Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2016 F350 Started Losing Speed Down To About 58 MPH
Jul 19, 2017
I have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.
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I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
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2011 F350 diesel with 10,000 miles. I have been experiencing problems with the truck loosing power, making rough running noise (pinging like an older diesel), and vibrating. As though the motor is bogging down. It usually occurs on small inclines or hills with the truck in higher gears and low rpms. It will also occur running on flat ground 65-70 mph. Had it occur once while turning the truck around in 1st gear and low rpms. Depressing the accelerator will bring the truck out of it.
This problem occurs randomly sometimes a couple of times a week to not at all. Took to dealer and they found no codes and of couse it didn't do it on the hour long test drive I took the mechanic on. However they did say they had two other owners come in with the same complaints, but could not get trucks to repeat the issue. Problem usually occurs in the hotter part of the day, maybe just coincidence. I had seen similar posts with this problem but no conclusions.
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I have an '03 F350 6.0 that occasionally wouldn't start until it had cooled off for about 30 minutes. A friend of mine recommended adding a little marvel mystery oil to the oil system, I did research this and found no negative posts, but now it has been 2 hours and it still won't start. Could i have added too much and thinned the oil out too much?
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I have a '15 Ford F-350 w/ 6.7 - 34k miles. Most of my driving is towing a 30'RV trailer. Today, without any trailer, I was on a local interstate and at around 65 mph on a bumpy stretch of highway the death wobble started. Had it come and go 3 times in a few miles requiring me to slow to about 45 or so to stop it. Never had any such happening prior.
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My dad has a 04 f350 6.0 and on his way back from a trip he filled up and drove 60 miles and it started smoking white smoke, after he let it sit a while he added fuel injector cleaner thinking it might have been somewhat bad fuel. Drove it 20 more miles and it it changed to black smoke and started sputtering like it was missing. Blowing a lot of smoke. Took it to ford dealer and they checked for codes and it said the #8 injector was bad and needed replaced. My question is would the injector going bad cause all the smoke and missing?
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A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
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2016 F350 6.7; ccsrw, 22K on truck (zero issues previously). Stock other than titan fuel tank that was installed at 100 miles.
700 miles into todays trip, pulling trailer, snowing, in 4x4, tow/haul; pulled out to pass, got into it for a bit and got "reduced engine power" error, truck slowed, would not show boost on gauge, wouldn't rev over ~1900. CEL is on.
Pulled over, stopped, checked under/over and didn't find anything. Shut off truck, started back up, CEL is still on, but truck runs OK. Ran for another 20 miles or so and was OK for how I drove it (including boost showing on gauge). Not hot rodding, crappy road conditions (snow). Got on a big hill from dead start and got into it a bit, about 3K same error came on and she went back into limp mode. Same deal, stopped, shut off, back on, was able to keep going. Was only couple miles from motel at that point, so she is on break right now.
Of course I'm 400 miles from home and nowhere near a dealer. I have a code scanner, but nothing with me to pair it with (daughter has tablet with her, ha ha).
Should I keep going or find a dealer/tow/other? If she will keep running "normally" below 3K, then I can make it home as I don't need to horse it that bad on the roads I'll be on.
Truck has had fuel filters replaced on schedule, dealer has done all service work (oil, etc). Fuel filters were done 7500 miles ago.
This trip, was on third tank of fuel. Had just put in 30 gallons at last (big) truck stop about 15 miles before this issue happened, have 50 miles on this tank. That was 30 gallons into 50 gallon tank.
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i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
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My new 2016 F350 6.7, every single time I start the truck, I get the low oil pressure light. Even after letting the truck idle. I'm concerned because I have no gauge inside to see what it's running and I also have what sounds like a can of rocks noise at idle and when I'm slowly accelerating I hear a clacking noise. Is this normal or should I be headed to the stealership? Truck only has 1100 miles. I've owned it 3 weeks and this is really making me wonder. I forgot to add that I'm in Louisiana and it's not often really cold. It was 84 today and I had the same thing. Even after I drove it and turned it off. Started it back up, same light.
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Is there a way to shut off the TPMS? Can you adjust the working pressures? My 2016 F350 which I have had now for 3 weeks, has 65psi in the front and the rear is 80psi. which empty rides like a rock. I want to lower it down to 60psi (rear). This made a heck of a difference on my 2008 Dually. Think that will cause a light?
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I was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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I purchased a 2016 f350 XLT 6.7 it's basically two weeks old with roughly 1500 the horsepower and fuel economy is incredible however it's developed a terrible shake during regen. It occurs every time regen and shifting down isn't working. Hard to believe a two week old truck has to go back to the dealer and from what I'm reading it sounds like they're not solving it.
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I have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
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Well, I swapped a 2011 F250 SC for an F350 CC and I really enjoy driving it. 300 miles on the clock. My old 250 had the block heater and the pigtail to plug it in was low in front of the radiator. This truck also has the block heater, but I cannot find the pigtail to plug it in. In 2016 where Ford hid it at?
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I have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
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I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
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Recently while changing the oil, I noticed a great deal of white crystals around the Reductant Injector. This is the point where DEF is injected into the exhaust. There is a heat shield around the connection and that shield was moved up by the growing crystals.
The hose that connects to the injector is simply one of those press lock types, i.e., you press on either side of it to remove it, and it simply locks in place by pressing it on the tube. This is the point where it seems to be leaking.
I have been tracking my DEF usage pretty close and I seem to get around 4900 miles from five gallons of DEF. No towing whatsoever, daily commuter 30 miles a day.
It's a 2016 F350 6.7 PS with 12,000 miles.
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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