Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2015 F250 - DEF Low Caution With Full Tank?
Jan 18, 2016
The DEF low caution is on and counting down the miles to go but the DEF tank is full. The caution goes away for a start or two then comes back. She's a 2015 F250 with the 6.7L. I love this truck but its starting to really bug me. I don't know if its related but she's been in the shop four times for warranty repairs to the wiring harness in the past couple months. Apparently there were loose connections in a couple of cannon plugs that the've now bypassed which were causing loss of communication between computers...
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I recently bought a used 2015 F250. When the fuel level reached 1/4 tank it became hard to start. Sometimes up to 6 seconds of cranking to get it to start. I filled it up with fresh diesel and it fired up as soon as I turned the key. A week later the problem returned, this time I was above 1/2 tank. I run the recommended additives, I changed both fuel filters, but it didn't work. I have only had the truck 3 weeks, and it still has a warranty. There are no fault codes, and the truck run great once started. What could be wrong.
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My fuel gauge acted pretty weird today. When I left my house today it was just above half a tank. I was sitting in traffic quite a bit and then looked down and it was below the e. I knew it wasn't empty so I kept going. Got to work. Went for lunch and it said full drove about 5 mins to eat and it went down to half a tank. What's going on? I am thinking of the fuel sender or wiring?
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I was filling my DEF tank (2015 Super Duty 6.7) with 2.5 gal jug a few weeks ago and while I was filling it, the small black rubber air inlet on the container that allows air into the container while filling my truck got sucked into the container and then straight down into my DEF tank before I had a chance to stop the flow. Is there a screen in the DEF fill hose to catch foreign objects like is in the gas/diesel fill hoses?
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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2005 F250 Superduty Crewcab 4x4 6.0L diesel/auto
Wife drove the truck before me and bunched the floor mat under the pedals. I didn't notice the mat issue when I drove the truck today. I accelerated fully after doing a left turn onto a busy highway. The motor spun up hard with the accelerator floored but because of the mats, the pedal stuck all the way down. I was approaching stopped traffic while under full acceleration and I shut the engine off and pulled over to the shoulder all while braking hard ( it was a hell of a ride!). I freed the pedal and restarted the engine.
Now, despite a bit less than 1/2 tank of fuel (I have the 38 gal tank), the dash readout was showing "Low Fuel", the gas gauge was below E and the engine was running like it was running out of fuel. I turned the engine off again and left it off for 1/2 hour before restarting it but the gauge and engine still behaved the same. As I drove to the nearest diesel station, the engine was not running "right". Of course the station I pulled into had 1 diesel pump and the pump was broken.
Because I thought I might actually be out of fuel, an understanding stranger took me to the store to buy some gas cans and then to another station to get 6 gallons of fuel. I got back to the truck and added the 6 gallons of fuel. When I turned the key on, the fuel gauge immediately came up to 1/2 tank. I then drove to that other station and added another 15 gallons of fuel to fill it. This confirmed that I had about 18 gallons of fuel in truck when the "Low fuel" warning occurred.
So, what the heck was going on with the fuel gauge? I am sure the "Low Fuel" warning is tied directly to the gauge but why was the gauge reading low? Is it possible that the "Key-off" while under full acceleration followed by hard braking had confused the ECU? I am just trying to figure out if I have a fuel sender problem or a confused computer that corrected itself. Until this incident, the fuel gauge has never been a problem but the wife messing up the mats has been an issue!
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For the second time in 6 weeks My 2004 F250 Powerstroke has run out of fuel with the gauge showing a 1/4 tank. First time it was just under a 1/4 showing I had it towed to dealer and they told me it had sucked in the filters requiring replace and flush of system. The told me that this happening very often and I would be replacing all of the injectors at my cost. I told them that I didn't want this to happen again and to check out the fuel gauge and sending unit and replace if in doubt. Well they checked it out and found nothing wrong, told me it was accurate and should not be an issue again. Now 6 weeks later on the Friday night before a holiday, it did it again, this time with over a 1/4 tank showing. I really don't want to spend 6 grand replacing injectors and would really like to trust my truck again, getting to the point that I'm nervous at 1/2 tank.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel. The truck came with an auxiliary fuel tank in the bed, but how it works. There is a keyed switch in the cab next to another regular switch, and I have not had the courage to try either of them yet since the whole thing looks like a DIY job. I did look under the truck, and can see what appears to be some sort of solenoid setup.
Just wondering, how it works and if it is safe to operate. I do not see any rollover valve, and want to make sure I do not overfill the tank if I use it.
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I've been MIA for a while. 2006 F250 just hit 83k miles. My coolant must be puking out of the degas tank. White residue all over degas and drivers side engine bay. I had my mechanic buddy pressure test coolant system for several hours and he said there weren't any leaks. He told me to replace the degas cap for now. Didn't solve the problem. Temps have always been fine. Never found drops or a puddle of coolant. Even when the truck has sat overnight for over 8 hours, there is still a bunch of pressure built up when cap is removed.
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I tried the methods that I could find on youtube but with no luck.... I do not have the option to change the settings in the message center either...
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I've got a stock '15 F250 6.7 w/ the Diesel Site FF67 fuel/water separator and a 50gal Titan Tank. I installed the filter + tank at the same time around 2 months ago; A few weeks ago, I started noticing an odd buzzing/whirring/gurgling noise (both while the truck was running, and while the fuel pump spins up right after turning the key on). I made a quick video of it this morning:
Ford F250 6.7 w/ Diesel site filter DFCM buzzing/whining - YouTube
I thought maybe it was a filter related problem (I got some little black plastic bits in the filter after installing the Titan Tank, despite my best efforts to clean it out thoroughly before installing) - so earlier this week, I replaced both stock fuel filters, and both filters in the DS filter. Didn't seem to affect the noise from the DFCM at all.
I guess my question is - does it sound like this is sucking in air? I've never found any leaking fuel (even after a 3000mi drive from TX to VA and back), and the truck has never complained about low fuel pressure as I've read that some others have run into. But I don't remember the DFCM/low pressure pump being this loud before I installed the new parts.
I spoke to the folks at DieselSite a day or two ago (those guys are great), and they mentioned that sometimes the Ford quick-release fittings work themselves a little loose from the fuel hose during the filter install, and that putting a hose-clamp around the hose+quick release fitting may solve this; I ordered from clamps from McMaster Carr that arrived today, so I may give that a try tomorrow just to see if it changes anything.
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I bought my 2015 F250 last November, and this spring my check engine light comes on with the message exhaust system fluid fault with the anoyying speed limitation. Bring the truck back to the dealer and they just say add def fluid, so I just have them do it. 2 weeks later the message comes back, bring it back to the dealer and they tell me it "needs reprograming" they do the work, light goes off. two weeks later light comes on again. Dealer puts in new exhaust sensors and reprograms the truck.
This fix lasts a few months in the mean time the truck shutters really bad under regeneration mode. Talk to dealer they claim its normal. Finally this week the light comes back on again. Bring the truck to the dealer and Ford keeps telling them that it only needs reprograming but that doesn't fix the problem. The dealer wants to replace the computer but ford isn't letting them do it (the truck is still under warranty) . I am starting to get pretty mad when I went out and bout a 65k truck not to have these problems.
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Our temps have hit into the -18 to -25 Celsius... I have noticed that on 3 different occasions now that the truck feels like its locked in 4wd when I reverse out of my drive way.My Truck is an F250 Crewcab with 4800 miles
This all started with the cold weather. At first I thought my 2 yr old was turning switches on while he was up front one time, but it happended again the following morning taking my 5yr old to school...
I back up up about 20 feet and then make a fairly sharp 90 degree turn and then all the way down the driveway to the street...its really noticeably on the 90 degree turn..once I turn to go forward it still seems jerky...same as having 4wd engaged on dry surface while turning..
After a little bit of driving it seems to go away...also keep in my mind that the 4wd switch has never been touched at anytime at all...we have a lightly snow packed driveway but my traction is still fine to where 2 wd is all that's needed
Could it be something in the rear diff "catching and releasing" for lack of a better term ?
Locker issues, clutchpacks...?
As I am typing I also remembered making a right hand turn on dry pavement and it felt like the rear end slipped a bit and then caught again, much the same way it would fell as if you hat one tire on a small patch of ice and slipped as ya took off and then caught as it hit the dry pavement...
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It's on my 2015 f-250....dont know if this is a new thing ..... I know my 2011 f-350 didn't have it..... Really hardly notice its working ....it slightly slows me down when in tow/haul mode while braking......
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2015 F250 with 6r140 Transmission. I have 13 K miles on my truck. While pulling my Travel trailer up a hill the transmission kicks down thru the gears, which is fine, but as I crest the hill and in 2nd gear, the engine begins to rev up and the speed increases, the transmission will not automatically go into 3rd gear. I have tried to let up on the gas pedal, but it remains stuck in 2nd gear. I have to shift to manual and then put it in 3rd gear. Then it shifts up as it should. I have tried with the transmission in "TOW' and not in "TOW". I have even tried it in "Cruise Control". Ford dealership ran tests but could find no problem. However it was road tested without the trailer.
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I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
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My 2015 2.4L Hyundai Sonata randomly started overheating today. The coolant tank is full and it never did this before. The temperature gauge goes up and the information display says car has overheated.
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What it is or why there is a three inch pull handle hanging down on the bottom of the Diesel Tank on my niece new 2012 F350??? It is sitting hanging there begging to be snagged and ripped off the bottom of the tank!!!!! I'm at least going to Gorilla Tape it up to the bottom of the Tank.
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My truck gave me the message that "DEF under 1/2 full", so since we are on the road, I stopped by a dealer and picked up 5 gallons of motorcraft DEF. I did not want to get the countdown message in an unfamiliar area and have to look for it. While going out site-seeing, I forgot and left it in the back seat of the truck for about 8 hours in the heat of the day. I know you are supposed to store it under 86 degrees or so. Now, did I just ruin 5 unopened gallons or is it still safe to use?
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I have a lariat (auto climate control) and I just finished reassembling the engine and I noticed that the AC blower goes on full whenever you turn the key on.
According to the AC panel it seems to be off. Where should I start looking? AC is very important here... its already regularly over 100 degrees here.
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I have a 2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0L Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 signal rear wheels Ford tow package. After market options Bully dog power put and outlook controller.
Next the problems When they started and order pleas stay with me.
I purchased a goose neck horse trailer and after hooking it up, plugin in the tight and break round plug I found that the trailer lights did not work. I inspected the plug on my truck I found that the wires were cut next to the plug so I purchased a after market plug and swapped the two out and the lights worked. Excepted the right turn signal did not work.
I thought I was good and then the problems started during the six hour trip home at night my turn lights and break lights ceased to work on my truck and trailer the running lights and head lights work on both. After I returned home I looked for shorts and bad fuses I never found any.
After that I started to accumulate problems.
The Outlook controller would occasionally loose signal and turn off and on and the door ajar is on all the time. After that the I had the oil filter fail and pieces of it went through the IPR screen causing the IPR to fail I know its unrelated but it is. After having a no start condition and replacing the IPR all my gauges would go peg to peg when trying to start. I put a long hard charge on the batteries and got them to a full charge of 12.6CV and had no problem starting any more. I did find at the time I hooked up the charger is that one of the batteries blew off one of the cell covers.
But what happened next.
The truck lost full electrical systems as in the 4x4 switch quit working, the power locks quit working, door chimes quit, the transmission would not shift into overdrive and the tow light flash and now the Outlook Controller flashes on and off so bad I can hardly get the codes off it. The auto headlight quit.
Most of the things I could reset by un plugging fuses and relays to get them to work.
OK the now, I changed the batteries today with new ones and found out the old ones were only at 75% and that fixed some of the problems. The problems I still have is the transmission, turn signals, break lights and Outlook flashing on and off. By the way the Outlook is plugged in the systems plug under the dash.
These are my codes
P0360 ignition coil j primary (I do not know what this is or where I can find it.)
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient (Is this the EGR cooler I did a EGR Delete by puting freeze plugs in both ends)
P0603 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error ( I have no clue about this, this started when I lost the IPR durring all that cranking.)
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