 35x12.5 tires on my new 2016 F-250 CC SWB that had 18" stock rims. They came off my 2002 Ford 7.3. There is a "creaking" noise coming out of the brake calipers when moving forward slowly with the brakes applied. This never happened with the tires/rims on my 7.3.
View 5 RepliesI have a weird rubbing/squeak noise from what it sounds like the rear. It occurs only after ive been driving for about an hour then it never goes away. Thought it was the pads so I put all new ones on. Maybe a bearing of some sort. I'm totally going nuts over this and cant pinpoint it!
View 14 RepliesI have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0L that's making a vibration noise when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake, just idling. I just recently replaced the front brake pads this past weekend. I looked under the hood and visually checked for any obvious things that could be making the noise and did not find any, I did notice my power steering pump is damp with fluid. Now this noise only occurs when my foot is on the brake, anytime my foot is off the brake, it goes away.
I checked brake fluid level and power steering pump fluid level, both are fine except power steering fluid looks like chocolate milk. I don't know if the power steering pump would be the cause of this, but I'm going to replace it because it's leaking and I'm guessing the fluid for the power steering is way overdue. I've only owned this truck since March of this year and it has 128,000 miles on it. Hopefully this video link to youtube works, the sound in the video is the same noise that I'm hearing from the truck. Where this noise is coming from.
Vibration noise powerstroke - YouTube....
Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
View 3 RepliesIt appears mine is rubbing against the battery tray in my 04 6.0. It just flops around when I push on it. It's not bolted to anything.
View 8 RepliesI just identified an annoying squeak as the right side of the tailgate, right at the hinge, rubbing on the section of the rear passenger side quarter panel (one with FX4 decal) where it curls around to the rear. Any way to easily adjust the tailgate slightly to the drivers side? When the tailgate is up, the gap is noticeably smaller on the passenger side, and when down, the edge of the tailgate rubs the edge of the quarter panel, paint to paint.
View 1 Replies6.0L Forum - I've noticed an unusual sound on my truck. Upon driving if I make a turn more than 15 degrees a "rubbing" sound can be heard through the turn, no "knocking" is not present. Once the steering wheel is straight the sound changes to a "whir". If I turn less than 15 degrees a noticeable sound can not be heard. As the RPM's vary, the sound will also vary. If I get out of the truck and listen for this sound in the engine bay I can not hear it. The sound is only distinct within the cab. It sounds like a weak motor trying to move something or a pump running low, my guess in the dark.
I've checked the oil level - good
I've checked the transmission fluid level - good
I've checked the power steering fluid level - good
I've checked the brake fluid - good
I have read that a master cylinder could wear and create a rubbing/unusual sound. What else should I check for? The truck has 238,000 miles.
I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
View 5 RepliesSince day one my 2016 F250 occasionally has a reed sounding vibration at highways speeds near the passenger side occupant handle on the windshield pillar. Talked to a service advisor at the dealer about it, what it could be, so this must not be a common problem . The issue is intermittent and can not be reproduced on demand. I tried blowing compressed air all around the area of the Windshield to see if I could reproduce the sound in a shop setting, but no luck. Only thing in common with this noise is 75+ MPH during a rather windy day. I'm a little reluctant to drop it off at the dealer since intermittent problems are hard to diagnose.
YouTube...
Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
I was parking my truck and the brakes wouldn't depress and I almost crashed into another vehicle that was parked.
View 14 RepliesAnd new 2015 king ranch hooked my trailer up for the first time today... all lights work and brake controller reads gain output but brakes on the trailer do not work at all.
They work fine on my other truck?
I'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
View 4 RepliesI've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
View 5 RepliesStill learning about my 2006 F-350 dually.
I've been hearing a clicking sound when I hit the brakes. Not a thump or a growl, just a metallic click. I'm wondering if it's the pads or that retaining clip or possibly the ball joints. New brakes & rotors this past fall. I just started hearing it now that I can drive with the windows down. Can't hear or feel anything with the windows up.
So I figured I would crawl under her today and grease up the ball joints, Pittman arm and whatever other grease fittings I see. Well, I don't see any? I have a few on my 7.3L's but I don't see any on the front end of my 6.0L.
Was on the way home today and was taking a long sweeping left-hand curve at 60 and got a horrible shake in the steering wheel. Kinda scared me a bit and let out of the throttle a bit. Didn't happen after and never has before. I'm under the impression it is more shocks maybe then steering, Reason I say that although I don't get a lot of bounce if the road isn't perfectly smooth I can really tell it. What do ya'll think?
View 14 RepliesStarting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
View 14 Replies