Is there a way to shut off the TPMS? Can you adjust the working pressures? My 2016 F350 which I have had now for 3 weeks, has 65psi in the front and the rear is 80psi. which empty rides like a rock. I want to lower it down to 60psi (rear). This made a heck of a difference on my 2008 Dually. Think that will cause a light?
View 10 RepliesI am getting ready to go on vacation this weekend with my f350 and I was driving today when suddenly the truck shut down while going at about 25 mph. I tried to start it and it just kept cranking. I got it started 5 mins later and it threw a P0069 code. I drove for about 2 more miles and it shut down again, and started right back up. I'm guessing map sensor? This was the last thing I needed to happen!
View 14 Replies2005 f350 6.0. I was driving my truck and it seemed like someone had shut the fuel off to truck ! i had it towed to the house and was doing research and watch a video on checking the ficm with a volt meter..when i touch the positive post from meter the ficm started smoking and sizzzling...but back tothe truck when i try to start it i have no pre warm up sounds coming from the truck and the truck just turns over strong ..no start...i was going to replace the ficm but didnt want to spend the money to fry another if that is not my problem..also the # 5 fuse under the hood keeps blowing.
View 5 RepliesFuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
View 5 Replies2016 F350 6.7; ccsrw, 22K on truck (zero issues previously). Stock other than titan fuel tank that was installed at 100 miles.
700 miles into todays trip, pulling trailer, snowing, in 4x4, tow/haul; pulled out to pass, got into it for a bit and got "reduced engine power" error, truck slowed, would not show boost on gauge, wouldn't rev over ~1900. CEL is on.
Pulled over, stopped, checked under/over and didn't find anything. Shut off truck, started back up, CEL is still on, but truck runs OK. Ran for another 20 miles or so and was OK for how I drove it (including boost showing on gauge). Not hot rodding, crappy road conditions (snow). Got on a big hill from dead start and got into it a bit, about 3K same error came on and she went back into limp mode. Same deal, stopped, shut off, back on, was able to keep going. Was only couple miles from motel at that point, so she is on break right now.
Of course I'm 400 miles from home and nowhere near a dealer. I have a code scanner, but nothing with me to pair it with (daughter has tablet with her, ha ha).
Should I keep going or find a dealer/tow/other? If she will keep running "normally" below 3K, then I can make it home as I don't need to horse it that bad on the roads I'll be on.
Truck has had fuel filters replaced on schedule, dealer has done all service work (oil, etc). Fuel filters were done 7500 miles ago.
This trip, was on third tank of fuel. Had just put in 30 gallons at last (big) truck stop about 15 miles before this issue happened, have 50 miles on this tank. That was 30 gallons into 50 gallon tank.
i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
View 2 RepliesMy new 2016 F350 6.7, every single time I start the truck, I get the low oil pressure light. Even after letting the truck idle. I'm concerned because I have no gauge inside to see what it's running and I also have what sounds like a can of rocks noise at idle and when I'm slowly accelerating I hear a clacking noise. Is this normal or should I be headed to the stealership? Truck only has 1100 miles. I've owned it 3 weeks and this is really making me wonder. I forgot to add that I'm in Louisiana and it's not often really cold. It was 84 today and I had the same thing. Even after I drove it and turned it off. Started it back up, same light.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.
I purchased a 2016 f350 XLT 6.7 it's basically two weeks old with roughly 1500 the horsepower and fuel economy is incredible however it's developed a terrible shake during regen. It occurs every time regen and shifting down isn't working. Hard to believe a two week old truck has to go back to the dealer and from what I'm reading it sounds like they're not solving it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
View 14 RepliesWell, I swapped a 2011 F250 SC for an F350 CC and I really enjoy driving it. 300 miles on the clock. My old 250 had the block heater and the pigtail to plug it in was low in front of the radiator. This truck also has the block heater, but I cannot find the pigtail to plug it in. In 2016 where Ford hid it at?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
Recently while changing the oil, I noticed a great deal of white crystals around the Reductant Injector. This is the point where DEF is injected into the exhaust. There is a heat shield around the connection and that shield was moved up by the growing crystals.
The hose that connects to the injector is simply one of those press lock types, i.e., you press on either side of it to remove it, and it simply locks in place by pressing it on the tube. This is the point where it seems to be leaking.
I have been tracking my DEF usage pretty close and I seem to get around 4900 miles from five gallons of DEF. No towing whatsoever, daily commuter 30 miles a day.
It's a 2016 F350 6.7 PS with 12,000 miles.
A few weeks ago, the TPMS light (and the start-up warning) came on. I checked all the tire pressures and they were fine. I checked the spare tire, and sure enough, it was low and I fixed it. However, the TPMS warning still comes on every time I start the truck. It's not the flashing icon that indicates a problem with the system, it's just the steady "low tire" yellow light.
Not only is it annoying, but it won't indicate if there really is a low tire.
I know the old TPMS sensors only worked when the tire was rolling. If the modern sensors work that way, could it be the spare tire monitor? Is there anyway to know which sensor is sending the warning? I know the dealer is going to charge me an arm and a leg to look at this, so I'd like to know what's going on before I take it in.
Had my TPMS warning go off yesterday on the road 400 miles from home. Checked all the tires, all within spec and continued on. But started to wonder if the spare tire also has a TPMS unit and it could be the spare fell below the threshold. I have not checked it yet, but figured I would ask if the spare also has TPMS.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
I had the low tire pressure message and light come on back when i was visiting california, about 3 weeks ago..i checked the tire pressure, and a couple tires were maybe 5 psi low at the most.. i aired them back up to the right pressure (as stated on the door pillar sticker) and the damned light/message is still coming on.. how do I reset the TPMS? it says in the manual to just drive the truck 20mph+ for about 2 mins after getting the tire pressure correct, and the light/message should turn off. i have done that...
View 14 RepliesFor the last couple months when not towing I take the front tires to 65 psi and the rears to 50 psi. It gives me the warning light which I click OK to every time I start it. This weekend I put everything back to 80 psi getting ready to tow and I can't get the warning light to go out anymore. I double checked my pressure to make sure everything was OK and it was. I will be taking it in unless someone knows a reset or something else to check out before I do.
View 8 Replies2013 F350 SRW . Pressure is correct . Anything special you need to do to make the light go away ?
View 14 RepliesGot 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.
Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.
Any real world experience on battery life?