Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2016 F250 - Click Sound From Transmission Area When Sifting From Park To Reverse
Apr 11, 2016
I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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What is the source of the sound? Listen for the clunk b/w 3 and 4 seconds. I just dropped off my 2016 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x2 at the dealership. I'm afraid that they will say the sound is a characteristic but I never had the sound on my 2011 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x4. This sound happens when I go from drive to reverse or when using the exhaust brake when towing. The sound does not exist when the transmission is cold only when it is fully hot. It will also make this noise when climbing a really steep hill in first gear with fiver and the torque converter needs to slip a little.
As far as I can tell all of the u joints are tight and the axial support is tight I only have 2000 miles on my truck.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
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This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
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When I am slowing down my speed in my 2012 Santa Fe SE and about 0-1 mph, there is a "click" sound that comes from the shifter of the transmission. It can be duplicated.
While this may be perfectly normal, I have only begun to both HEAR it and FEEL it. (at 10,000 miles) it never was this prevalent.
Is it a solenoid?
Is it a switch?
Is it potentially bad news?
I made a video capturing the event! Diagnose Cause Of Sound 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Transmission - YouTube
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This has going on for a few months now off and on. Whenever drive my F hard I notice this metallic click when i go to shift hard into second. The metallic click seems to be coming from the front of the car. I also get it if I'm around 3600rpm in and stomp on the pedal in first or second. It also happens when I shift into reverse. What it could be??
It also happens when i floor it and let off and do not change gears mainly in first and second. Sometimes i get a double click also.
At first I thought something could have gotten trapped in the engine bay and it only accelerated to a high enough speed to cause an audible noise but seeing as it been 3 or 4 months I don't think its the problem. It does not seem to effect spend and it does not make the click all the time.
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So I've been getting a whining sound coming from the transmission area. I checked my transmission fluid and it's nice and pink so I checked my transfer case fluid… It came out like black watery gear oil! How bad is this? I am putting synthetic Dex/Merc back in it. It's got me a tiny bit concerned.
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It clunks real bad at random times. Whether I have had the e-brake on or not (sometimes even with it on, so I have not put any load on the locking mechanism in the tranny).
Its a 2014... Does not matter if its inclined ground or flat.
My 08 F350 V10 it replaces never once clunked.
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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I blocked off the hpop discharge tube to test for leaks, shop air. I am plugged into the oil rail drivers side, and keep getting a slight popping sound. The first time I did this it took ten minutes to start, so I replaced the top injector seals. The second time it did this after about four minutes, so I took the oil rail to the local shop and they did the ball tube orings in the rail, now I went to put it back on and it does it almost right away.
Am I just pushing the oil out of the injectors? is this normal or should I have NO air noise period? I guess I am not sure how these injectors work, where does the oil go after it enters the top of the injector? It seems like it's coming more from the top coil area, more so perhaps than under the oil rail.
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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I have a new issue that started last Friday. When I put the truck in gear and let it begin to pull itself, drive or reverse, it has a strange jerking or slipping deal. It doesn't happen every time but when it does you can feel it in the drivetrain. I took it to the shop that did the motor work and they ran a diagnosis(while I watched) on the motor and its turns up nothing. It runs perfect, shifts like it always has, but just has this jerking/slipping thing when I let off the brake and it starts to pull itself.
If I go from brake to throttle its fine. I had the rearend diff worked on to fix the leaky ring and pinion seal and the differential cover sealed at the dealer last month. I searched and don't see anything like what I am experiencing. Could my tranny be giving it up now? It has never been overworked and never overheated. I had the full fluid service done at about 70k and now it has about 130k on it.
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I am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.
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So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
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I'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0L with 76,000 miles on it. And it just started to shift softer then normal under light throttle. The first to second to third shift are softer then normal. And the third to fifth gear shift seems to have a lot of what I would call overlap and some times it feels like it is slipping. Gets better under hard acceleration but not as firm as it used to be. I have always changed the trans fluid and filter every 25,000 miles. Trans temp runs about 150 to 160deg. I checked the fluid today and it's bright red and does not smell bad. And I don't have any coeds. Could it be a solenoid going bad ?
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I have a 2004 F250 I just had a Ford transmission out in it. when the truck is cold it runs great. buy when it gets warm it gets stuck in a gear, even if I drop it into a lower gear. Also, if I cut it off when this happens and i cut it off it will not turn over as if it's not in gear, in park or neutral, but if I let it sit for about 20 minutes it will turn over and run as it should until it warms up again.
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