Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2014 - LED Light Bar Choice Rigid?
Dec 13, 2015
Looking to add a light bar and possibly replace my fog lights with LED's. I really like the Rough Country kit with 2 30" single row led bars that comes with a mounting kit to fit in the top and bottom of the grill. Also looking at the Ridgid 20" E series dual row or the curved RDS model (not sure there is a mounting bracket for the curved model like there is for the straight bar for in between the tow hooks). I can buy the 2 30" light bar kit plus the a 20" bar from Rough Country for almost the price of the Ridgid but want the best product for my truck. I have a 2014 F350 King Ranch.
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I have 51k on my 2014 Platinum F-350 and the little red battery light come on. I take it in and they tell me that it is going to be a little over $1,300.00 to replace my alternator. I have had the truck since May 30, 2014 and the alternator has gone bad. I am regretting trading in my 1999 F-350 with over 365 k on it. Never had an electrical problem besides replacing the batteries every 4 years or so. Is this a common problem on these new trucks?
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My 2014 350 DRW has a battery problem......If it sets for a couple hours, it won't start. With a jump from a very small battery box, it starts right up. I charged it last week for 4 hours and still when in OKC it would need to be jumped at each restart. Do I have one of the batteries going bad.....
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2014 F350 6.7... The truck has only 30000 miles on it. I was driving uphill and the engine just quit, but fired up right away after with engine check. On idling run at 500-700 rpm , no power, clicking noise , sometimes shaking. Took to the closest dealer right away, they don't know what is it, but they want to rake of the engine . This truck is not under any warranty. This is my first diesel truck, didn't expect anything like this....
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Curious how it went and what additional hardware was needed.
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Noticed change in power after changing the fuel filters on 6.7 .... Seems like it has a fuel restriction at times maybe even air somewhere in the line. Thought I felt the truck hesitate after hitting the gas and Cavitating when I hit the gas petal. Both new filters are motorcraft parts. I did follow the procedure after installing filters by turning the key on 6 times waiting 30 seconds in between. Could it be a problem with the fuel pump. I should say I didn't have this until I changed the primary filter.
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I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
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On my 2011 the gauges would cycle when I turned the key on... My 2014 doesn't... Is there something wrong or has Ford changed the sequence? ...
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I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
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I just bought a new 2014 f250.
He says since he has purchased the truck the TPS sensor would occasionally go off saying there is issues with the tires. Tires are fine yet the light chimes on after being reset shortly. Been at the dealer for a week and they haven't really touched it I was wondering if there is any know issues.
Also my dad had the truck in 4x4 and when he puts the truck in park it made it a loud clunking noise. Ford is said there heavy duty line was full so they didn't look at that ethier. He needs the truck for the weekend so he is picking it up tomorrow, he will return it when he can but does this sound familiar as well?
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I'm really struggling to get this sucker off my 2014 6.7 F350
it says in the ford manual to lift the plastic tabs then pull off, I did that easily with 3 on each side, but the end plug on each side (the one closest to the windshield) does not seem to have a liftable tab (it looks different to the others as its at the end of the cable)
I've almost broken it but not quite, its over $300 for new harness, ouch
I do have the odd little hook tool they sell for this, it worked with the other 3 for sure, but I've spent ages on the 4th on each side and cannot budge either of them
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I have a 2014 F250 CCSB that I bought new, I now have 41,000 mi on the truck. Earlier this year it had the P207F code come up and subsequently the computer derated the power to idle. I was able to get it to the dealership and they could not figure out why the truck had this code come up, it is an exhaust fluid CEL. They went through a sequence of steps to include holding the RPMs at 1800 and the 2500 for about 5-10 minutes until one of the EGT sensors hit a certain temp, then the code cleared from the computer. They gave me the truck back and told me it would likely happen again.
Over the summer I had this happen twice more, however these times, I cleared the code, ran the truck at 1800 rpm, and the code cleared, all would be ok for a while.
Then about 1.5 weeks ago the truck had both of the mentioned codes pop up the same day, first was the P04DB, I cleared it. Then the P207F came up, it would not clear. I dropped it off at the dealership. They were initially quite responsive, and again told me that they could not find a problem with the truck from a mechanical standpoint. However, they could not get the light to clear and the truck was stuck at idle. When they were able to get the light to clear it would come back on in 10 minutes, the idle message has never gone away.
Now it has been at the dealership for 1.5 weeks, I am having issues getting them to even give me an update on the status of the truck and what they plan to do to fix it. They did provide me with a loaner, for which I am grateful to not have to rent a car. However, these are expensive trucks, and I need it for my farm.
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2014 F250 Diesel... I got the msg saying 50 miles until speed limited to 50 mph. None of the earlier warnings re adding def. check def on computer and it said it was ok. I even added def and it only took a small amount until it overflowed. It was more than 1/2 full. The error message did not reset. I drove it around for several miles and it still would not reset. Having it services as we speak, and the tech is still having difficulty running down the cause. He has done a regen,and reset the computer and etc and still has not resolved the issue..
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Ok haven't been on here in a LONG time. Sold my '12 and bought a DRW '14 F350 to tow our fifth wheel. Just got back from a 775 mile round trip pulling our fifth wheel. My dad noticed my passenger front tire was going bald on the outside. I said yeah it was pulling to the right and thought my tire was low but when I checked it was the right psi.
Turning to the left I was starting to get a grinding type noise. If I rolled my passenger window down you could here something just grinding away but when you straightened out nothing.
So I took it into the dealer and they tell me the outside tire wear is normal. I said it has 22,000 miles and the passenger tire will be bald on the outside in 4,000 more miles or less. Said they can't hear any noise, yet my wife can hear it, kids can hear it and people outside the truck can.
It's not normal for the passenger or drivers tire for that matter to go bald in less than 25,000 miles? Tires have always been kept to proper psi, I've towed only about 5,000 miles total with it. They are also taking the worthless rancho rebranded shocks off and going with bilstiens. I should have replaced them 10,000 miles ago. They are horrible shocks.
It really torques me that they have it for a week and can't find anything wrong. When turning to the left it's almost like bump steer in 4wd just not quite as bad but with also a grinding sound that you can hear inside the cab and can feel it in the floor board. Nothing evident but just looking under the truck.
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We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
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I connect the batteries and the overhead lights don't out, plus the theft light is blinking. Bad door switch maybe? I don't have the original Ford key
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The thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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So this morning, I stopped for fuel. My low fuel light had come on yesterday, so I planned on filling it up this morning. Swung through the local Safeway (my usual fill-up haunt) and threw 25 gallons of diesel into my Excursion. Truck started up right away, like always, pulled around in the parking lot, pulled into traffic, then got stopped at a red light. I noticed a slight unevenness in the idle for a couple of seconds, then the light turned green. Pulled out, truck accelerated a bit more labored than usual, and in my passenger's mirror, I looked back and saw some light greyish blue smoke.
The smoke progressively got heavier, power diminished, and I was no longer able to maintain speed with traffic. I pulled off onto a side road, shut the truck down, and scanned for pending codes. Nothing. So I hoped that it was just a gremlin, started the truck again, got tons of the same smoke, really rough, super clattery idle, and the engine wouldn't even accelerate in park. No hint of boost, nothing. So I turned the truck off, called a tow truck, and had her flat bed hauled home.
Background on the truck, roughly 150K miles, changed the fuel filters not too long ago (less than 7K on them), recent-ish oil change, but I was planning one for later this month. Truck is all but stock, only an aftermarket cold side intercooler tube. I recently replaced my EGR valve, less than a year ago, because it was stuck partially open, replaced it and the truck ran great after that.
I've been seeing some scary writeups for similar things, stuff involving cracked pistons, bad rings, engine teardowns, new engines required, things like that. For me, it just seems like a ridiculously convenient coincidence that the problem would happen immediately after refueling the truck. At this point, I'm planning on replacing both fuel filters and doing an oil change as preventive maintenance and as the easiest possible fix, but what else should I be looking at? Some posts suggest FICM, some suggest ICP sensor, some are saying my injectors may be shot.
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My low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
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i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
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