I have just installed air bags on my 2015 F350 DRW and looking for a location for the air compressor and control unit for the wireless manifold.
View 14 RepliesI am looking to mount a viair tank and compressor on my truck, I was thinking underneath on the frame. Have any pics?
View 14 RepliesTrying to locate the wires for the 4 Auxiliary switches as I want to tie into #4 to the 10 amp switch. This is on a 2015 F350 with a 6.7 engine. Book says the wires are located to the right of the glove box door and just above the passenger side kick panel. Tried this location with no success.
On my 2009 dually the wires were easily located on the drivers side on the firewall in the engine compartment.
I recently picked up a 2005 F350 6.0. I got it cheap with a plugged oil cooler, and went in planning to do studs, gaskets, and all the Ford updates just to have it out of the way. When taking it apart, I quickly noticed that the compressor was damaged. Looks to me like some foreign object(s) entered the turbo, would bounce off the wheel, impact the cover, and repeat.
Engine seemed to run great. Turbo spooled quickly and while I wasn't paying close attention, I'd glance when accelerating and it'd be in the neighborhood of 27 PSI. Engine cranks evenly and starts well, so there's no obvious engine damage. I'll inspect the bores closely with the heads off.
So my main question: Assuming no damage elsewhere, Do I need just a wheel? There is some pitting and high spots on the cover, but could it be carefully worked down with the cover removed? Do I just need to get a wheel and a cover? Or just a whole new turbo? Looking for a budget-friendly option to remedy this properly.
I am on the market for a 2015 Ford F350 with an 11' Royal utility body on the back for my electrical contracting business.
Ford have come back to me and said I need a F450 as I am going with the supercab, the F350 can not handle the 11' utility body.
I have head that the F450 can cost more in Insurance and use more diesel. I contacted my insurance company and they said it wouldn't change to much, this is in CA.
Is there any differences between the F350 and F450 apart from the rear axle and larger brakes. Also if there a major difference in MPG.
I currently have a Ford F150 Limited and love it!
Front Driver's Side
Front Passenger Side
2015 F350 have this issue. I parked the truck in the garage today to do some detail cleaning, and noticed it sagging on the driver's side. Seems like the front coil springs are weak on the driver's side. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in. They are going to look at it tomorrow. Look at the images, it's almost an inch difference. Truck has never been off-road yet, only has 4000 miles. At first I thought it was a low tire but I checked both tires have 70 PSI. Then I thought it was the floor so I measured from the tire to the fender and got the same results.
I have a 2015 F350, sometimes the info center will show what gear I am in and sometimes it won't. Why or what I can do so it shows all the time?
View 6 RepliesMy truck is fairly new. Its a 2015 Ford F350 with 6000 Miles. I live on the east coast in a 4 seasons climate. Its summer the average temp. is in the lower 90's. Recently, I have noticed that my truck has been shuddering and shaking between 5th & 6th gear.
It started when I was changing lanes; I tried to accelerate going about 45mph, and shuddering real hard. It was difficult to maintain my speed on a level surface. It was almost a total loss of power with no trouble codes.
Looking for the right direction to disable or find out how to disable my factory daytime running lights on my 2015 F350 ? i have installed a set of Recon projectors with Haols & LEDs & want to have just the Halos & LEDs as my daytime running lights & have the factory(now the projectors) disabled so that once i turn the switch on the dash to "on" or "auto" my headlights will turn on(the projectors) and the "Halos" & "LEDs" will turn off......
View 7 RepliesI have a '15 Ford F-350 w/ 6.7 - 34k miles. Most of my driving is towing a 30'RV trailer. Today, without any trailer, I was on a local interstate and at around 65 mph on a bumpy stretch of highway the death wobble started. Had it come and go 3 times in a few miles requiring me to slow to about 45 or so to stop it. Never had any such happening prior.
View 14 RepliesDoes the 2015 F350 have the dead pedal on the left drivers side? The one they used to put in to rest your foot on?
View 13 RepliesI just purchased a 50 inch straight light bar it is 5D so just mainly projection focused spot beam, mounting one towards the back end of the roof? what to be used to mount it and how ? Also driving in the snow should not be an issue because it is a projection Focus being but if you have mounted one and driven in the snow.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
View 14 RepliesSo I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
Trying to locate my a/c drain tube on my super duty. Noticed the other day no water draining with the a/c running. Wanna check to make sure the tube is not clogged.
View 14 Replieswas looking for the oil pressure sensor and can't find it got it narrowed to 2 there is a sensor between the the oil filter and fuel filter i think thats the temp sensor and then there's 1 at the say 11 o'clock position behind the the oil filter...both have a 2 pigtail connector.
View 4 RepliesThe clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
View 12 Replies2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
View 14 RepliesCompressor continually clicks off and on..... No cold air.... Checked freon seems to be full.... Big line never gets cold?
View 10 Replies